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Natural Wonders


Let your cares float away in the wilderness of the Arctic Bath in Swedish Lapland

Natural Wonders


Let your cares float away in the wilderness of the Arctic Bath in Swedish Lapland

Lifestyle > Travel


 

Natural Wonders

January 6, 2021 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: Entrance to the unique hotel

Arctic Bath from above

Arctic Bath from above

Intrepid globetrotters and holiday adventurers who think they’ve done and seen just about everything the travel landscape has to offer might want to consider a serene and spectacular escape at the enticingly named Arctic Bath. The just-opened resort in Harads, Swedish Lapland – home of the indigenous Sámi people, it’s an area sometimes referred to as northern Europe’s last wilderness – is well worth the plunge.

Part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group, the audacious, circular 12-room floating hotel/spa (with a plunge pool in the middle) is set on the Lule River and is inspired by the timber-floating era, when felled trees were transported downriver for processing, with the main building representing a “log jam”.

Throughout, the design emphasises well-being and soul-soothing. Crowned with an abstract and artful exterior of pine logs and designed by Swedish architect Bertil Harström, who is responsible for the nearby Bird’s Nest and UFO rooms at the Treehotel, the interiors comprise natural pine wood, Baltic limestone floors and reindeer skins – all aimed at inducing maximum comfort and calm.

The stylish cabins on elevated poles are divided between land and water (six on each) and are furnished with prominent Swedish brands. Larger split-level versions (at 62 square metres) sleep up to five people; these feature spiral staircases and soft-lit loft bedrooms.

There are meditative spa therapies and rituals, while treatment menus and products are supplied by Swedish eco/vegan brand Kerstin Florian. Guests are gifted eco-friendly bathing suits and swimming shorts. There’s the open-air cold-bath cycle, a steam room, three saunas and outdoor whirlpool tubs – excellent places for stargazing and admiring the kaleidoscopic Northern Lights in winter.

When your appetite calls, the cosy restaurant draws on sustainably sourced seasonal produce and runs the gamut from slow-cooked reindeer and smoked moose to butter-fried Arctic char, berries and abundant sorrel across five- or six-course set menus, while the drinks menu includes locally produced craft beers and Swedish whisky. Breakfast is a straightforward cold buffet assemblage of cereals, bread, ham, cheese and coffee.

For a little light adventure, there’s a smattering of excursions to consider, such as husky sledding under the aurora borealis (best viewed from August to March), snowshoe hiking (see the rapids at Storforsen Nature Reserve) and cross-country skiing. You can also book a visit to the historic Sámi town of Jokkmokk with Anna Kuhmunen, who shares her people’s culture and history, as well as an introduction to a reindeer herd. When the ice melts, there are paddleboarding, kayaking and swimming options in the river. The new radical self-care regime for 2021 starts here.

Images provided to China Daily / Photo: Mats Engfors/Fotographic (Delectable Swedish cuisine)

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African Paradise


By armchair or on foot, lose yourself in the elusive wonders of Zanzibar, where China first set foot in the 13th century

African Paradise


By armchair or on foot, lose yourself in the elusive wonders of Zanzibar, where China first set foot in the 13th century

Lifestyle > Travel


 

African Paradise

May 20, 2020 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: Aline Coquelle on the pristine shores of the &Beyond Mnemba private island

On the east coast of Zanzibar, in Jambiani, is Casadamare- a piece of heaven owned by a delightful Italian couple.jpg

On the east coast of Zanzibar, in Jambiani, is Casadamare: a piece of heaven owned by a delightful Italian couple

How did a small archipelago of 1,000 square miles off the East African coast make such a large impact on the globe’s popular imagination? And how did it come to be spoken of in foreign literary legends as a far-off romantic idyll, almost like a fantastical place?

It all started 10 million years ago when the island of Pemba separated from mainland Africa, followed, just 10,000 years ago, by the island of Unguja. The story of Zanzibar, that is, which for centuries, has been a haven and gateway that functions as a crossroads of cultures, from African, Asian, Iran to Omani, Portuguese and so on.

Zanzibar entered European imaginations through the travel writing of Marco Polo in the 13th century, but while Europe was only just getting to know the archipelago, the Middle East and China already had quite a presence on the East African coast and were enacting trade across the Indian Ocean. Zanzibar is mentioned in a Chinese book dated 1226, under the name Cengba by the geographer Zhao Rugua, who understood that the name Zanzibar was derived from the term zangi, which meant “black-skinned people”. A farmer in Zanzibar in 1945 discovered a hoard of coins consisting of 250 Tang and Song coins, dating from 618 to 1295.

China’s influence in Zanzibar grew with the arrival of Muslim admiral and explorer Zheng He, who sailed around the globe long before Marco Polo and Columbus, with huge fleets of ships that were like mini-cities. His boats were called a “treasure fleet”, as the vessels carried silks, porcelains and other valuables the Chinese could use to trade with foreign peoples.

In much of the recent media coverage concerning China’s contemporary relationship with Africa, there is often little if any recognition that the historical connection between China and Africa runs deep. In terms of Africa, the Chinese are not new to the continent, neither in terms of trade nor of development aid. Even today, the Chinese are funding a variety of exploits, including a water supply project, which includes pumping station pipelines, providing safe water to around 2,500 residents on Zanzibar’s Pemba Island. Since 2017, Chinese medical experts from the Jiangsu Institute of Parasitic Diseases have been stationed in Zanzibar.

Not unlike Zheng He and his ships, Zanzibar is bountiful with treasures, too – be it experiencing the still-unique wildlife by scuba-diving off the coast of a private island or visiting the Jozani Forest to see the endemic red colobus monkey.

A seaweed ocean plantation where women become empowered through their collective work.jpg

Yet nothing illustrates the multi-cultural apex quite like the architecture. There are the older houses with Swahili architecture, with carved doors and interior stucco decorations; the Omani mansions along the seafront, in all their magnificence; the streets near the Old Fort, populated with modest Gujarati shopfront houses; and even structures inspired by the palaces of India. From Hindu temples to Muslim song, the diversity of the place and its people is ever-present.

You can see the magic of the archipelago, with its waters, lagoons, mystic wilderness, and Swahili patrimony and culture bursting with life, all from the comfort of your armchair in Assouline’s new title Zanzibar, being released this month. The moment the global COVID-19 lockdown is lifted, make this elusive but attainable paradise your first adventure in the brave new world of post-pandemic travel. Zanzibar and its native Zanzibaris are life-altering.

Zanzibar by Aline Coquelle
300 pages
(assouline.com)

All photos © Aline Coquelle

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Barcelona Summer


The Catalan capital buzzes with superabundant cultural and culinary delights; the only problem is making enough time for everything

Barcelona Summer


The Catalan capital buzzes with superabundant cultural and culinary delights; the only problem is making enough time for everything

Lifestyle > Travel


 

Barcelona Summer

July 10, 2019 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: The unique modernist building Casa Amatller

 
Casa Viçens, Antoni Gaudí’s first house in the city

Casa Viçens, Antoni Gaudí’s first house in the city

 

Much of Barcelona’s energy derives, as it does in Hong Kong, from the proximity of the city to the sea on one side and to nature on the other. With a relatively small population of 1.6 million, Barcelona has an abundance of cultural riches, both historic and contemporary, that few other global cities can match. There’s art: Joan Miró, Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí. Architecture: Antoni Gaudí’s imprint is ubiquitous in the city. And food: as consistent as you’ll find anywhere. Oh, and you may have heard of its football club: FC Barcelona, which plays in Europe’s largest football stadium, the Camp Nou, whose supporters roar at every move of the current god of the game, Lionel Messi. Here are some of the best places to eat, visit, shop and stay in the city.


Classic façades in Eixample

Classic façades in Eixample

EAT 

Barcelona is the food capital of Spain. Start by sampling its fare at the renowned 19th-century food market Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria, which teems with local ham, cheese, churros, olive oil, tapas (made by the same people for 50 years) and wine, with stalls boasting the best of Catalonia. It’s an unmissable culinary and Instagram paradise. Lovers of Iberian cuisine should try El Nacional, which has four restaurants specialising in different regions. 

For a semi-Asian vibe, the Catalan-Canadian chef Jordi Artal has relocated his famous Cinc Sentits and its tasting menus to the Eixample district, with a distinctly Japanese zen-esque aesthetic; there’s also a cool new venue called Clubhaus, a cross-platform space of karaoke, ping-pong, Mexican and Asian street food, and a members-only club and restaurant (US$25 to join). Bao Bao does pan-Asian food and cocktails, while Parco will sate your piscatorial cravings; this latter gem does Barcelona’s best sushi on Passeig de Gracià. 

The Marina area teems with seafood restaurants and an impressive aquarium (in fact, Barcelona’s fourth most-visited destination). Pez Vela serves scrumptious paella and wild-caught fish, with inspiring beach and sea views. Xiringuito Escribà, on the waterfront of Bogatell Beach, is a Barcelona institution for seafood, paella and cascades of cava. 

SEE

If you crave the selfies of Hong Kong’s Pottinger Street or Graham Street’s walls outside G.O.D, then don’t miss photographer Joan Fontcuberta’s mural The World Begins with Every Kiss. Painted in 2014 for the 300th anniversary of the National Day of Catalonia, the wall is a tribute to the Catalan lives lost during the fall of Barcelona in the War of Spanish Succession. Comprising some 4,000 tiles, which from a distance show two people kissing, the mural has become such a poignant and popular landmark that the government has left it up for good. 

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Beach, Barcelona

Beach, Barcelona

The Picasso Museum contains more 4,000 of the artist’s works and is spread across five palaces. Picasso moved to Barcelona as a 14-year-old boy, and the museum traces his development from classically trained painter to cubist pioneer. It’s an education on every level and it’s full of surprises. Similarly, a visit to the Fundació Joan Miró is a must – and don’t miss the intriguing space downstairs, Espai 13, devoted to showcases of experimental local and international contemporary art. 

Hit the heights afterwards by taking the funicular (ironically, Gaudí died after being hit by a tram in 1926) to the top of the Tibidabo mountain and admire the stunning views of the city. Travel further up and you’ll discover the birthplace of Salvador Dalí, with a museum dedicated to him and his crypt below. (The white seaside town of Cadaqués, the artist’s birthplace, is only about two hours from Barcelona and is well worth the trip). 

If you want to gawp at Antoni Gaudí, and in this city it’s almost impossible not to, visit the still incomplete cathedral La Sagrada Familia. Once denounced as garish and monstrous, it’s now the most-visited attraction in the city, with Gaudí’s Park Güell and the FC Barcelona Museum not far behind; the structure began construction in 1882 and its completion is aimed for 2026 via private donations. Gaudí’s Casa Milà, the last private residence he designed was built between 1906 and 1912, is also a must-see. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, a category that pops up all over Barcelona. 

La Rambla (or Las Ramblas, as the locals call it) is Barcelona’s most famous street, and at 1.2 kilometres has Port Vell at its southern tip and Plaça de Catalunya at its north. It’s home to mime artists and street performers; for first-time visitors, it’s tempting to grab a seat and a jug of sangria, and simply absorb the sights and sounds. Sample from the La Rambla drinking fountain, too; folklore says that if you sip from it, you’ll fall in love with Barcelona and always return to the city.

Greengrocer at public market La Boqueria Barcelona

Greengrocer at public market La Boqueria Barcelona

SHOP

Passeig de Gracià is a stunning historic shopping avenue in central Barcelona, where you can source everything from high-end fashion to boutique novelties in some of the city’s trendiest stores. Artisanal shoppers will love the El Born neighbourhood; it’s the old part of town, bursting with guilty secrets from handmade leather bags and shoes to vintage furniture and accessories of all kinds, making it a dream district for discoveries. 

If outlet shopping is your bag, then 40 minutes from Barcelona you’ll find La Roca Village, filled with outlet stores for all the big brands at great prices, from homewares to fashion. Or head to the Encants Vells flea market, an excellent spot for bargains, set in an uber-modern building in an increasingly hip part of the city. 

Palo Alto Market is another kind of hipsterville, with its numerous food trucks and pop-up concept spaces, but it only runs on the first weekend of each month. Pre-book online and you’ll be laughing as you skip the queues to discover locally made eyewear, books, bags, furniture, woodwork, jewellery, baseball caps and more.

STAY 

As you’d expect, Barcelona abounds with hotel options. While it has high-end spots such as the W hotel, the Mandarin Oriental and a recently opened members-only Soho House, for something stylish without breaking the bank, there’s the Casa Camper boutique hotel near Las Ramblas and the MACBA art gallery. Each room has a separate lounge and there’s a free 24-hour buffet. In a neoclassical building dating from 1856, Casa Bonay is in the Eixample district and has a shared terrace with a cool vibe; it’s a great location, inexpensive and fun. And Hotel Brummell in the Poble-sec is a young hotel that’s great for exploring a less-traversed part of the city in a rising, trendy neighbourhood.

Images: ©boluddha (The unique modernist building Casa Amatller; Classic façades in Eixample; Casa Viçens, Antoni Gaudí’s first house in the city)

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Calling All Holidaynauts


Take a US$52 million trip to the world’s leading – and only – space resort

Calling All Holidaynauts


Take a US$52 million trip to the world’s leading – and only – space resort

Lifestyle > Travel


 

Calling All Holidaynauts

July 10, 2019 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Done Antarctica, the Galapagos and Machu Picchu, and now desperately in need of the next thrill-seeking destination? Space, it seems, is rapidly becoming the new travel hotspot – welcome to the International Space Station (ISS). Last month, the US National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) made the surprise announcement that it will allow private citizens to visit or holiday on the ISS for up to 30 days. The agency is allowing commercial companies such as SpaceX and Bigelow Space Operations to arrange the trips, charging US$35,000 per day for each tourist. The private operators will, of course, charge more on top of that to cover the cost of shuttle flights; hotelier and businessman Robert Bigelow has cited US$52 million as the rough total for a 30-plus-day trip, the first of which could happen as soon as 2020.

“Enabling a vibrant economy in low-earth orbit has always been a driving element of the space station programme and will make space more accessible to all Americans,” says astronaut Kristina Koh in a NASA promotional film. “Transitioning towards this new model of business is an important step to enable NASA to move full speed ahead towards our goal of landing the first woman, and the next man, on the moon. Commercial companies will play a key role.” 

In less than two decades, SpaceX has transformed from Elon Musk’s dream of a greenhouse experiment on Mars to conducting the majority of US rocket launches. To date, it has now completed more than 67 rocket launches, although none of them have yet been manned. Naturally, SpaceX must first be able to regularly and safely launch astronauts into orbit. 

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Russia has already sent tourists to the ISS at a cost of US$40 million for a week-long stay, whereas NASA had previously restricted ISS use to non-commercial purposes. However, a new initiative by the agency, the Strategic Objective 2.1, directs it to “lay the foundation for America to maintain a constant human presence in low-Earth orbit to be enabled by a commercial market.” 

But holidaying at the sole space resort is prohibitively expensive for decidedly low-grade facilities. To wit: regnerative life support and toilet facilities will total US$11,250 per day; crew supplies such as food, air, medical kits and exercise equip-ment will reach US$22,500 per day; and if you want to make crazy films and IG the heck out of your toilet visit, data will cost US$50 per gigabyte. But for those who don’t mind blowing a US$52-million hole in their pocket, making the world’s most expensive short film and transferring it isn’t that much of a stretch. 

While going to the ISS is beyond luxury as most of us know it, what’s the reality of living aboard it for a short period? Astronaut Peggy Whitson, the longest American space inhabitant at the ISS, likens being there to “a camping trip”. While the station may look large, the habitable living area comprises only about one-third of a conventional Boeing 747 and maintains six astronauts at all times. Each visitor gets their personal laptop and sleeping pod – no silk sheets and romantic cosying-up here, as visitors endure sleeping bags strapped to the wall. 

Those used to five-star cuisine will likely be underwhelmed, too – don’t expect continental breakfast. Most nourishment on the ISS comes from rehydrated power foods, but there are highlights such as tortillas and chocolate brownies. And don’t worry about overdoing it on the confections; there’s a state-of-the-art gym with a treadmill, a stationary bicycle and ARED, a high-weight, low-repetition device that boosts muscle power. (Just six months spent in space – the time it takes to fly to Mars – reduces muscle volume by 15% and produces a 25% loss in strength.)

Whatever the physical limitations of space, the psychological race is on to go where very few have ventured before. And as with all investments – especially of the US$52 million variety – it’s always best practice to secure your spot early. Bon voyage, holidaynauts.

Image: NASA

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Infinite Dolce Vita


Luminaries, poets and the jet-set never tire of Italy’s charming resort island of Capri

Infinite Dolce Vita


Luminaries, poets and the jet-set never tire of Italy’s charming resort island of Capri

Lifestyle > Travel


 

Infinite Dolce Vita 

June 12, 2019 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: Waves crash against Capri’s rocks on a blustery summer day

Capri Dolce VitaPublished by Assouline, 2019(assouline.com)

Capri Dolce Vita

Published by Assouline, 2019

(assouline.com)

The island of Capri is about as glamorous as island living gets. One of the largest islands in the Gulf of Naples, the Greeks called it Pausilypon, meaning “pause from troubles”. In the early 20th century, it took in political refugees, including Russian writer Maxim Gorky and Vladimir Lenin; the famous Chilean poet Pablo Neruda followed suit in the 1950s and lived in exile there. Today, Capri is a romantic, artistic, shopping and recreational mecca, especially in its celebrated La Piazzetta, known as “the living room of the world” and in which cars are prohibited. 

Classic cinema plays a large part of Capri’s allure. Witness the spontaneous, erumpent beauty of Brigitte Bardot captured on the roof of Casa Malaparte in Jean-Luc Godard’s Contempt (1963) and Marcello Mastroianni and Claudia Cardinale in Liliana Cavani’s The Skin (1981), which depicted La Piazzetta under German invasion. The famous Bay of Naples attracted the mega-wattage star power of Sophia Loren, Clark Gable, Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, among numerous others. 

With glamour has come fashion and luxury – can you guess where the famed capri pants originated? The island has been the setting for a number of high-end advertising campaigns for brands, too. For the last two seasons, Chanel has taken a summer vacation in Capri by setting up a pop-up store – featuring a terracotta facade with an ivy-entwined pergola – in the heart of the island on Via Camerelle, with offerings from its Métiers d’Art and Coco Beach collections. 

Via Camerelle houses ateliers and international designers of all declensions, from classic and elegant to casual, with glamorous boutiques such as Grey Flannel, as well as high-end brands including Jo No Fui, MSGM and Gucci. On Via Le Botteghe, you’ll find the very eccentric Blu for over-the-top purchases, Daniela Gregis for the wild and adventurous, and Jamin Puech for kaleidoscopic clutches. And at the multi-brand boutique La Parisienne, you’ll find just about everything, from golden caftans and silver charms to Jackie O capri pants.

Retail fuel needs epicurean fuel, of course – and Capri’s most renowned first-course, ravioli, is a fine way to start any meal; a thin sheet of pasta encloses caciotta cheese, parmesan and majoram filling, served in a tomato and fresh basil sauce. Caprese salad is a local delicacy, and wild quail is prepared with white wine, unsalted pancetta and peas. Or, opt to go marine and sample the island’s abundant crustacea alongside Capri bianco – a white wine made from the falanghina, greco and biancolella grapes. 

Then, all you have to do is walk or swim around the island – there are numerous gardens, villas, churches and caves to see – or take the more time-honoured route and grab a deckchair, pause your troubles and succumb to the island’s wonder. And why not take the newly published and splendidly lavish Capri: Dolce Vita by Assouline as your guide book while you’re at it?

Images: © Assouline

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A Great Read


See Helsinki – and get lost in the city’s inimitable literature of style

A Great Read


See Helsinki – and get lost in the city’s inimitable literature of style

Lifestyle > Travel


 

A Great Read

February 20, 2019 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: The entrance to the Central Library Oodi from Sanomatalo 

Amos Rex’s Lasipalatsin Aukio (Glass Palace Square)

Amos Rex’s Lasipalatsin Aukio (Glass Palace Square)

Helsinki, Finland is one of Europe’s fastest-growing cities, and while the prospect of visiting a library may not seem a typical starting point for appreciation, you’d be wise to break the rules for the just-opened Helsinki Central Library Oodi, designed by Finnish studio ALA Architects, which stands opposite the Parliament House. So new it’s still wet with the shimmer of Instagram potential, the calm and contemplative top-floor space in glass, floating above the busy capital with sweeping views of the surrounding park and cityscape, is quite the looker. “The serene atmosphere invites visitors to read, learn, think and enjoy themselves,” explain the architects of this “book heaven”. 

In fact, “learn, think and enjoy” might be the perfect tagline for Finland and buzzy Helsinki, which continues to host increasing numbers of Chinese visitors to the city – 221,000 in 2017 – making China the country’s fifth-largest source of tourists. If the quality of experience over the quantity of merchandise is the new travel mantra, then Helsinki’s got you covered. 

Like any book, don’t judge Library Oodi by its cover. Once inside, among its remarkable discoveries are: 3D printers, sewing machines and gaming rooms; walls bedecked with Finnish words, which are hard to pronounce but look aesthetically advanced and profound, like 21st-century hieroglyphic hygge; a VR art exhibition space; and a cinema, of course, because doesn’t everyone go to their local library when they want to watch movies? Barely four months since its opening, Library Oodi already has the feel of being every Finlandian’s favourite new living room. You could even take a first date there. 

Style and sophistication sit so effortlessly with social accessibility and simplicity in Helsinki that more than a lifestyle, they feel like a divine right. Design and Helsinki are natural bedfellows – and perhaps all those long, dark winters and short, almost night-less summers make nature the place’s most appropriated inspiration. From Alvar Aalto’s buildings and iconic birch stools to the Gustav Nyström-created Design Museum, located inside a former school building in the Kaarti area, everywhere you step lends a primer on Finnish design. 

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The bar terrace outside the Löyly sauna

The bar terrace outside the Löyly sauna

Punavuori, home to the city’s design district, comprises 25 streets and more than 200 retail nirvanas – and along the way is an education. The Littala and Arabia Design Centre, bringing together two of Finland’s most famous labels, is the newest addition to the area. More than just a window into the past, present and future of ceramics and glassware, the centre invites you to interact with working artists and explore your own creativity through guided tours, lectures and events.

Inside, there’s The Design Lab, an inspired space for new ideas and unexpected creativity that’s open to designers, visitors, students and the eternally curious. With free Wi-Fi and coffee, colour guides and inspirational books, it’s a design shrine to the continuous process of experimentation, much like the city and its residents. You can spend days in this science-meets-medicine-meets-architecture-meets-art gallery space and never get bored. After, pop into Finnish furniture studio Nikari, which makes custom-built pieces for Icelandic singer Björk, among others, or the also life-enhancing concept store and gallery Lokal, home to independent Finnish art, design and craft. 

Find their art equivalent in vibrant galleries such as Helsinki Contemporary and Turku Art Museum. Galerie Forsblom, one of the largest contemporary art galleries, hosts work by emerging and young artists. The legendary Marimekko is also on these streets, the fashion and home furnishings store founded in 1951 by Armi and Viljo Ratia, which has more than 3,000 patterns in its archives. Every Finnish home has at least one item – the brand went global when Jacqueline Kennedy wore its fashion in the 1960s. Each May, the fashion house continues to open the summer season with a free open-air fashion show at Esplanade Park in the city centre, showcasing its latest wares.

Hotel Kämp’s stately Presidential Mannerheim Suite

Hotel Kämp’s stately Presidential Mannerheim Suite

When the locals aren’t reclining in libraries and design labs, you can find them looking after their own mainframes. About 99% of Finns visit the spa once a week, both to socialise and relax. Start with the architecturally stunning Löyly, which features both traditional smoke and wood-burning public saunas, with room for 20 people, as well as smaller private saunas for those who prefer their own space. Löyly’s huge front terrace lets visitors succumb to the stupendous views across the Baltic Sea and even take the dramatic staircase down to it. The space also has a bar that serves the Kyrö Distillery’s Napue gin, winner of the gin and tonic category at the 2018 International Wine & Spirit Competition. And there’s the Allas Sea Pool, a marine spa and oasis of urban culture in the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from Market Square. 

Hungry? Finland is famed for its bread and pastries, so start at Teemu & Markus for exquisite patisserie and entirely moreish rustic breads, Eromanga for meat pies, Kannisto for apple pies and Café Esplanad for huge cinnamon buns. There’s also a wide selection at the indoor market halls and delis such as Anton & Anton. For chocolate, at which Finns also excel, the one-stop shop is Goodio, made in the Kallio district and distinguished by their vibrantly colourful wrappers. 

The exquisite Wintergarden bar at Hotel St George

The exquisite Wintergarden bar at Hotel St George

For heartier traditional fare, start with Kappeli, which has served the finest Finnish dishes for more than 140 years. The property is based in the beautiful Esplanadi Park, and boasts a glass veranda and a magnificent house. Or go casual at The Cock, an easy-going brasserie at Kasarmitori Square, where a crispy duck confit with truffle risotto, spinach and mushrooms, or a queen crab toast with horseradish sour cream, shrimps and crusty bread for Saturday lunch should work wonders for the body, mind and wallet.

Music aficionados should check out Helsinki’s record scene, as more than ten stores have eclectic collections of vinyl and CDs spanning almost every genre of global music. Fennica Records, with its passionate, knowledgeable staff, is impressive and located just off Hameentie Street, while Black and White is one of the biggest and oldest record stores in Helsinki. 

Where to stay in such a design mecca? The recently opened Hotel St George has set the bar high in matters of stylish luxury, with murals and fabrics by young designer Klaus Haapaniemi, and sits on the corner of a leafy park on a tree-lined boulevard. In the lobby, the Ai Weiwei kite Tianwu is suspended from the ceiling alongside the bird sculpture Learning to Fly by Pekka Jylhä (which hangs over the Wintergarden lounge and comes in the form of a cocktail in an exquisite bird-shaped glass). Like many hotels in Helsinki, bikes are for hire here as well. For the old-school, there’s Hotel Kämp, the first deluxe five-star hotel in the Nordic countries and one of Helsinki’s most valued historical buildings. This was a favourite haunt of composer Jean Sibelius and is still going strong today. 

Between the two on Bulevardi is the Klaus K, inspired by Finland’s national epic poem The Kalevala, and popular for its central location, imaginative style and the character of the rooms. For the more adventurous, there’s GLO Hotel Art, which combines the Finnish national romantic style with art nouveau interiors – and feels more like a Tolkien novel. It’s also close to designer shops; the iconic Stockmann department store is 15 minutes away. 

Helsinki doesn’t stop. It’s like a book you can’t put down – and when and if you do, the reality feels much the same. Especially at Library Oodi, the city’s favourite living room.

Marimekko’s iconic Unikko print was designed in 1964 by Maija Isola

Marimekko’s iconic Unikko print was designed in 1964 by Maija Isola

Images: Tuomas Uusheimo / © Amos Rex (Glass Palace Square); Tuomas Uusheimo / © Helsinki Marketing (Central Library Oodi); Yiping Feng and Ling Ouyang / © Helsinki Marketing (Hotel St George); Starwood / www.hotelkamp.fi (Hotel Kämp); Instagram: @marimekko (Marimekko); Pekka Keränen / © Löyly / Royal Restaurants (Löyly, bar terrace)

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Mountain High


Architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron brings a city-chic aesthetic to a new Swiss alpine generation with an outpost atop Titlis

Mountain High


Architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron brings a city-chic aesthetic to a new Swiss alpine generation with an outpost atop Titlis

Lifestyle > Travel


 

Mountain High

January 16, 2019 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: Titlis 3020 in Engelberg, Switzerland

One of the cosy accommodations atop Titlis at the Hotel Alpenclub

One of the cosy accommodations atop Titlis at the Hotel Alpenclub

The vast influence of Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron on the culture of contemporary building couldn’t be stronger – particularly in Hong Kong, where its design for the world’s largest museum site, M+, finally topped out last month and will open in 2020, complementing the two structures the firm enacted as part of Hong Kong’s Tai Kwun art and lifestyle project at the former prison and police headquarters in Central. 

Among its numerous illustrious projects, Herzog & de Meuron was also responsible for the overhaul of Tate Modern in London and the giant Bankside Power Station. And all that before the monumental “Bird’s Nest” Beijing Olympic Stadium in 2008, which US architect Frank Gehry called “the greatest architectural project since the Colosseum in Rome”; Gehry also wrote a letter to Herzog & de Meuron telling them as much when he first laid eyes on the imposing structure. 

Meanwhile, the Basel-based Pritzker Prize-winning practice, founded in 1978, continues to cross-platform, whether it’s working with Miuccia Prada for store openings in Tokyo, for menswear collaborations with Prada, or for the Serpentine Gallery in London and 56 Leonard Street in New York. 

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The intimate Gadä Bar at Alpenclub

The intimate Gadä Bar at Alpenclub

As would be expected, winter sports are a top attraction on Titlis

As would be expected, winter sports are a top attraction on Titlis

Riding e-bikes with a majestic Swiss backdrop

Riding e-bikes with a majestic Swiss backdrop

But this project sees the firm elevate its own intuitive cool a bit closer to home – in the Swiss Alps. Titlis, a mountain 3,000 metres above sea level, is one of Switzerland’s most renowned international tourist attractions. The station summit was built in 1967, but despite updates and modifications, it no longer fulfils current or future requirements. Cue Herzog & de Meuron with a brand new construction that entirely replaces the original structure, as well as an upgrade of the existing underground tunnel. 

If Titlis 3020 looks Bond-ish, that sort of rarefied retreat that a Blofeld or a Dr No might frequent, it’s no accident. For too long, Herzog & de Meuron remark, “high-altitude outdoor locations in Switzerland have been fitted with purely functional buildings for the transport and catering of visitors. Rarely do they display any architectural ambitions.” 

Until now, that is. “Our project on Titlis belongs to a new generation of alpine architecture that aims to do justice to the breathtaking landscape by ensuring a corresponding architectural experience of the kind now familiar to us in our cities,” say the architects. “Titlis gives us the opportunity to present a concrete example of our long-standing theoretical study of the territory of Switzerland. The project articulates an unstoppable process that is transforming Switzerland into a complex, differentiated overall urban landscape.” Much of which is the firm’s own doing, it could be said. 

Images: © Herzog & de Meuron (Titlis 3020); © Engelberg-Titlis; Photo: Christian Perret (Hotel Alpenclub); © Oskar Enander (skiing); marco.zemp@gmx.ch (riding e-bikes); © Engelberg-Titlis (Gadä Bar)

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The Jaffa Courtyard- Image Credit Amit Geron.jpg

Style Converts


A historic convent in Jaffa, Israel is re-launched as a glamorous hotel

Style Converts


A historic convent in Jaffa, Israel is re-launched as a glamorous hotel

Lifestyle > Travel


 

Style Converts

November 7, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: The Jaffa’s resplendent courtyard

Archways abound in The Jaffa

Archways abound in The Jaffa

Israel’s hotel offerings haven’t always kept pace with the more subtle, upscale offerings befitting the global travel circuit, but that’s now changing in striking style with the opening of The Jaffa Tel Aviv, in the historic 4,000-year-old port city of Jaffa. The new benchmark is evident from your first step into the minimalist lobby, with sofas and chairs by Shiro Kuramata, a Damien Hirst painting and John Pawson’s backgammon tables, all in the presence of a fragment of wall built by 13th-century crusaders, which was discovered during excavation on the more than decade-long project. 

If the 120-guest room, 32-residence property – comprising a 19th-century French hospital and a new building at 2 Louis Pasteur Street – feels somewhat game-changing, then it follows the provenance of Aby Rosen, the well-known art collector and owner of New York-based property developer RFR Holding. Rosen has snapped up a prolific inventory of visible real estate and hospitality projects, including the Seagram Building, Lever House, The Gramercy Park Hotel and 11 Howard in New York, along with W South Beach in Miami – where his parties during the annual Art Basel extravaganza are legendary. 

German-born and US-raised Rosen, whose connection to Israel goes back to his early days and family origins, considers this undertaking one of his most poignant. “The Jaffa has been my longest and most personal project to date,” he says. “From the outset, I saw this as a unique opportunity to develop a truly remarkable hotel with residences in the heart of old Jaffa.” 

For those unfamiliar, Jaffa is said to be the longest continuously inhabited city in the world. It was the launching point of the biblical Jonah-and-the-whale story and has become one of the coolest neighbourhoods in Tel Aviv, buzzing with ultra-hipsters in art studios and gilted gentrification. The Jaffa’s apartments, with the largest listed at US$60 million, should certainly appeal to the latter. 

Rosen turned to Jaffa-born architect Ramy Gill and British designer John Pawson, with whom he worked on parts of The Gramercy in New York. “I know and love John’s approach to design, especially with historical projects,” says Rosen, who tasked Pawson with bringing his minimalist interpretation to the classical monastery building. And he’s thrilled with the outcome. “His sensitivity manifests itself in the thoughtful design, introducing new life and purpose to the building. I’m sure The Jaffa will quickly become a Tel Aviv icon,” says Rosen. 

There’s plenty to love now. Start with the wonderfully Instagrammable cocktail lounge inside the hospital’s former chapel, with its exposed Corinthian columns, powder-blue vaulted ceiling, original stained-glass windows and marbled floors, which anchor three-legged Botolo chairs by Italian architect Cini Boeri. (Now 92, Boeri has just been tapped by Miuccia Prada to design a bag, in tandem with two other female architects, for Prada’s spring/summer 2019 women’s fashion collection). A bar takes the place of an altar in this majestic parlour of desanctified liquefaction, appropriately named Chapel. 

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A serene room in the hotel

A serene room in the hotel

The Jaffa’s chic cocktail bar, Chapel

The Jaffa’s chic cocktail bar, Chapel

Major Food Group, the entity behind Carbone and Sadelle’s in Manhattan, has also launched two destination restaurants: Don Camillo, a New York-style Italian joint with a Mediterranean twist, in collaboration with local chef Roi Antebi, serving dishes such as yellowtail Jaffa, tortellini al ragu and spicy pollo diavolo; and Golda’s Deli, a delicatessen serving American Jewish classics such as bagels and lox, tuna melts and double-decker sandwiches. 

For those more physically than gustatorially motivated, there’s also a sumptuous pool, a 24/7 fitness centre and the L Raphael Spa. All of which leaves not just you in great shape, but with the immediate future for Israel’s luxury hospitality industry taking on a leaner, fitter, more sensitive and more thoughtful silhouette.

Images: Amit Geron

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The Aragu Restaurant and Cru Lounge at Velaa Private Island.jpg

The Essence of Aragu


Dine to your heart’s desire at this resplendent resort in the Maldives

The Essence of Aragu


Dine to your heart’s desire at this resplendent resort in the Maldives

Lifestyle > Travel


 

Spa from the Madding Crowd 

September 12, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: The Aragu Restaurant and Cru Lounge at Velaa Private Island

The Ocean Pool House at Velaa

The Ocean Pool House at Velaa

Some spots on Earth have a tranquil quality that infuses itself into your being 24 hours a day. One such place is Velaa Private Island in the Maldives. The island resort boasts architecture that fuses Maldivian culture and nuance with contemporary luxury. One of its prime escapes is the restaurant Aragu – meaning “essence” in the local lingo – an over-water retreat with beautiful, aquatic-themed interiors that flow from the natural surroundings.

Its charms don’t end there. From Gillardeau oysters to organic tofu, from Queensland spanner crab to New Zealand lamb, and from Peruvian chocolate to almond fondant, guests embark on an epicurean odyssey inspired by the daily arrivals of organic ingredients from around the world. Complementing this European-with-an-Asian-twist fare is one of the largest and constantly evolving wine lists in the Maldives. What are you waiting for? (velaaprivateisland.com)

New Zealand lamb features on the Aragu menu

Images: provided to China Daily

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