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Fashion


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Fashion


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Time of the Season


Spring forward with an awakening and a wardrobe refresh – from fur to florals – courtesy of these five fashion houses

Time of the Season


Spring forward with an awakening and a wardrobe refresh – from fur to florals – courtesy of these five fashion houses

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Time of the Season

October 27, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

 

Though it may feel like we’re just entering the hibernation period, the fashion world never sleeps. Enter the spring 2018 collections from Marni, Simonetta Ravizza, Fendi, Simone Rocha and Giambattista Valli, in which material and colour both play key roles, while contemporary romantic motifs are giving us glimpses of what’s to come.

The combination of light and heavy materials is a theme for spring – silk, knit, wool, leather, and especially fur – that served as the luxurious drawing board for Marni, Simonetta Ravizza and Fendi. A modern colour palette prevails, too, from soft rosy touches (such as Giambattista Valli’s pastel pink) to strong, luscious hues that emphasise contrast. And let’s not forget the garden fairies and flowers in the ultimate toast to spring. Floral motifs prevailed, especially at Simone Rocha, where the elegantly quirky silhouettes are inspiring a rethink of romanticism.

Cheerful, elegant, sumptuous – if these collections aren’t an indicator of good fortune to come next year, at the very least they’ll make for an especially beautiful spring.

 
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Fendi

Keywords: Italian futurism ◆ stripes and checks  ◆ technical fur

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Giambattista Valli

Keywords: Ode to spring ◆ translucent ruffles ◆ dreamy meets utilitarian


 
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Simone Rocha

Keywords: Garden fairy-inspired ◆ washed silk ◆ collapsing frills ◆ romanticism


 
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Simonetta Ravizza

Keywords: Playful furs ◆ fire-red leather ◆ the Furrissima bag


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Marni

Keywords: English garden ◆ furry pillow clutch ◆ large silhouettes

Images: Monica Feudi (Simonetta Ravizza); Fendi; Giovanni Giannoni (Marni); Simone Rocha; Giambattista Valli

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Ever Yves


Two new museums celebrate the astonishing, pioneering talent of designer Yves Saint Laurent

Ever Yves


Two new museums celebrate the astonishing, pioneering talent of designer Yves Saint Laurent

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Ever Yves

September 29, 2017 / by Sonia Altshuler

Image above: At the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech

 

At the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech

At the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech

“I want to give haute couture a kind of wink, a sense of humour – to introduce the whole sense of freedom one sees in the street into high fashion; to give couture the same provocative and arrogant look as punk – but of course with luxury and dignity and style.” So said fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent in 1983 on the eve of his exhibition at the Costume Institute of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, its first-ever show devoted to a living designer. 

Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, who also curated the show, wrote the following for the introduction: “For 26 years, Yves Saint Laurent has kept women’s clothes on the same high level. He is followed across the oceans of the world by women who look young, live young and are young no matter what their age… Half of the time he is inspired by the street, and half of the time the street gets its style from Yves Saint Laurent. His vehicle to the street is pret-a-porter – but behind it all, there are the superb designs of his couture workroom.” 

His influence on 20th-century fashion and beyond may be even greater than the peers he worked alongside – including Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy and Gabrielle Chanel – and his clothes and themes more referenced and appropriated by high and low culture alike. Although she died in 1971, Chanel, never one for modesty, had even pronounced him her spiritual heir. 

What makes Saint Laurent’s collection of work so distinct is that none of his predecessors and peers, despite their
luminous names, kept their original clothes in the same way. While other houses buy their dresses back from clients to build their collections, in the case of Yves Saint Laurent, what went down the catwalk was what got kept. His longtime partner in business and romance, Pierre Bergé, who died earlier this month, told Vogue that one day, the designer said to him: “I adore that dress; we must keep it.” And so they did. 

Nearly 55 years since the launch of his eponymous brand in 1961, two new Yves Saint Laurent museums are set to open. One opens on October 19 in Marrakech (appropriately enough, on Rue Yves Saint Laurent) and the other in Paris at 5 Avenue Marceau. Both will exhibit a selection from the Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent of more than 5,000 pieces of haute couture and 15,000 haute couture accessories, along with an array of sketches, drawings, photographs and other ephemera. 

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Yves Saint Laurent poses with the palms

Yves Saint Laurent poses with the palms

As befits such a vast collection, the museum in Marrakech occupies a 43,000sqft space, with a 4,300sqft permanent exhibition space designed by Christophe Martin. The building is a stone’s throw away from the Jardin Majorelle, which was bought by Saint Laurent and Bergé in 1980. 

The Marrakech museum was designed by Studio KO, an architectural firm established by Olivier Marty and Karl Fournier, who have realised numerous projects in Morocco, Europe and the United States. While leafing through the couturier’s archives, they were struck by curves running alongside straight lines, and by the succession of delicate and bold forms that characterised the designer’s work. The facade of the building appears as an intersection of cubes with a lace-like covering of bricks, creating patterns that recall the weft and warp of fabric. As with the lining of a couture jacket, the interior is radically different: velvety, smooth and radiant.

According to Studio KO: “The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech combines two worlds that we are very familiar with and that are dear to our hearts: fashion and Morocco. Since the founding of our architectural firm, we have worked in this country that so inspired Yves Saint Laurent. It is with great joy that we have worked on this ambitious project, and contributed to the history and prestige of the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century.” 

An original Yves Saint Laurent drawing for the famed Le Smoking tuxedo suit (autumn/winter 1966)

An original Yves Saint Laurent drawing for the famed Le Smoking tuxedo suit (autumn/winter 1966)

Haute couture dress from the Mondrian collection (autumn/winter 1965)

Haute couture dress from the Mondrian collection (autumn/winter 1965)

To see the museum is to witness a veritable greatest-hits collection – not just of the Yves Saint Laurent costume inventory, but of the fashion silhouette of the second half of the 20th century. It’s one that kept women, no matter their age, looking young. The designer won the French Wool Board competition in 1954 with a black crêpe cocktail dress he designed in the Hubert de Givenchy workshop. Three years later, at 21, he took the reins of Christian Dior after the designer’s death in 1957, becoming the youngest couturier in the world to run a fashion house. His first collection was 1958’s Trapeze, for which he won a Neiman Marcus Award for Fashion, and the year marked his first meeting with Bergé, who would become both his lover and his manager. 

At Yves Saint Laurent, the hits were unrelenting. The designer popularised the ready-to-wear label; his famous tuxedo suit for women, Le Smoking; the pea coat; the safari jacket; and perhaps most famously and most imitated of all, the Mondrian dress. As much a fashion designer, he was an artist and harnessed art for his purpose, using Van Gogh’s Sunflowers and Irises for another costume and often citing references to Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Jean Cocteau and Andy Warhol in his work. 

He was groundbreaking, too, as the first to design an haute couture black leather jacket, and even had a nude photograph of himself published for the launch of his first perfume for men, Pour Homme. Saint Laurent invoked male dress codes and appropriated them for his womenswear, thus investing women with greater social power while preserving their femininity. Says Bergé of that contribution: “If Chanel gave women their freedom, it was Saint Laurent who empowered them.” And made them feel forever young.

TIMELINE OF A LIFETIME

1936: Born in Oran, Algeria

1954: Hired by Christian Dior as his studio assistant

1957: Dior dies; replaces him and becomes, at age 21, the youngest couturier in the world

1958: Meets longtime romantic partner Pierre Bergé

1960: Presents first haute couture leather jacket on the catwalk; drafted for military service and replaced at Dior by Marc Bohan

1961: Sets up own couture house with Bergé

1962: First Yves Saint Laurent fashion show at 30 Bis Rue Spontini; first pea jacket

1964: First perfume: Y

1965: Tribute to Mondrian collection

1966: Pop Art collection; first tuxedo; first see-through garments (the “nude look”); discovers Marrakech, Morocco with Bergé and buys Dar el Hanch (House of the Serpent) in the Medina; opens first Rive Gauche boutique at 21 Rue de Tournon

1967: African collection; publishes La Vilaine Lulu (“Naughty Lulu”); dresses Catherine Deneuve for Luis Buñuel’s film Belle de Jour

1968: First safari suit; first jumpsuit

1971: Launches Rive Gauche perfume for women; poses nude for photographer Jeanloup Sieff to promote Pour Homme, his first eau de toilette for men

1974: The fashion house moves to 5 Avenue Marceau

1977: Chinese Girls collection

1982: Receives the International Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America

1983: Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Creation opens at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, curated by Diana Vreeland

1985: Retrospective at the National Art Gallery in Beijing

1988: Creates embroidered jackets based on Van Gogh’s Sunflowers and Irises

1993: With Bergé, sells the Yves Saint Laurent Group to Elf Sanofi, but the couple retain ownership of the couture house

1998: Stops designing ready-to-wear collections for Rive Gauche; Alber Elbaz named artistic director of ready-to-wear for women and Hedi Slimane for men

1999: Elf Sanofi sells the Yves Saint Laurent Group to the Pinault-Printemps-Redoute Group, but is still managed by Bergé and Saint Laurent; Tom Ford replaces Elbaz and Slimane as artistic director of ready-to-wear

2002: Bids farewell to couture; the fashion house closes; the Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent is recognised as a non-profit organisation

2008: Dies in his Paris home at the age of 71

Images: Fondation Jardin Majorelle © Nicolas Matheus (Marrakech museum façade); © Pierre Bergé (Yves Saint Laurent portrait); © Christophe Martin Architectes (Marrakech museum interior shot); © Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (drawing); © Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent, Paris / Alexandre Guirkinger (Mondrian dress);

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Sartorial Souls


Three New York-based men’s fashion brands bring metro-sexy back for the new season

Sartorial Souls


Three New York-based men’s fashion brands bring metro-sexy back for the new season

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Sartorial Souls

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

The definition of traditional masculinity has been quite narrow, but the metrosexual movement of the early 2000s changed perceptions about what it is to be a fashionable man. For many, it proved a joy to let their free souls roam and enjoy being a bel homme in the urban jungle. Proving that it’s not just a distant memory, New York-based men’s fashion brands Palmiers du Mal, Willy Chavarria and Bode have brought metrosexual-inspired looks back to the runway for the new season. Art, drama and wanderlust all play significant roles in the collections, which focus on practical casual wear and comfort through the use of luxurious, skin-friendly fabrics. Here’s a toast to those guys who just won’t settle for mediocrity.

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Willy Chavarria

Keywords: Tracksuit with satin inlay ◆ leather biker jacket ◆ workwear jumpsuit ◆ back to the classics

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Bode

Keywords: Wool shirt-jacket ◆ French linen on cotton Quaker lace ◆ floral-printed sleep shirts


 
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Palmiers du Mal

Keywords: Ultra-luxe loungewear ◆ pink velvet ◆ wild-printed shawls ◆ South African-inspired tribal motifs

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Accessory-Mad Men


Guys, don’t delay – put some of the coolest rings and cufflinks on your fingers and wrists today

Accessory-Mad Men


Guys, don’t delay – put some of the coolest rings and cufflinks on your fingers and wrists today

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Accessory-Mad Men 

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Throughout history, ornamental objects for men have often served as a means of expressing status and power. Today, the definition of contemporary men’s jewellery has broadened, granting quite a bit more freedom to make a distinctive personal statement.

British luxury jewellery designer Stephen Webster has been in the business for more than 35 years; he received the prestigious De Beers accreditation in 1982. Webster’s collections are crafted in an array of colours and from a variety of precious materials, including white gold, sterling silver, black rhodium, diamond and pigmented enamel. His design concept – not for the faint-hearted, he says – puts the focus on primitive masculinity, with wild motifs such as beasts and their body parts, deadly thorns, mythological ravens and sophisticated geometric shapes that resemble ancient totems.

Jan Leslie has taken a radically different approach; the American designer is well known for her collection of cufflinks and tuxedo studs. Playful, fun and light-hearted, her pieces are aimed at unlocking the child-like wonders of men’s hearts. She opts for bright colours and unconventional motifs, with meticulously crafted details on small accessories made of precious materials such as sterling silver and hand-painted enamel. Check out the cobalt blue owl lapel pin with one removable winking eye, her take on the good-fortune maneki neko (the famed “welcoming cat” seen at the entrance to many stores) with a bobblehead, and the angel-and-devil monkey cufflink combo with movable arms and legs – matching tuxedo studs are also available to achieve that formal yet fun look.

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Ghoulish Picks


It’s the one date on the calendar when your style is allowed to be a frightful sight: October 31

Ghoulish Picks


It’s the one date on the calendar when your style is allowed to be a frightful sight: October 31

Lifestyle > Fashion




 

Ghoulish Picks

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

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Eco, Chic


An interview with 2017 EcoChic Design Award winners – and a call for sustainable fashion

Eco, Chic


An interview with 2017 EcoChic Design Award winners – and a call for sustainable fashion

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Eco, Chic

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Founded in Hong Kong by former dentist Christina Dean in 2007, Redress claims to be Asia’s first environmental NGO focused on the fashion industry. The EcoChic Design Award is a major part of what Redress does. Initiated in 2011, the award stages a sustainable fashion design competition that invites emerging fashion designers from all around the world to gather in Hong Kong with a single theme in mind – creating mainstream clothing with minimal textile waste.

Here is an interview with this year’s first-prize winner Kate Morris (UK) and runner-up Lia Kassif (Israel) on the competition, what they like most about Hong Kong and their next steps. 

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Kate Morris, EcoChic Design Award 2017 first-prize winner

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Having received the prize, what has this competition brought you?

This competition really has been the biggest adventure I’ve ever been on. Creating my collection transformed my view of what upcycling can achieve. The week of the grand finals broadened my mindset and horizons, along with meeting so many fantastic people. Winning first prize has bought me confidence, exposure and the valuable opportunity to work and learn with influential platform brand BYT, which will enable me to make a change within the industry.

Three words to describe your collection.

Conscious, cruelty-free and cheerful.

What’s your view on sustainability in fashion?

The planet simply does not have enough resources to carry on producing clothing at this rate. We have reached a critical point and my motivation to design fashion has been led by my desire to be a part of changing this. I believe sustainable fashion is possible if all areas of the supply chain work together, led by the designer, to make more informed choices. I do not believe that this leads to limitations; I consider this an opportunity to generate unexpected designs through a story that the consumer can connect with. 

How do you like Hong Kong? What things inspire you in the city?

I totally fell in love with Hong Kong. I love the juxtaposition of urban and nature. You can visit the Buddhist temple on Lantau Island in the day, then go for dinner in a high-rise building in the city in the evening. The people of Hong Kong love clothes and appreciate all sorts of fashion design. 

What’s your next step?

After returning to Hong Kong to join the team to create an upcycled capsule collection for BYT, I hope to continue to contribute to changing attitudes within the fashion industry. My long-term goal is to launch my own knitwear brand called Crop, made from sustainable plant fibres.


Lia Kassif, EcoChic Design Award 2017 second-prize winner

Having received the prize, what has this competition brought you?

The competition and all the activities that we, the finalists, went through as part of the grand final week, exposed me even more to the major importance of sustainability. Reconstructing old clothes with their own history and giving them new life, concept, meaning, style and pleasure have been a real challenge for me. I had the chance to meet incredible and talented people from all around the world, and it was great to find out that we share the same passion. As for winning, I’m so grateful and happy to work with Orsola de Castro and to design garments for indie star Ellen Loo to wear.

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Three words to describe your collection.

Unique, wearable and sustainable.

What’s your view on sustainability in fashion?

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. That’s why I believe that sustainability is the most significant subject for the industry today – one that should be enhanced right now. We must change our habits and our attitudes in the industry in order to save the planet for us and the next generations.

How do you like Hong Kong? What things inspire you in the city?

I really liked Hong Kong. The combination of Western and Eastern culture brings a lot of magic and inspiration to the streets. I’ve never been in a city that has such an energy and special vibes. The beautiful nature that sits just behind the skyscrapers, the authentic markets next to luxury shopping centres and all those nice people in the streets makes Hong Kong so unique and special.

What’s your next step?

I’m looking forward to beginning my mentorship with Orsola de Castro and starting work on my new sustainable brand. I hope I will get the chance to collaborate with other designers to find a way to reduce the damage of the fashion industry – and still produce beautiful garments that make people feel and look good.

© 2017 Redress Limited

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Victoria’s Secret Heading to Shanghai this November


Pink and glamorous, it’s VS’s debut show in China / XOXO

Victoria’s Secret Heading to Shanghai this November


Pink and glamorous, it’s VS’s debut show in China / XOXO

Lifestyle > Fashion




Victoria’s Secret Heading to Shanghai this November

September 14, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

On November 28, Victoria’s Secret – the glamorous American lingerie giant – is headed to Shanghai for its first annual show in Asia.

An all-star crew of 14 “Victoria’s Secret Angels” will perform this year, including veterans Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio, Candice Swanepoel and Lily Aldridge, as well as a few new faces. According to the brand, the list of Chinese models revealed so far includes returning favourites Liu Wen and He Sui, as well as first-timers Xie Xin and Parisian-born Estelle Chen. 

Directed by the epic Hamish Hamilton, a long-time Victoria’s Secret fashion show director (whose other career highlights include the London 2012 Olympic Games’ opening and closing ceremonies, the Academy Awards and numerous Super Bowl halftime shows), the entertaining grand show will be broadcast in more than 190 countries.

More details are forthcoming. Stay tuned to the brand’s official social media channels for updates about the event – including “pink-carpet” interviews, model profiles, behind-the-scenes photos and surprising musical performances.

Victoria’s Secret  

Facebook:    http://www.facebook.com/victoriassecret
Weibo: @VictoriasSecret维多利亚的秘密
WeChat:VictoriasSecret (WeChat ID: VS_Official)

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I.T x Kris Wu/Share the Luv...


I.T x Kris Wu/Share the Luv...


Lifestyle > Fashion




I.T x Kris Wu/Share the Luv...

August 21, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

 

Megastar entertainer Kris Wu becomes I.T group’s first ambassador, appearing in a stylish new fashion campaign for the multi-brand retailer’s in-house UNDER GARDEN brand. The actor, singer and music producer shows his playfulness by mixing a hip-hop vibe and vintage street style for the video, which features nostalgic cars, retro tv’s / radios and vibrant neon lights - with phrases like “Hate it or Luv”, “Run this Town” and “Stay Strong”. Go share the Luv...

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All Grown Up


Alexa Chung began her career as a teenage model. She’s now 33, with a brand of her own and numerous other claims to fame – but her most prestigious title remains “It girl”

All Grown Up


Alexa Chung began her career as a teenage model. She’s now 33, with a brand of her own and numerous other claims to fame – but her most prestigious title remains “It girl”

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

All Grown Up 

August 25, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

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The daughter of a Chinese-British graphic designer and a British housewife, the 174cm Alexa Chung was “discovered” when she was 14 by a London-based modelling agency. The experience that many girls her age dreamed of, however, didn’t sit well with the teenager. According to Chung, her parents were unsupportive of her taking up modelling as a profession, she was asked to pose semi-naked when it was unnecessary and she was also deeply affected by criticism about her appearance.

Chung’s career took off when she started to appear in a slew of music videos and TV shows in 2006. Her playful personality, witty dialogue and spontaneous reactions on camera earned her celebrity status. She debuted her own US show on MTV in 2009 – a daily, live talk show called It’s On with Alexa Chung – followed by the show Gonzo with Alexa Chung on UK screens a year later. 

Her personal style brought her as much attention as her TV appearances and she was hounded by photographers for street snaps. She loves to mix and match styles, and she often wears masculine pieces that exude a touch of femininity, such as an oversized suit combined with a shiny pair of Mary Janes. Her love of flats, as well as her iconic play-it-cool gesture – crossing one foot over the other in front of the cameras – made more and more people call her “It girl”, a term originally used to describe beautiful young women who don’t flaunt their sexuality. 

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Chung frequently appeared on the best-dressed lists, on magazine covers and in the front row of fashion shows. In 2009, when she was just 25, British handbag brand Mulberry created the Alexa satchel, inspired by her, and the bag soon became the brand’s most sought-after. She received a string of acclaim and recognition from industry leaders; Anna Wintour called her “a phenomenon” and The New York Times dubbed her “the Kate Moss of the new generation” – she even beat out Moss for Vogue’s best-dressed title in 2009.

From 2011 to 2013, Chung took home the British Fashion Council’s British Style Award three consecutive times; the public-voted award “recognises an individual who embodies the spirit of British fashion.” The year she turned 30, she became the face of Parisian fashion maison Longchamp, landed one of her largest campaigns with L’Oréal and released her first book, It, which openly discusses the formation of her style. 

After numerous co-branding projects with the likes of AG Jeans and Madewell, she officially became a fashion designer with the launch of Alexachung, backed by London-based private equity investor Peter Dubens. At the show for her debut collection this May in North London, Chung opted for a glittering green gown. Some of the familiar styles that she likes to wear were spotted throughout the collection, such as Mary Janes, the workwear jacket, Peter Pan collars and Asian inspiration galore. All the pieces are free of fur, Angora hair and exotic skins.

“Age had something to do with it – a restlessness in New York, looking for stability,” she explained in an interview with Vogue after the show. “I’m young enough and excited enough to start something new, but old enough to have learned a bit. And confident enough to think I could pull it off.” Clearly, the It girl has grown up.

Images: Instagram: @alexachung

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Style on a Budget


Welcome to our HK$5,000 fashion challenge! These four looks will maximise your style without breaking the bank

Style on a Budget


Welcome to our HK$5,000 fashion challenge! These four looks will maximise your style without breaking the bank

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Style on a Budget

August 25, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Images: Courtesy of respective brands

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Kimono Dreams


It’s a constant inspiration for fashion designers: the kimono. From the traditional Japanese garment to the effortlessly chic cool-girl pyjamas of today, wearing a kimono proves that, with its flowing silhouette and V-neckline, you’ve got the key to femininity

Kimono Dreams


It’s a constant inspiration for fashion designers: the kimono. From the traditional Japanese garment to the effortlessly chic cool-girl pyjamas of today, wearing a kimono proves that, with its flowing silhouette and V-neckline, you’ve got the key to femininity

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Kimono Dreams

August 25, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Images: Wikimedia Commons: Greg/Creative Commons (Maiko Mamesome from Gion Koubu hanamachi dressed in kimono, Japan); Patrick Kovarik/AFP (James Tissot "La Japonaise au Bain"); Ron Sachs/DPA (Blake Lively/Ryan Reynolds); Borgo de Nor; Instagram: @henrikvibskov

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A Day for Dhela


Daniella Helayel made her fashion mark with her brand Issa – you may remember Kate Middleton famously wearing the founder and designer’s teal-blue silk knit dress to announce her royal engagement – before selling her stake. In 2016, the London-based Brazilian designer launched another brand, Dhela. With its flagship boutique in Tokyo’s Roponggi Hills, a selection of Dhela items are also carried at Harvey Nichols, Mitsoukoshi in Tokyo’s upscale Ginza district, Boutique 1 in the Middle East and online at Stylebop

A Day for Dhela


Daniella Helayel made her fashion mark with her brand Issa – you may remember Kate Middleton famously wearing the founder and designer’s teal-blue silk knit dress to announce her royal engagement – before selling her stake. In 2016, the London-based Brazilian designer launched another brand, Dhela. With its flagship boutique in Tokyo’s Roponggi Hills, a selection of Dhela items are also carried at Harvey Nichols, Mitsoukoshi in Tokyo’s upscale Ginza district, Boutique 1 in the Middle East and online at Stylebop

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

A Day for Dhela

August 25, 2017 / by Kitty Go

Daniella Helayel

Daniella Helayel

After being out of the fashion business for three-and-a-half years, what brought you back with Dhela? 

My Japanese distributors for Issa came to me and encouraged me to get into business again, because they couldn’t find the long and short dresses in easy shapes, which I used to do for Issa. There had to be a gap in the market – or else they wouldn’t have come to me. This is also why my first distributors and standalone stores are in Tokyo. 

Tell us about your creative process.

It’s quite complicated in that I do everything myself. Prints are one of my strengths, so I design and develop them myself in China. Contrary to what many people think, there are Chinese factories that do small quantities better and more efficiently than Italy. If I just bought stock prints, my brand would have no exclusivity. 

Aside from the exclusivity of prints, what makes your brand stand out? 

Most of my collections are printed in primary or bright colours, cut into flattering shapes. Nature has always been my main source of inspiration. In fact, I’ve decided to give 1% of my profits to save the Amazon forests because I’m Brazilian – and the Amazon is a wonder and link to the world. Also, I love jacquard knits and I do them very well. Right now, only 30% to 40% of every collection is knits, but I will move into 50-50 territory soon. 

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What are your short- and long-term strategies for developing the brand? 

I never liked pre-fall, but I have to sell it, so I’ve included it as part of three small, themed deliveries for autumn/winter. Spring/summer will be very small. I’ll do resort because I’m good at it – in fact, I can live on resort and holiday. It’s too much to do four collections a year, but I also want to go back to having a £25-million company, which is what Issa was. 

My plan is to have a lifestyle brand that doesn’t just involve clothes, but also flip-flops, socks, umbrellas, Wellies, housewares, swimsuits and so on. There will also be printed Hawaiian-style shirts, ties and swim trunks for men, which will be sold separately. I could also do a small girls’ collection, which I did successfully in London and the Middle East, for gifting. 

Even if prints are a strong presence in fashion, many women still shy away from them. How should one wear them without looking overwhelmed? 

When you do printed clothes, you can’t go crazy with the style because the wearer will end up looking like an art installation. Printed clothes with so many seams look weird and futuristic. The cut has to be in a simple, precise line that’s spot on with fit and maximises the beauty of the print. The sleek style of the ’70s is where I look for inspiration.

Images: Philippe Kliot; Styling: Yasmine Esterea; Hair: Snowden Hill; Make-Up: Emma Miles

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The Best of Resort 2018


It has truly been an amazing year for resort 2018. From big-name luxury maisons to designer labels, high-standard pieces were presented with an intriguing mix of tropes and motifs, an alluring play of colours and silhouettes, and a lot of creativity and joy. A glorious wardrobe awaits you next year!

The Best of Resort 2018


It has truly been an amazing year for resort 2018. From big-name luxury maisons to designer labels, high-standard pieces were presented with an intriguing mix of tropes and motifs, an alluring play of colours and silhouettes, and a lot of creativity and joy. A glorious wardrobe awaits you next year!

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

The Best of Resort 2018

August 25, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Chanel

Keywords: ancient Greece ◆ column-heeled strappy sandals ◆ the goddess dress

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Dundas

Keywords: baroque ◆ falling silhouettes ◆ embellished kaftans


 
 

Etro

Keywords: paisley and blossoms ◆ oversized silhouettes ◆ Africa-inspired 


 

Off-White

Keywords: feminine lace ◆ naturalistic ◆ the workwear jacket


 

Paco Rabanne

Keywords: basic yet different ◆ asymmetric ◆ fluidly soft

Images: Off-White; Paco Rabanne; Instagram: @dundasworld/Moda Operandi, Inc/Dundas; Chanel; Etro

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Keep Cool and Look Good


How to dress in style regardless of the high temperatures? Marc Lauwers of Lanvin gives some sartorial tips to beat the summer heat like Gary Cooper

Keep Cool and Look Good


How to dress in style regardless of the high temperatures? Marc Lauwers of Lanvin gives some sartorial tips to beat the summer heat like Gary Cooper

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Keep Cool and Look Good

June 30, 2017 / by Jean Vonka

Images above: Lorene (Donna Reed) confronts Prew (Montgomery Clift) at a party in From Here to Eternity (1953)

Gary Cooper hops on his bicycle

Gary Cooper hops on his bicycle

Oscar Wilde once said, “Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not.” However, summer is a particularly challenging season, sartorially speaking. As the temperature rises, there’s a temptation to sacrifice elegance for comfort. 

But think twice before grabbing your favourite T-shirt and slipping into some old sneakers. Marc Lauwers, the head of Lanvin’s bespoke shirt workshop, knows his stuff about the sartorial rules. When asked how to endure the heat and humidity with elegance, he answers: “A true gentleman doesn’t care about the cold and heat – he is above climatic contingencies and looks good whatever happens.” After a dramatic pause, Lauwers adds, “If you can’t help but feel warm during summer, there are some appropriate outfits that may help. But let’s be clear: tank tops and shorts aren’t an option.” 

Smart summer style starts with lightweight clothes that breathe well and keep you cool. “Silk, for example, dries very fast and insulates from both heat and cold,” says Lauwers. “Once you’ve tried silk shirts, it’s hard to go back to basic ones.” For suits, linen is the ultimate summer fabric – and what’s more dashing than a tobacco linen suit paired with a light shirt? 

Yet, linen tends to wrinkle easily and its typical laid-back look may not be suitable for every workplace. “Cotton-linen is a nice alternative: it’s easy to care for, needs little ironing and wonderful to wear when the temperature soars,” says Lauwers. And surprisingly, one of the best fabrics for summer is wool broadcloth, which stays cool and fresh while looking more formal. “Unfortunately, wool feels a bit crispy and not everyone appreciates it,” he says. “The truth is that you should try many fabrics to figure out which one you prefer.”

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As warmer weather approaches, sleeves become a controversial topic. To roll them up or not: that is the question. Historically, rolling up your sleeves was a sign of a man going to work – or to fight. Showing off your biceps is still a sign of manliness, but if you simply want to be in the happy-hour mood, don’t roll your sleeves over your elbow. “In my opinion, no sleeve should be rolled up,” says Lauwers. “It’s commonplace to say that rolled sleeves cool one down, but it’s an illusion. On the contrary, once rolled, the fabric is thicker and warms you just where you’re supposed to sweat the most: at the crease of your elbow flexure.”

When asked about short-sleeved shirts, Lauwers says, “They don’t deserve the bad reputation they have and can be a good option. Trust me, when one goes to the beach, a nice short-sleeved shirt always looks better than a T-shirt. But please, leave your tie at home and don’t wear a jacket over it – that would be a terrible fashion faux pas.” There are two other key tips to stay cool in a shirt: wear it over your trousers and choose one with a convertible collar that elegantly folds back into lapels when worn in an open style. Alternatively, why not pay tribute to 1953’s From Here to Eternity and don a vintage Hawaiian shirt? 

When deciding on the best pair of trousers for summer, make sure that its shape lets the air comes through. Slim trousers promise you long and sweaty days. “Concerning the fit of trousers, summer is the season for large pleated trousers, preferably high-waisted: they are way more flattering than the hipster ones that dramatically shorten your silhouette,” says Lauwers. 

And don’t forget to keep your socks on, gents – summer and winter alike, they’re indispensable. Summer is the perfect time to set aside those grey and black ones and to inject a little colour in your look; green, orange or even pink socks are welcome. “Do I need to mention that one must wear long socks?” says Lauwers. “They don’t keep one too warm and hide leg hair when one sits comfortably on an armchair.” 

Last but not least, put a nice hat on before heading out in the heat. A Panama hat will instantly upgrade your summer look while protecting you from the blazing sun. Now you’re good to go, gentlemen. 

Images: PowerHouse Books/Gary Cooper: Enduring Style (Gary Cooper); John Springer Collection/Getty Images (From Here to Eternity)

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On the Sunny Side


Louis Armstrong famously sang, “Life can be so sweet – on the sunny side of the street.” That’s even more true when you’re wearing a stylish pair of sunglasses

On the Sunny Side


Louis Armstrong famously sang, “Life can be so sweet – on the sunny side of the street.” That’s even more true when you’re wearing a stylish pair of sunglasses

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

On the Sunny Side

June 30, 2017 / by Marine Orlova

Images above: Lorene (Donna Reed) confronts Prew (Montgomery Clift) at a party in From Here to Eternity (1953)

Aviator Style

In 1937, Ray-Ban created the first polarised sunglasses – for United States Air Force pilots. The large lenses (originally green) were made to give these eyes in the sky optimal protection and crystal-clear vision. Easily recognisable by their thin metallic frame with a double bridge and their teardrop shape, they were very trendy during the ’50s – every man wanted to be imbued with their heroic vibes. Wanna channel your inner Tom Cruise in Top Gun? Get a pair of aviators and make them your own; it fits just about everyone and looks just as badass on the sidewalk as it does in the cockpit of a fighter jet. 


’60s Chic

In 1952, when the sunglasses style was all about metallic frames and the aviator shape, Ray-Ban launched the Wayfarer, a dramatically different model using a relatively new material called acetate. They were mistakenly associated with Audrey Hepburn’s look in 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s – in fact, she wore a pair of Oliver Goldsmith shades. Funnily enough, the movie significantly contributed to the fame of the Wayfarer. Mysterious, modern and dark, they’re still a safe bet for hiding sleepy eyes or escaping from the paparazzi. And as they’re unisex, why not share them with your betrothed?

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Going Round

Round-shaped sunglasses are a key feature of the hippie dress code – how could we forget John Lennon’s iconic look? Far from the mood of cat-eye sunglasses, which perfectly embody Hollywood glamour and drama, round frames express intellectualism and a laid-back spirit. If you have a square face, dare to wear lenses as round as goggles; they’ll soften your angles. If not, go for a slightly more elongated model and enjoy their quirky retro look. Now you’re part of the circle alongside Diane Keaton (pictured below), Mahatma Gandhi and Harry Potter.


Bigger and Bolder

If your desire to be seen exceeds the mere practical need to see, oversized shades are for you. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis made bug-eyed sunglasses her famous signature. To emulate her elegant style, make her shades your own and choose the Spa 2 or Jacky 1 models that François Pinton designed for her in the ’60s. Otherwise, make your own stylish statement and go for contemporary yet fabulous oversized sunglasses – but be sure they suit you before splashing out on the craziest design.

Images: Sunset Boulevard/Getty Images (Tom Cruise); Mondadori Portfolio/Getty Images (Audrey Hepburn); United Artists/Getty Images (Diane Keaton); Paul Popper/Popperfoto/Getty Images (Jacqueline Onassis); Christian Dior Couture; Tory Burch; BOP; Luxottica Group; Oliver Goldsmith Sunglasses; Chanel Inc/Chanel; Oliver Peoples Inc; Mymonture.com; François Pinton; Aady Wolf Eyewear

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Ready-to-Ear


Statement earrings are the sugar and spice of any ensemble. They’re not only adorable, but they can also complement every face shape – and what could be nicer than that? For the coming summer, swap one of those off-the-rack beach dresses for a few seriously tasteful drops on the ears; you’ll discover how fresh and chic your style can be

Ready-to-Ear


Statement earrings are the sugar and spice of any ensemble. They’re not only adorable, but they can also complement every face shape – and what could be nicer than that? For the coming summer, swap one of those off-the-rack beach dresses for a few seriously tasteful drops on the ears; you’ll discover how fresh and chic your style can be

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Ready-to-Ear

June 30, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Start with colourful and tribal

This combination is delightfully enjoyable: think mysterious motifs, the hedonistic vibe (courtesy of the eye-popping neon colours) and the sparks of chemistry between the mixed materials – beads, raffia, threads, feathers, quartz stones, miniature shells, freshwater pearls and more. For those who fancy longer earrings, the tinkly sound when you move and the tingly sensation when the tassels brush your neck are two more delightful reasons to put a pair on.

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Quirky is alluring

The ear-to-neck area is a perfect area to experiment with a little fashion quirkiness. Wear some conversation-starter earrings – be they pineapple twins, a pair of teary eyes or oversized fluffy tinsel. Get ready to be showered with compliments and meet some new friends.

If your ears can’t bear the weight of heavy earrings (some statement earrings certainly aren’t light) or you simply don’t have your earlobes pierced, you don’t have to be left out of the fun – opt for a pair of clip-ons instead. You can also switch back and forth from a pair of earrings to clip-ons if you want to give your lobes a break every once a while.

Images: Courtesy of respective brands

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Slip ’Em On and Party


Definitely not the ratty pair from your bedroom, these slippers are the embellished, upgraded, effortlessly chic versions that’ll be your party-ready darlings

Slip ’Em On and Party


Definitely not the ratty pair from your bedroom, these slippers are the embellished, upgraded, effortlessly chic versions that’ll be your party-ready darlings

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Slip ’Em On and Party

June 30, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

 Kitty slippers, Charlotte Olympia

 Kitty slippers, Charlotte Olympia

Burma Blue flip-flops, Pagoda

Burma Blue flip-flops, Pagoda

Slippers are the It-shoes. You know – those backless, effortless-to-put-on, stylish ones that are often called mules, slip-on sandals or Moroccan slippers. Not those cheap floppy ones hidden somewhere you can’t find in your bedroom. This summer, these chosen slippers are designed to shine. 

Charlotte Olympia’s Kitty Flats have been seen on numerous celebrities and fashion bloggers, but the Kitty Slippers are new this season. Released with the brand’s Brazil-inspired spring/summer 2017 fashion show (called Let’s Go Bananas), the slipper version in six vibrant summery colours will be your new velvet dream. 

The luxurious Mia Mule by Alberta Ferretti has added its “summer version”, which uses denim on some of the pairs. Handcrafted with embroidery details, beadings, silken floral patterns and exquisite colour tints, you shouldn’t
expect them to come cheap – but it’s still worth investing in a pair. 

Presenting French couture for more than 90 years, Rochas embodies femininity and romantic grace. The open-toed
mules in its recent collection are supremely rich and make a strong fashion statement, such as the peachy-satin pair with gold-and-silver crystal, the silvery patent-leather pair with stud embellishments, or the lavish gold-tone pair that’s fully sequined.

Fur is usually for reserved winter, but a little bit makes for an extraordinary style statement for a summer evening date or a dinner party. The rose-nude Miu Miu sandals bring together fur and satin, heeled at a manageable height, while the turquoise feather pair with a crystal-embellished mid-heel is another luxe choice. Make sure your nails are done up nicely, too.

The Princetown slippers have become an icon of Gucci since their launch in 2015, covering a wide range of styles including jacquard, brocade, fur-lined, lace, glitter and more. This new satin pair is particularly special. In addition to a mirrored heel, the decorative crystal bow is removable with an elastic band, so switching between embellished and basic is that easy.

Images: Aeffe Retail/Alberta Ferretti; Mytheresa.com/Prada/Miu Miu; Gucci; Farfetch UK/Interparfums/Rochas; Charlotte Olympia; Velvet Pagoda

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Ragdoll LA


Live out your laid-back Los Angeles dreams with a sensual dose of reality

Ragdoll LA


Live out your laid-back Los Angeles dreams with a sensual dose of reality

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Ragdoll LA

June 30, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Inspired by the laid-back lifestyle in Los Angeles, Swedish designer Lisa Larson started Ragdoll LA in 2013 to create the closet of her dreams – in her words, she describes that as “classy with a touch of sexy, vintage and rock ’n’ roll.” The spring/summer 2017 collection features the signature sweatshirt and trackpants in petaline shades such as shadow blue and dusty pink. To play dress-up, put on one of the bias-cut silk slip dresses in light blue or vintage black. (ragdoll-la.com)

Images: Ragdoll LA

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Zimmermann


Jump in the water – or don’t – with this sexy, aesthetic Australian swimwear for summer

Zimmermann


Jump in the water – or don’t – with this sexy, aesthetic Australian swimwear for summer

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Zimmermann

June 30, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

If you ever get lost trying to figure out what to wear in summer, go with Australian label Zimmermann. Sisters Simone and Nicky started the namesake label in 1991, based on a line of feminine dresses; it’s now best known for its aesthetic swimwear, in which the same elegance remains. The Summer Swim 2017 collection offers up a range of romantic styles including lace-panel bikinis, fan bralettes and embroidered one-pieces. Get ready to sizzle. (zimmermannwear.com)

Images: Zimmermann

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Whatʼs in a Name


In the 1980s, fashion brands began putting their logos on everything. Here, we chart their recent rise to prominence

Whatʼs in a Name


In the 1980s, fashion brands began putting their logos on everything. Here, we chart their recent rise to prominence

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Whatʼs in a Name

May 26, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Images above: Caroline Vreeland and Shea Marie wear Tommy Hilfiger for autumn 2016

Gradually, the logo was transformed from an ostentatious affection to an active fashion accessory. Most significantly, the logo itself was growing in size, ballooning from a three-quarter-inch emblem into a chest-sized marque.
— Naomi Klein in her book No Logo (1999)
Desperately Seeking Susan (1985) poster

Desperately Seeking Susan (1985) poster

3. Calvin Klein Body underwear, as worn by model Garrett Neff in 2008

3. Calvin Klein Body underwear, as worn by model Garrett Neff in 2008

Before ready-to-wear became standard practice, made-to-measure was a common choice when it came to getting a piece of clothing. In the 1950s, it became popular among Parisian women to collect sewing patterns – the garment template released periodically in magazines – so they could bring the pattern to a tailor’s shop or sew it themselves at home. 

However, self-sewn clothes had all but disappeared by the 1980s as ostentatious, showy styles took the lead. Attire became highly conspicuous, such as Madonna’s garish look in the 1985 film Desperately Seeking Susan, Joan Collins’s powerful woman’s shoulder pads and the yuppies’ preppy upscale styling that rose in parallel with the increase of wealth in many societies including the US, Britain and Hong Kong. 

People seemed to be splashing heaps of cash on clothes and desired more visibility. Fashion companies smelled a business opportunity to increase their value by elevating their brand profiles, so they spent enormously on marketing and ad campaigns. Logos evolved from a differentiating name to a strong branding force and a status symbol. 

From the decadent ’80s to today, fashion brands have embraced marketing with glamour and creativity, putting their logos under the spotlight. Eminent players in the ’80s and ’90s included emerging American jeans brands such as Jordache, Calvin Klein and Guess, which put their distinctive logos on the back pocket. Traditional French fashion houses such as Chanel, Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton have been huge marketers as well, in a quest to be at the top of those consumers’ minds.

In that era, the size of the logo grew, as well as the influence, from runway to off-the-rack. At London Fashion Week in 1996, Tommy Hilfiger famously dressed his models and rapper Treach (from then-prominent American hip-hop group Naughty by Nature) in giant logo T-shirts with the brand’s signature colours, making a big statement for the label, Hilfiger sales nearly hit US$500 million in 1996 – a huge jump from US$107 million in 1992.

Showing off logos became a key point in styling. When Calvin Klein launched its successful underwear campaigns in the early 1990s using topless, well-endowed male models such as Mark Wahlberg for its line of boxers, countless men (and certainly women, too) started to view the logo in a different light. Now it’s possible to see any type of person sporting a Calvin Klein band around their waist, whether it’s a Hollywood star, a plumber or your next-door neighbour.

Today, logos are prominent on the street – think the Nike swoosh, the Gucci double-G, the Chanel interlocking Cs, the Louis Vuitton monogram. Still others are turning to logo-less products, such as those by Japanese lifestyle brand Muji, whose name means “no-brand quality goods”. Either way, whether you love or hate logos, you can be secure that you’re not defined solely by what you wear.

Images: ©Bruce Weber/©2017 Calvin Klein (Garrett Neff, Calvin Klein Body); Tommy Hilfiger Licensing LLC/Tommy Hilfiger Licensing BV; Louis Vuitton North America, Inc and Louis Vuitton USA Inc; Moschino; Orion Pictures (Desperately Seeking Susan)

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Moschino womenswear, SS17

Moschino womenswear, SS17

A bag from the Louis Vuitton Monogram Colors collection

A bag from the Louis Vuitton Monogram Colors collection