Chic Stays

August 29, 2018

Tabitha Simmons – 1 Hotel South Beach, Miami

Miami does lobbies like nowhere else, and 1 Hotel South Beach is no exception. An expansive space of white and wood, with huge windows and big squishy sofas, it hums with conversation and beautiful people. But the things I love most about it, which surprised me the first time I visited, is that it’s actually all sustainable. 

The reception desk is made from an old oak tree, and there’s a wall that from a distance looks like artwork – a gigantic mural of a swimmer – but when you get closer you see that it’s really moss. Off to one side is a juice bar to pick up that green cleanse on the way back from SoulCycle next door. Waiting outside is a fleet of Tesla electric cars to whizz silently around town. 

It’s green yet glamorous, fun but also fearsomely followed through. Room keys are fashioned out of recycled wood and beds have hemp mattresses covered in organic linen. In the wardrobes are hangers cut from cardboard, made from old packaging, and in the shower there are sand timers set to five minutes. The bedrooms are huge and bright, airy and supremely calming – a refreshing change from Miami’s usual high-tempo vibe. 

Miami for me is always a beach fix, a blast of heat away from New York’s winters. There’s a string of hotels along this stretch of South Beach, and if you wander out from 1 Hotel, you’re on the sand. But anyone can see Miami from sea level; the best view here is up on the roof – it’s incredible. The whole of Miami stretches out below while I sit up there in the sky, sipping tequila and soda by the pool. 

Chic Stays

August 15, 2018

Paul Smith – Claridge’s, London

It’s an overused word these days, but Claridge’s is iconic. Even before visiting for the first time, I’d heard so much about its fascinating history that as soon as I stepped into the polished revolving doors, I knew that I was entering somewhere very special. 

I first stayed about 20 years ago, but had been going for drinks or dinner for some time before then. I’m not a big drinker, but tea in the Reading Room is a great treat for anyone visiting London. 

I’ve been so many times since my first stay that I’ve lost count. My wife, Pauline, and I have been together since I was 21, but we still like to go on dates. Claridge’s is somewhere we love to visit, particularly if we’re celebrating. 

I love the art deco feel that runs through the hotel. From the black-and-white tiled foyer to the mirrored ballroom where I’ve held fashion shows, everything about it is reminiscent of that stylish period. The history attached to the whole place also comes through in the countless interesting people who have stayed over the years; from film stars such as Cary Grant, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor to politicians like Winston Churchill, who moved in after the war – and so many more. 

Even now, every visit feels like a treat. When service elsewhere has become very rehearsed, formulaic and homogenised, Claridge’s has so much personality – especially John, who works in the lift. Many of the staff have been here for such a long time that they are as much a part of the hotel’s story as its famous guests. But ultimately, Claridge’s is part of London’s own story in a way that few others can claim to be. 

Spa from the Madding Crowd 

August 15, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Image above: Banyan Tree Lang Co in Vietnam

Chic Stays

August 1, 2018

Poppy Delevingne – Hotel Bel-Air, Los Angeles

The flight is coming in to land, Los Angeles is stretching out beneath me and I have butterflies. Is it the anticipation of the In-N-Out cheeseburger that I’m so desperately craving? Or is it the longing for that feeling of warm sunshine on my face, adding lashings of freckles to my already impressive collection? As the cab pulls up to the Hotel Bel-Air, I realise that, in fact, this is it; I’m coming home – if home were indeed candy-coated and sparkly and brimming with swans. 

The first things I do is order a freshly squeezed watermelon juice and take off into the gardens. Are you sure I’m not in Neverland? I stumble upon hidden alcoves and benches made for secret kisses beneath the purple bougainvillea. 

Rooms are tucked among palm trees and exotic potted plants. At night, the whole place is sprinkled with fairy lights and romance. Everything buzzes and trickles, with creatures making their happy homes and fountains in abundance. I leap onto the bed deep in 78 pillows, so crisp and so clean, while the most charming of bellboys lights the fire. Cosy just took on a whole new meaning. 

I love finding places in LA that hold a little history. The pool house, surrounded by avocado trees, used to be the Bel-Air stables back in the 1920s. And one of the suites, the old Bel-Air sales offices, has its original beautiful wooden ceiling still intact after all its glory. Marilyn Monroe did her very last photo shoot here six weeks before she died. And I’m pretty sure Grace Kelly would have loved the suite they named after her, with hand-painted flowers all over the walls; the place is all about princesses.    

The night draws in, and I head to the bar to drown myself in a bowl of red wine and another of truffle fries. Live jazz music is pouring into my ears, as iconic pictures by Norman Seeff of Tina Turner and Ray Charles look on by candlelight. This place is always overflowing with characters, stories and gossip. 

I’m pretty sure I don’t remember stumbling back to my delicious den, but suddenly morning is seeping in through my windows, and outside it’s so still I feel like I’m on the top of the world. So tranquil, so calm. And all I want to do is melt into these power-pink-flamingo-coloured walls and disappear. 

Icelandic Utopia

August 1, 2018 / by Zhang Yen

It’s only a 20-minute drive from Keflavik Airport to the Blue Lagoon in Grindavik, southern Iceland, or 50 minutes from Reykjavik, the capital, but it’s positively surreal. From the main highway that connects Keflavik and Reykjavik, simply turn at the sign marked “Blue Lagoon”, Road Nr. 426, drive for about 10 kilometres, and presto, you’ll arrive at the most sublime otherworldy-ness. 

Grindavik was settled around the year 900CE, and many of the town’s 3,000 inhabitants work in the fishing industry – processing and exporting salted cod is the town’s mainstay – or commute the short distance to Reykjavik. But it’s best-known for the Blue Lagoon, one of the most popular destinations for travellers in Iceland. The water, discovered by accident by geothermal engineers in the 1970s, is extremely rich in silica and sulphur, and has proven efficacious for those suffering from skin conditions such as psoriasis, to the extent that the Blue Lagoon now operates a research and development facility to help discover cures for other skin ailments. 

Yet before you dip a toe into any potential balming or healing volcanic waters, the Blue Lagoon’s location will take your breath away. This jewel in the crown offers a series of programmes for one-day visitors who make it part of a broader stay in Iceland. A so-called premium treatment at the Retreat Spa gains entrance to the lagoon, silica mud masks, drinks, algae masks, and a table reservation with sparkling wine and the tasting menu at Lava Restaurant. (The Retreat Spa also has its own restaurant, which features à la carte breakfast from 7.30am onwards as you gaze out at the mineral-rich waters and centuries-old lava.) The spa amenities are prodigious and include various in-water treatments, as well as massages in subterranean spaces. 

Then there’s Lava Restaurant – did we mention the view? Built into an 800-year-old lava cliff on the west bank of the Blue Lagoon, it’s a place where the food couldn’t be any more dynamic and enchanting; as an unforgettable culinary experience, this is second to none. Inspired by the Blue Lagoon’s surrounding landscape and created by the chefs, the four-course taster showcases the savoury delights of Icelandic cuisine. 

One interesting point to note is that Iceland was mostly an agricultural society in history and the fishing economy has only really taken off in more recent times. A lunch at Lava might consist of langoustine soup, with the garlic-marinated shellfish served with seaweed; beer-cooked blue mussels from Reykjanes Peninsula with herb aioli, crispy potatoes and seaweed; smoked haddock with rutabaga, rye bread, potatoes and dill; or birch- and juniper-cured arctic char. Get ready for a main course of grilled beef tenderloin with Icelandic mushrooms, crispy potatoes, onion jam and Dijon mustard; lamb shoulder served with artichokes, carrots, dates and thyme; cod with barley, fennel and mussel sauce; or the fish of the day, caught in Grindavik Harbour and served with lobster sauce and kale. Desserts are caramel chocolate mousse, vanilla ice cream and salted caramel, or strawberries with coconut, mint and almonds. And that’s just lunch! Sorrel and skyr and sensual nirvana. 

There are two hotel facilities, the Silica and the Retreat, which are both remarkable. Take the Lagoon Suite and your own private lagoon is just a step away as you succumb to its splendour while observing the volcanic horizon. Travel just doesn’t feel like it gets any closer to the rhythms of nature, or life’s beginnings, than here in the Blue Lagoon. It’s astonishing to behold and to be a part of. 

As you gaze across the volcanic vista, you’ll experience the great outdoors by way of puffins, cormorants, shags, kittiwakes and even the occasional white-tailed eagle. Take a tour and observe whales and dolphins in their natural habitat for a poignant dose of reality. And for real thrill, if you have kids, hop on the Viking Sushi adventure boat, with its combination of sailing, viewing small islands, soaking in spectacular landscapes, and catching and eating fresh seafood on the spot. Children – and adults, given the boat we were on – gaped in awe at the variety of marine life drawn aboard the boat in one catch. The scallops were so fresh they barely touched the sides as they poured down the palate. Beyond luxury, this experience touched something deep in our souls and spirits, allowing us to convene with nature in its most unaltered state. 

Mykonos Muse

August 1, 2018 / by Olivia James

Image above: Quiet at Super Paradise beach

From a distance, Mykonos, dressed in dazzling white limestone, looks like a giant sculpture. The stark white houses, so typical of the post-Byzantine Cycladic tradition, look like rocks “strewn by the Great Creator of the world,” as the Greek architect Aris Konstantinidis noted in his homage to the island’s architecture, Two Villages from Mykonos. The landscape is naked, sparse, with just a few trees and a few thorny bushes battered by wild winds. 

Mykonos is an island defined by its traditional cubist architecture. “Unless you have seen the houses of Mykonos, you can’t pretend to be an architect,” Le Corbusier, the legendary pioneer of modernism, declared after his first visit to the Cyclades in 1933. “Whatever architecture has to say, it is said here.” 

West of the island lies Hora, the main town and harbour capital. From its ancient promenade and hanging patios, one never tires of witnessing – again and again – the most incredible spectacle repeating itself every early evening: the sun melting or dissolving into a purple-red Aegean. The best spot to experience it is the old area of Kastro; from its heights, one cannot get enough of watching the sun exiting grandly behind the arched bell tower of Panagia Paraportiani. 

The town, one of the most stunning in all the Cyclades, is flat – an exception to the rule elsewhere. Its defining feature is the labyrinth of twisting, tapering alleys – its disorienting layout designed to protect locals from marauding pirates. Even today, it is inevitable for first-time visitors to get lost in the tangled lanes, returning to the same spot time after time in search of clues about which path to follow. 

Mykonos has one quintessential symbol visible from far away: the windmills. They have stood proudly to the southeast of Hora since the 15th century. These three-level cylindrical mills, with their narrow windows and thatched roofs, played a vital part in the island’s economy, providing flour for the countless ships that sailed the Aegean. The millers took advantage of the strong winds; the spinning white triangular sails tirelessly turned the granite millstones that ground the grain to flour. 

Chapels are also ubiquitous on Mykonos. Nobody knows exactly how many; some say 600, others claim more than 1,000. Locals continue to build churches even today, and on the eve of a saint’s day, vespers are followed by a communal feast with singing and dancing, a living trace of ancient sacrifices to the gods. 

The Byzantine Panagia Paraportiani is often described as the “Parthenon of folk architecture”. Built in the late 16th or early 17th century in Kastro, its name derives from paraporti, the secondary entrance to the medieval castle or city walls, which no longer exist.

Today, the austere landscape of Mykonos is still dominated by white houses of pure geometry, dry walls laid stone by stone to mark the boundaries of landowners, and hard-edged rocks. These organic forms always create spectacles of shadow and light under the sun’s rainbow; their footpaths remain magically silent despite the surrounding summer noises; the whitewashed stairs are still lined with fragrant pots of basil and bougainvillea bursting over the balconies. Wild plums, reeds, flowers and prickly pears continue to grow in the fields. The moon shines over the rooftops and lizards spring out of nowhere wherever you go. Every single day is a constant reminder of how lucky one is to live on this island, absorb its energy and leave a footprint on its golden sands. 

Mykonos has undergone a radical transformation from one of the poorest islands in Greece to one of the most glamorous. Its reputation for unbridled hedonism appealed to playboys, aristocrats and bohemians alike, as the harbour teemed with the yachts of Greek shipping tycoons like Aristotle Onassis, who opened a heliport in 1971, and Jacqueline Kennedy. 

Groundbreaking, gender-bending Mykonos became a gay mecca and, perhaps inevitably, a muse for the fashion pack, too. Its bleached alleys and blond beaches provided iconic backdrops for Richard Avedon, Norman Parkinson and, later, Ellen von Unwerth, whose 1991 campaign for Guess featured Claudia Schiffer. Jean-Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Alexander McQueen, Giorgio Armani and Valentino returned every summer with an entourage of cover girls – Pat Cleveland, Fiona von Thyssen and Naomi Campbell. These were the days of a veritable bohemian rhapsody on Mykonos. 

For years, people have been saying Mykonos is over; too crowded, too commercial, the old hands grumble. But this feisty little island, only one-fifth the size of Ibiza, is more popular than ever. The old nudist beaches are now smart beach clubs serving wagyu tartare and designer swimwear; fishing boats have been replaced by superyachts, free camping by butlers at the beach. Traditional tavernas have given way to international A-list chains like Hakkasan. 

Yet, despite the flurry of new villas and hotels that has followed on hard into the 21st century, Mykonos has preserved its character and history, partly because the whole island is protected by a preservation order – each new building must comply with the vernacular style – and partly because the scent of jasmine still lingers in the air. 

The honeyed sands and pure-as-gin sea are as postcard-perfect as ever. Monumental rocks and colossal cacti still sprout from the sunburnt hills. Beyond the neon-bright boutiques of Matoyianni, the Fifth Avenue of Mykonos, you might spy an old lady quietly stitching lace in a flowery nightdress. And if you get up early enough, you’ll find leathery men with impressive whiskers philosophising on the port.   

Chic Stays

July 18, 2018

Jason Wu – Hotel Esencia, Xpu Há, Mexico

Hotel Esencia really feels like a sanctuary. The first time I visited, I arrived at night and was led through these winding, narrow paths to the main whitewashed villa, once the holiday home of an Italian duchess. It really lends itself to the idea of still being that home away from home, which is often easier said than done. 

The owner, Kevin Wendle, has become a close friend. He has impeccable taste and is one of the most generous hosts I know. On that first trip, he gave me a suite on one of the top floors in the house, which is all glass with 360-degree views; there are also little cottages tucked around the surrounding gardens. I woke up that first morning to see the beach, the trees, the lush scenery. It was so incredible to wake up in the middle of all that beauty, when I’m used to waking up in New York City, where it is buildings, buildings, buildings, all skyscrapers and traffic. 

I’m not a beach shack person, and Hotel Esencia is a much more sophisticated spot on the sand. Everything is very refined: the decor, with mid-century furniture and curated art; the food, lots of ceviche and delicious avocado fries; even the tequila. I discovered one brand on my last trip to Hotel Esencia called Casa Dragones, which is so smooth that you sip it from a champagne flute. 

When I’m here, I hardly leave the hotel. This is a place where you just let the day pass, drifting from breakfast to the beach, from lunch to the pool to the spa. When I leave, I stock up on the local oil they use. I love to draw on the beach, and I always take my sketchbook with me – if you look at my resort 2016 lookbook, you can see how Hotel Esencia inspired me, right down to the door. Sometimes to really design, you need there to be nothing crazy going on around you, and Hotel Esencia is exactly where you’ll find that pocket of perfect peace.  

Chic Stays

July 4, 2018

Sofia Coppola – Palazzo Margherita, Bernalda, Italy

There’s a certain parallel between directing a film and creating a hotel. I think that’s why my father is so good at making hotels. He knows that they have a story and how to create an atmosphere; he has that director’s eye for detail. 

Palazzo Margherita is an old noble family’s house, built in 1892, in the very south of Italy. It sits on a square in the town of Bernalda, a little Eden behind these huge wooden doors. My great-grandfather moved from the town to New York over a century ago, and it still feels like Italy from another era, with grandmas’ laundry hanging from balconies and old men sitting on the sidewalk all day. 

Slip off the street, through the gates and into the gardens, and Palazzo Margherita is its own magical world. I could sit in the courtyard all day or with a book by the pool, where the wonderful staff bring platters of fresh fruit – plums, apricots – on crushed ice. In the summer, when it gets really hot, I wander into the kitchen and feast on incredible pasta or a salad of fresh tuna, handfuls of rocket and fine red onions, served on beautiful, hand-painted blue-and-white dishes that my mother chose from a nearby town. Then I pull up a seat at the Cinecitta Bar, named after the legendary Italian movie studio, and drink iced coffee while the jukebox plays old tunes, or wander into town for gelato at Gelateria Novecento. 

I love to stay in suite four, my room, all pretty pinks and greys, with a balcony overlooking the courtyard and a claw-foot tub in the bathroom. Every room in the palazzo has its own personality. The architect, Jacques Grange, restored a lot of original details; beautiful murals, intricate tiling and frescoes on the ceilings. And upstairs, there’s a big salon with a movie screen, where my father has put the whole Martin Scorsese collection of the history of Italian cinema in the library. I remember one time watching a comedy called Sedotta e Abbandonata (Seduced and Abandoned) from 1964. There’s something very romantic about these old Italian films, in this old Italian house – it makes you feel like you’ve stepped into another life. 

Como Cosmopolitan

July 4, 2018 / by Olivia James

Image above: The resplendent Uma Ubud pool by day