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Fashion


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Supermodel Flea Market


Top models around the world come together for a good cause – a closet sale where you can own a piece of history

Supermodel Flea Market


Top models around the world come together for a good cause – a closet sale where you can own a piece of history

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Supermodel Flea Market

October 24, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

German model Toni Garrn has teamed up with Paris-based pre-owned luxury e-tailer Vestiaire Collective on a project for a good cause – to empower women. From November 2, VestiaireCollective.com will host an exclusive global online sale. Anyone can shop for pieces from the wardrobes (literally!) of top fashionistas including Kate Moss, Gisele Bündchen, Poppy Delevingne, Naomi Campbell, Karlie Kloss, Alexa Chung, Jourdan Dunn and Garrn herself. All of the proceeds will go to Garrn’s namesake foundation to help girls in Zimbabwe gain access to education.

Here in Hong Kong, numerous celebrities and models have also joined the cause by donating their pre-loved handbags – from Marc Jacobs, Coach, Valentino and more. The list includes Amanda Strang (Amanda S), Angela Yuen, Cara G McIlroy (Cara G), Jeannie Chan and Louise Wong. Check out the slideshow to see their exclusive quotes for CDLP.

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Ever Yves


Two new museums celebrate the astonishing, pioneering talent of designer Yves Saint Laurent

Ever Yves


Two new museums celebrate the astonishing, pioneering talent of designer Yves Saint Laurent

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Ever Yves

September 29, 2017 / by Sonia Altshuler

Image above: At the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech

 

  At the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech

At the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech

“I want to give haute couture a kind of wink, a sense of humour – to introduce the whole sense of freedom one sees in the street into high fashion; to give couture the same provocative and arrogant look as punk – but of course with luxury and dignity and style.” So said fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent in 1983 on the eve of his exhibition at the Costume Institute of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, its first-ever show devoted to a living designer. 

Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, who also curated the show, wrote the following for the introduction: “For 26 years, Yves Saint Laurent has kept women’s clothes on the same high level. He is followed across the oceans of the world by women who look young, live young and are young no matter what their age… Half of the time he is inspired by the street, and half of the time the street gets its style from Yves Saint Laurent. His vehicle to the street is pret-a-porter – but behind it all, there are the superb designs of his couture workroom.” 

His influence on 20th-century fashion and beyond may be even greater than the peers he worked alongside – including Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy and Gabrielle Chanel – and his clothes and themes more referenced and appropriated by high and low culture alike. Although she died in 1971, Chanel, never one for modesty, had even pronounced him her spiritual heir. 

What makes Saint Laurent’s collection of work so distinct is that none of his predecessors and peers, despite their
luminous names, kept their original clothes in the same way. While other houses buy their dresses back from clients to build their collections, in the case of Yves Saint Laurent, what went down the catwalk was what got kept. His longtime partner in business and romance, Pierre Bergé, who died earlier this month, told Vogue that one day, the designer said to him: “I adore that dress; we must keep it.” And so they did. 

Nearly 55 years since the launch of his eponymous brand in 1961, two new Yves Saint Laurent museums are set to open. One opens on October 19 in Marrakech (appropriately enough, on Rue Yves Saint Laurent) and the other in Paris at 5 Avenue Marceau. Both will exhibit a selection from the Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent of more than 5,000 pieces of haute couture and 15,000 haute couture accessories, along with an array of sketches, drawings, photographs and other ephemera. 

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  Yves Saint Laurent poses with the palms

Yves Saint Laurent poses with the palms

As befits such a vast collection, the museum in Marrakech occupies a 43,000sqft space, with a 4,300sqft permanent exhibition space designed by Christophe Martin. The building is a stone’s throw away from the Jardin Majorelle, which was bought by Saint Laurent and Bergé in 1980. 

The Marrakech museum was designed by Studio KO, an architectural firm established by Olivier Marty and Karl Fournier, who have realised numerous projects in Morocco, Europe and the United States. While leafing through the couturier’s archives, they were struck by curves running alongside straight lines, and by the succession of delicate and bold forms that characterised the designer’s work. The facade of the building appears as an intersection of cubes with a lace-like covering of bricks, creating patterns that recall the weft and warp of fabric. As with the lining of a couture jacket, the interior is radically different: velvety, smooth and radiant.

According to Studio KO: “The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech combines two worlds that we are very familiar with and that are dear to our hearts: fashion and Morocco. Since the founding of our architectural firm, we have worked in this country that so inspired Yves Saint Laurent. It is with great joy that we have worked on this ambitious project, and contributed to the history and prestige of the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century.” 

 An original Yves Saint Laurent drawing for the famed Le Smoking tuxedo suit (autumn/winter 1966)

An original Yves Saint Laurent drawing for the famed Le Smoking tuxedo suit (autumn/winter 1966)

  Haute couture dress from the Mondrian collection (autumn/winter 1965)

Haute couture dress from the Mondrian collection (autumn/winter 1965)

To see the museum is to witness a veritable greatest-hits collection – not just of the Yves Saint Laurent costume inventory, but of the fashion silhouette of the second half of the 20th century. It’s one that kept women, no matter their age, looking young. The designer won the French Wool Board competition in 1954 with a black crêpe cocktail dress he designed in the Hubert de Givenchy workshop. Three years later, at 21, he took the reins of Christian Dior after the designer’s death in 1957, becoming the youngest couturier in the world to run a fashion house. His first collection was 1958’s Trapeze, for which he won a Neiman Marcus Award for Fashion, and the year marked his first meeting with Bergé, who would become both his lover and his manager. 

At Yves Saint Laurent, the hits were unrelenting. The designer popularised the ready-to-wear label; his famous tuxedo suit for women, Le Smoking; the pea coat; the safari jacket; and perhaps most famously and most imitated of all, the Mondrian dress. As much a fashion designer, he was an artist and harnessed art for his purpose, using Van Gogh’s Sunflowers and Irises for another costume and often citing references to Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Jean Cocteau and Andy Warhol in his work. 

He was groundbreaking, too, as the first to design an haute couture black leather jacket, and even had a nude photograph of himself published for the launch of his first perfume for men, Pour Homme. Saint Laurent invoked male dress codes and appropriated them for his womenswear, thus investing women with greater social power while preserving their femininity. Says Bergé of that contribution: “If Chanel gave women their freedom, it was Saint Laurent who empowered them.” And made them feel forever young.

TIMELINE OF A LIFETIME

1936: Born in Oran, Algeria

1954: Hired by Christian Dior as his studio assistant

1957: Dior dies; replaces him and becomes, at age 21, the youngest couturier in the world

1958: Meets longtime romantic partner Pierre Bergé

1960: Presents first haute couture leather jacket on the catwalk; drafted for military service and replaced at Dior by Marc Bohan

1961: Sets up own couture house with Bergé

1962: First Yves Saint Laurent fashion show at 30 Bis Rue Spontini; first pea jacket

1964: First perfume: Y

1965: Tribute to Mondrian collection

1966: Pop Art collection; first tuxedo; first see-through garments (the “nude look”); discovers Marrakech, Morocco with Bergé and buys Dar el Hanch (House of the Serpent) in the Medina; opens first Rive Gauche boutique at 21 Rue de Tournon

1967: African collection; publishes La Vilaine Lulu (“Naughty Lulu”); dresses Catherine Deneuve for Luis Buñuel’s film Belle de Jour

1968: First safari suit; first jumpsuit

1971: Launches Rive Gauche perfume for women; poses nude for photographer Jeanloup Sieff to promote Pour Homme, his first eau de toilette for men

1974: The fashion house moves to 5 Avenue Marceau

1977: Chinese Girls collection

1982: Receives the International Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America

1983: Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Creation opens at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, curated by Diana Vreeland

1985: Retrospective at the National Art Gallery in Beijing

1988: Creates embroidered jackets based on Van Gogh’s Sunflowers and Irises

1993: With Bergé, sells the Yves Saint Laurent Group to Elf Sanofi, but the couple retain ownership of the couture house

1998: Stops designing ready-to-wear collections for Rive Gauche; Alber Elbaz named artistic director of ready-to-wear for women and Hedi Slimane for men

1999: Elf Sanofi sells the Yves Saint Laurent Group to the Pinault-Printemps-Redoute Group, but is still managed by Bergé and Saint Laurent; Tom Ford replaces Elbaz and Slimane as artistic director of ready-to-wear

2002: Bids farewell to couture; the fashion house closes; the Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent is recognised as a non-profit organisation

2008: Dies in his Paris home at the age of 71

Images: Fondation Jardin Majorelle © Nicolas Matheus (Marrakech museum façade); © Pierre Bergé (Yves Saint Laurent portrait); © Christophe Martin Architectes (Marrakech museum interior shot); © Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (drawing); © Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent, Paris / Alexandre Guirkinger (Mondrian dress);

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Sartorial Souls


Three New York-based men’s fashion brands bring metro-sexy back for the new season

Sartorial Souls


Three New York-based men’s fashion brands bring metro-sexy back for the new season

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Sartorial Souls

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

The definition of traditional masculinity has been quite narrow, but the metrosexual movement of the early 2000s changed perceptions about what it is to be a fashionable man. For many, it proved a joy to let their free souls roam and enjoy being a bel homme in the urban jungle. Proving that it’s not just a distant memory, New York-based men’s fashion brands Palmiers du Mal, Willy Chavarria and Bode have brought metrosexual-inspired looks back to the runway for the new season. Art, drama and wanderlust all play significant roles in the collections, which focus on practical casual wear and comfort through the use of luxurious, skin-friendly fabrics. Here’s a toast to those guys who just won’t settle for mediocrity.

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Willy Chavarria

Keywords: Tracksuit with satin inlay ◆ leather biker jacket ◆ workwear jumpsuit ◆ back to the classics

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Bode

Keywords: Wool shirt-jacket ◆ French linen on cotton Quaker lace ◆ floral-printed sleep shirts


 
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Palmiers du Mal

Keywords: Ultra-luxe loungewear ◆ pink velvet ◆ wild-printed shawls ◆ South African-inspired tribal motifs

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Accessory-Mad Men


Guys, don’t delay – put some of the coolest rings and cufflinks on your fingers and wrists today

Accessory-Mad Men


Guys, don’t delay – put some of the coolest rings and cufflinks on your fingers and wrists today

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Accessory-Mad Men 

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Throughout history, ornamental objects for men have often served as a means of expressing status and power. Today, the definition of contemporary men’s jewellery has broadened, granting quite a bit more freedom to make a distinctive personal statement.

British luxury jewellery designer Stephen Webster has been in the business for more than 35 years; he received the prestigious De Beers accreditation in 1982. Webster’s collections are crafted in an array of colours and from a variety of precious materials, including white gold, sterling silver, black rhodium, diamond and pigmented enamel. His design concept – not for the faint-hearted, he says – puts the focus on primitive masculinity, with wild motifs such as beasts and their body parts, deadly thorns, mythological ravens and sophisticated geometric shapes that resemble ancient totems.

Jan Leslie has taken a radically different approach; the American designer is well known for her collection of cufflinks and tuxedo studs. Playful, fun and light-hearted, her pieces are aimed at unlocking the child-like wonders of men’s hearts. She opts for bright colours and unconventional motifs, with meticulously crafted details on small accessories made of precious materials such as sterling silver and hand-painted enamel. Check out the cobalt blue owl lapel pin with one removable winking eye, her take on the good-fortune maneki neko (the famed “welcoming cat” seen at the entrance to many stores) with a bobblehead, and the angel-and-devil monkey cufflink combo with movable arms and legs – matching tuxedo studs are also available to achieve that formal yet fun look.

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Ghoulish Picks


It’s the one date on the calendar when your style is allowed to be a frightful sight: October 31

Ghoulish Picks


It’s the one date on the calendar when your style is allowed to be a frightful sight: October 31

Lifestyle > Fashion




 

Ghoulish Picks

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

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Eco, Chic


An interview with 2017 EcoChic Design Award winners – and a call for sustainable fashion

Eco, Chic


An interview with 2017 EcoChic Design Award winners – and a call for sustainable fashion

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Eco, Chic

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Founded in Hong Kong by former dentist Christina Dean in 2007, Redress claims to be Asia’s first environmental NGO focused on the fashion industry. The EcoChic Design Award is a major part of what Redress does. Initiated in 2011, the award stages a sustainable fashion design competition that invites emerging fashion designers from all around the world to gather in Hong Kong with a single theme in mind – creating mainstream clothing with minimal textile waste.

Here is an interview with this year’s first-prize winner Kate Morris (UK) and runner-up Lia Kassif (Israel) on the competition, what they like most about Hong Kong and their next steps. 

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Kate Morris, EcoChic Design Award 2017 first-prize winner

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Having received the prize, what has this competition brought you?

This competition really has been the biggest adventure I’ve ever been on. Creating my collection transformed my view of what upcycling can achieve. The week of the grand finals broadened my mindset and horizons, along with meeting so many fantastic people. Winning first prize has bought me confidence, exposure and the valuable opportunity to work and learn with influential platform brand BYT, which will enable me to make a change within the industry.

Three words to describe your collection.

Conscious, cruelty-free and cheerful.

What’s your view on sustainability in fashion?

The planet simply does not have enough resources to carry on producing clothing at this rate. We have reached a critical point and my motivation to design fashion has been led by my desire to be a part of changing this. I believe sustainable fashion is possible if all areas of the supply chain work together, led by the designer, to make more informed choices. I do not believe that this leads to limitations; I consider this an opportunity to generate unexpected designs through a story that the consumer can connect with. 

How do you like Hong Kong? What things inspire you in the city?

I totally fell in love with Hong Kong. I love the juxtaposition of urban and nature. You can visit the Buddhist temple on Lantau Island in the day, then go for dinner in a high-rise building in the city in the evening. The people of Hong Kong love clothes and appreciate all sorts of fashion design. 

What’s your next step?

After returning to Hong Kong to join the team to create an upcycled capsule collection for BYT, I hope to continue to contribute to changing attitudes within the fashion industry. My long-term goal is to launch my own knitwear brand called Crop, made from sustainable plant fibres.


Lia Kassif, EcoChic Design Award 2017 second-prize winner

Having received the prize, what has this competition brought you?

The competition and all the activities that we, the finalists, went through as part of the grand final week, exposed me even more to the major importance of sustainability. Reconstructing old clothes with their own history and giving them new life, concept, meaning, style and pleasure have been a real challenge for me. I had the chance to meet incredible and talented people from all around the world, and it was great to find out that we share the same passion. As for winning, I’m so grateful and happy to work with Orsola de Castro and to design garments for indie star Ellen Loo to wear.

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Three words to describe your collection.

Unique, wearable and sustainable.

What’s your view on sustainability in fashion?

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. That’s why I believe that sustainability is the most significant subject for the industry today – one that should be enhanced right now. We must change our habits and our attitudes in the industry in order to save the planet for us and the next generations.

How do you like Hong Kong? What things inspire you in the city?

I really liked Hong Kong. The combination of Western and Eastern culture brings a lot of magic and inspiration to the streets. I’ve never been in a city that has such an energy and special vibes. The beautiful nature that sits just behind the skyscrapers, the authentic markets next to luxury shopping centres and all those nice people in the streets makes Hong Kong so unique and special.

What’s your next step?

I’m looking forward to beginning my mentorship with Orsola de Castro and starting work on my new sustainable brand. I hope I will get the chance to collaborate with other designers to find a way to reduce the damage of the fashion industry – and still produce beautiful garments that make people feel and look good.

© 2017 Redress Limited

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Victoria’s Secret Heading to Shanghai this November


Pink and glamorous, it’s VS’s debut show in China / XOXO

Victoria’s Secret Heading to Shanghai this November


Pink and glamorous, it’s VS’s debut show in China / XOXO

Lifestyle > Fashion




Victoria’s Secret Heading to Shanghai this November

September 14, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

On November 28, Victoria’s Secret – the glamorous American lingerie giant – is headed to Shanghai for its first annual show in Asia.

An all-star crew of 14 “Victoria’s Secret Angels” will perform this year, including veterans Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio, Candice Swanepoel and Lily Aldridge, as well as a few new faces. According to the brand, the list of Chinese models revealed so far includes returning favourites Liu Wen and He Sui, as well as first-timers Xie Xin and Parisian-born Estelle Chen. 

Directed by the epic Hamish Hamilton, a long-time Victoria’s Secret fashion show director (whose other career highlights include the London 2012 Olympic Games’ opening and closing ceremonies, the Academy Awards and numerous Super Bowl halftime shows), the entertaining grand show will be broadcast in more than 190 countries.

More details are forthcoming. Stay tuned to the brand’s official social media channels for updates about the event – including “pink-carpet” interviews, model profiles, behind-the-scenes photos and surprising musical performances.

Victoria’s Secret  

Facebook:    http://www.facebook.com/victoriassecret
Weibo: @VictoriasSecret维多利亚的秘密
WeChat:VictoriasSecret (WeChat ID: VS_Official)

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I.T x Kris Wu/Share the Luv...


I.T x Kris Wu/Share the Luv...


Lifestyle > Fashion




I.T x Kris Wu/Share the Luv...

August 21, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

 

Megastar entertainer Kris Wu becomes I.T group’s first ambassador, appearing in a stylish new fashion campaign for the multi-brand retailer’s in-house UNDER GARDEN brand. The actor, singer and music producer shows his playfulness by mixing a hip-hop vibe and vintage street style for the video, which features nostalgic cars, retro tv’s / radios and vibrant neon lights - with phrases like “Hate it or Luv”, “Run this Town” and “Stay Strong”. Go share the Luv...

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All Grown Up


Alexa Chung began her career as a teenage model. She’s now 33, with a brand of her own and numerous other claims to fame – but her most prestigious title remains “It girl”

All Grown Up


Alexa Chung began her career as a teenage model. She’s now 33, with a brand of her own and numerous other claims to fame – but her most prestigious title remains “It girl”

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

All Grown Up 

August 25, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

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The daughter of a Chinese-British graphic designer and a British housewife, the 174cm Alexa Chung was “discovered” when she was 14 by a London-based modelling agency. The experience that many girls her age dreamed of, however, didn’t sit well with the teenager. According to Chung, her parents were unsupportive of her taking up modelling as a profession, she was asked to pose semi-naked when it was unnecessary and she was also deeply affected by criticism about her appearance.

Chung’s career took off when she started to appear in a slew of music videos and TV shows in 2006. Her playful personality, witty dialogue and spontaneous reactions on camera earned her celebrity status. She debuted her own US show on MTV in 2009 – a daily, live talk show called It’s On with Alexa Chung – followed by the show Gonzo with Alexa Chung on UK screens a year later. 

Her personal style brought her as much attention as her TV appearances and she was hounded by photographers for street snaps. She loves to mix and match styles, and she often wears masculine pieces that exude a touch of femininity, such as an oversized suit combined with a shiny pair of Mary Janes. Her love of flats, as well as her iconic play-it-cool gesture – crossing one foot over the other in front of the cameras – made more and more people call her “It girl”, a term originally used to describe beautiful young women who don’t flaunt their sexuality. 

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Chung frequently appeared on the best-dressed lists, on magazine covers and in the front row of fashion shows. In 2009, when she was just 25, British handbag brand Mulberry created the Alexa satchel, inspired by her, and the bag soon became the brand’s most sought-after. She received a string of acclaim and recognition from industry leaders; Anna Wintour called her “a phenomenon” and The New York Times dubbed her “the Kate Moss of the new generation” – she even beat out Moss for Vogue’s best-dressed title in 2009.

From 2011 to 2013, Chung took home the British Fashion Council’s British Style Award three consecutive times; the public-voted award “recognises an individual who embodies the spirit of British fashion.” The year she turned 30, she became the face of Parisian fashion maison Longchamp, landed one of her largest campaigns with L’Oréal and released her first book, It, which openly discusses the formation of her style. 

After numerous co-branding projects with the likes of AG Jeans and Madewell, she officially became a fashion designer with the launch of Alexachung, backed by London-based private equity investor Peter Dubens. At the show for her debut collection this May in North London, Chung opted for a glittering green gown. Some of the familiar styles that she likes to wear were spotted throughout the collection, such as Mary Janes, the workwear jacket, Peter Pan collars and Asian inspiration galore. All the pieces are free of fur, Angora hair and exotic skins.

“Age had something to do with it – a restlessness in New York, looking for stability,” she explained in an interview with Vogue after the show. “I’m young enough and excited enough to start something new, but old enough to have learned a bit. And confident enough to think I could pull it off.” Clearly, the It girl has grown up.

Images: Instagram: @alexachung

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Style on a Budget


Welcome to our HK$5,000 fashion challenge! These four looks will maximise your style without breaking the bank

Style on a Budget


Welcome to our HK$5,000 fashion challenge! These four looks will maximise your style without breaking the bank

Lifestyle > Fashion


 

Style on a Budget

August 25, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Images: Courtesy of respective brands

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