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Generation We


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Generation We


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Han Huohuo


Flamboyant Beijing-born fashion icon Han Huohuo (huo means “fire”) worked for the Chinese editions of Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire. His passion for fashion was sparked while serving as an editor for travel magazine Play+, when he began writing for its style section. As his fame
increased with a 2009 photo by American fashion blogger Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist, he moved into TV hosting. On his Weibo account, he has worked with many major brands including Chanel, YSL, Lancôme, Sony and Adidas. He is also the author of two series of books: Fire Bible and Street Shooting. Followers on Weibo: 4.92 million

Han Huohuo


Flamboyant Beijing-born fashion icon Han Huohuo (huo means “fire”) worked for the Chinese editions of Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire. His passion for fashion was sparked while serving as an editor for travel magazine Play+, when he began writing for its style section. As his fame
increased with a 2009 photo by American fashion blogger Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist, he moved into TV hosting. On his Weibo account, he has worked with many major brands including Chanel, YSL, Lancôme, Sony and Adidas. He is also the author of two series of books: Fire Bible and Street Shooting. Followers on Weibo: 4.92 million

 

Han Huohuo

April 29, 2016 / interview by Emily Zhang

A little fun on a shoot in Beijing

A little fun on a shoot in Beijing

Several years ago, Scott Schuman’s photo of you on his famous blog The Sartorialist ended up all over the internet, helping fuel your rise to fame. What does that photo mean to you? 

I remember it was during Milan Fashion Week in February 2009. My friend and I were on the way to another show after Giorgio Armani’s. You know, when Armani’s show finishes, many people need to take a taxi and it’s not easy to catch one. So we jogged down the road. That photo was taken at that moment and we didn’t know about it until we saw it on Style.com the next day. I was very happy at that time, because it was like recognition of my style. But I didn’t know it would change my whole life. 

I met Scott two years after the photo in New York. We still didn’t know each other, but I went up to shake hands with him, saying “Thank you!” He must have thought I was crazy.

Tell us about your experience with Karl Lagerfeld’s The Little Black Jacket exhibition.

For the shoot, Karl took 100 images of people from around the world, half men and half women. But I was the only man invited from mainland China. I was very excited when I was informed about this. Showing in a project with superstars such as Tilda Swinton, Maggie Cheung and Zhou Xun was really exciting for me.

On the day of shooting, I and 20 other people arrived at the studio. We saw the first lady of France eating salad and [German supermodel] Diane Kruger coming to say hi to everyone with a small basket. Everything was so incredible! We did hair and make-up one by one until 4 o’clock in the afternoon, when Karl arrived. He is a cool, lovely man. Everyone’s shot took just a few minutes – it was very quick.

How would you define yourself in one word? 

Fashionista. To be honest, I am willing to do anything related to fashion. No matter if it’s design, modelling, opening a shop or doing a TV programme. Even something that has nothing to do with fashion, I don’t refuse. Why refuse? Why define oneself with only one word? The world is so diverse – why can’t I be a man of diversity? Overall, I can’t find one word to summarise what I am doing.

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A childhood portrait

A childhood portrait

What’s your favourite restaurant right now?

I like street vendors and small restaurants. Any places that make me feel extravagant won’t increase my appetite.

What are three qualities you like in people – and three you don’t?

I like a good personality, kindness and generosity. I don’t like selfishness, pessimism or those who sow discord between people.

You once said that you don’t follow fashion trends, that people should first get to know themselves and then try to find their style. How did you discover your style and how would you describe it?

My personal style is basic. The items that best suit my style are a biker jacket, cropped jeans and a plain-coloured tee. I have made many detours and tried versatile styles. Finally, I found the best for myself.

Taking a rest during his boxing workout

Taking a rest during his boxing workout

Who was your first fashion icon and how did he/she influence you?

Kate Moss. From her, I learned the importance of having basic style items. I learned that even simple items can be stylish. 

Have you ever been criticised for your looks?

I don’t know – I don’t care what others say about me. I am fine and I like what I am now; that’s enough. Those who don’t understand me, they don’t have to.

You’ve been called “Witch Man” for your androgynous, gender-bending style – but it seems you’ve been going for a more masculine look in recent years. Are you? Is the high-heels phase really over?

I never liked the name “Witch Man”, because people who know me know that I’m not androgynous. As for the high heels, I only wore them three times. One was in Paris for shooting, one was on a show on Hunan satellite TV, and the last one was in a studio taking photos with a foreign male model who was much taller than me. Those were all for effect – it’s not the real me.

You’re born and raised in Beijing. Does the city nurture your talent in fashion? 

I have several obvious traits that people from Beijing have. One: I’m not in a hurry, I’m easily satisfied and I don’t expect too much. Two: I don’t care too much about gain or loss; I’m not afraid of being at a disadvantage and I think some pain will be useful one day. Three: I don’t care about other people’s stuff; I live my own life. But if you really piss me off, you will be in trouble.

Posing with his mother

Posing with his mother

How do you foresee China’s fashion industry developing?

Fashion is what I am living for. In China, fashion is not daily life – it’s not a necessity. But more and more people, especially young people in China, have started to care about fashion, so fashion must be a sunrise industry.

Who do you think is the most influential fashion figure in China?

The media.

Name one must-buy item in 2016.

Nothing. I have what I should have; I don’t follow trends. What I am wearing are all fashion trends.

What’s the last fashion items you bought? 

I bought a Tod’s Double T bag, a lot of wide-brimmed hats and a Japanese brand’s checked shirt.

What’s the best advice someone ever gave to you?

Be simple and honest.

You’ve published four Fire Bibles on the styles of the stars – where did the idea come from? Have you considered profiling ordinary people instead of celebrities in future editions?

In 2012, I wanted to do a book, so I thought about making use of my strength, which was street style. Then I decided to take photos of my friends in street style. I wanted to show ordinary people how to dress comfortably and cool. I also wanted to tell people that, instead of following trends, finding your personal style is the best way to show off your characteristics, no matter how the trends change. 

 Picture taken in Paris

 Picture taken in Paris

For personal reasons, I wanted to use the book, which is published once a year, to record the growing-up and the changing
stories of my friends and me. After five or ten years, we could do a big exhibition, displaying how one changes over that period on the wall. I’m moved, just even thinking about it.

Do you prefer working at night or during the day? At home or in a coffee shop? What suits you best, in terms of finding inspiration?

I’m a very lazy person, I don’t like working either at night or during the day, but I have to. When the work comes to you – no matter if it’s day or night, or if you like it or not – you have to do it.

You’ve been invited to so many fashion events over the years – tell us about the most unforgettable ones.

Chanel’s Paris show every year is the most unforgettable for me.

What’s in store for the future? Have you considered expanding into other areas?

I want to have my own brand and open a shop on the internet. I won’t refuse anything. If a director invites me to do a film, I’d be okay with that.

If you were invited to be in a film, what type of role would you expect to play?

I’m willing to play any role except myself. Can you call it drama if you play yourself? It’s boring if you play yourself.

As more and more fashion influencers are making their debuts on social media in China, do you feel challenged by these newcomers to the industry?

I am not worried about that. People have their own destinies. I give them my best wishes.

One of his favourite books on film director Hou Hsiao-hsien

One of his favourite books on film director Hou Hsiao-hsien

中文版

韩火火

早年供职于《COSMOPOLITAN》(《时尚》)、《Marie Claire》等国际时尚杂志。2009年时装周上,因为出挑的街拍造型获得美国著名街拍摄影师Scott Schuman的关注,将他的街拍照片放到网上,一举成名。之后火火受邀参加各种娱乐类节目,担任嘉宾主持。之后在 “老佛爷” Karl Lagerfeld掌镜的“The Little Black Jacket”展览中,作为中国内地唯一受邀的时尚人士参与拍摄。他先后与Adidas、YSL、SONY、Lancome、CHANEL等国际知名一线品牌合作,更出版了《Fire Bible》系列街拍作品。
微博粉丝数:494万

 

几年前Scott Schuman对你的街拍让你成为时尚界的宠儿,他当时拍那张照片的时候你知道吗?你是怎么知道那张照片火了?自己第一反应是什么?你和Scott Schuman之后有见面吗?

印象里那是2009年2月的米兰时装周,我和朋友从Giorgio Armani的秀散场准备去打车赶下一场。散场人很多,车难打,所以我们几乎是小跑着,这张照片也是这时被抓拍到的,我们并不知情。直到第二天在Style.com上看到,才知道。当时觉得很开心,毕竟是一种认可。也没想那么多,也想不到这张照片能改变我的人生轨迹。

过了两年我在纽约见过一次Scott,我们仍然不认识,但我跑过去和他握手,说了一声谢谢,我想他应该以为我疯了吧。
 

能聊一聊“老佛爷”的“The Little Black Jacket”展览吗?

这个项目老佛爷拍了世界各地100余人,男女各半。我是国内唯一一个被邀请的男生。当时知道这个消息我很兴奋,Tilda Swinton、张曼玉、周迅……能和那么多偶像级的大明星一起出现在一个项目里,很兴奋。

拍摄当天,我们补拍的21个人很早就到了影棚,没有工作人员陪伴,一会儿看到法国总统夫人在旁边吃沙拉,一会儿黛安娜·克鲁格(德国超模)挎着小篮子进来和所有人打招呼,简直太穿越了,大家流水线集体妆发,直到下午4点,老佛爷才到达,很酷很可爱的一位老人,每个人的拍摄都在几分钟之内,很快。
 

用一个词定义你自己? 

坦白讲,和时尚相关的事,我都愿意做,设计可以,模特可以,开店可以,录节目可以,我都不拒绝。甚至和时尚无关的事,我也都不抗拒。为什么要抗拒呢?为什么一定要用一个词来归纳自己呢?世界这么多元,我不可以是个多元的人吗?总之,我找不到一个词,来概括我做的所有事。
 

你每天的日程安排是?

按照公司安排的行程走。
 

别人身上的哪三种品质最打动你?哪三种你最不喜欢?

喜欢的是人品好、善良、不计较。
不喜欢的是自私、消极、挑拨是非。
 

你曾经说过你从来都不跟潮流,你觉得人应该先认清自己然后在找到属于自己的style。你如何找到你的style?你怎么描述你的风格?

我的风格很基本,最符合我风格的标配就是机车夹克、9分牛仔裤、素Tee。我走了很多弯路,尝试过很多风格,终于,找到了这种最适合我自己的。
 

你的第一个时尚偶像是谁?他/她是如何影响你?

Kate Moss,从她身上我知道了基本款的重要,知道了原来简单的东西也可以穿出味道。
 

你的风格会经常被人批评吗?

不知道,我不关注于别人的评价。我自己过的很好,我很喜欢现在的自己,就够了。不懂你的人,也不必懂。
 

你曾被称为“妖男”, 但你近年来的风格越来越展示很男人的一面,有吗?那你曾经爱的那些高跟鞋呢?

没有喜欢过“妖男”这个称呼,因为熟悉我的朋友都知道我并不妖。至于大家看到的高跟鞋,我穿过三次,一次是在巴黎拍摄,一次是在快乐大本营录影,一次是在影棚拍摄和一个外国男模合照,由于比他矮太多才穿。这些都是为了节目效果和话题,不是真的我。
 

你是土生土长的北京人,这座城市对你的影响是?

我身上有北京人身上很显著的几个特点:1、我不着急,知足常乐,想要的不多。2、我不计较,不怕吃亏,吃亏是福。3、我混不吝,会闷头过自己的日子,但如果把我惹急了,你就惨了。
 

对你来说什么是时尚?你如何看中国的时尚行业发展?

时尚是我的饭碗。在中国,时尚目前还不是衣食住行,不是必备生活条件。但越来越多的人,特别是年轻人开始在意时尚,因此,时尚一定是朝阳产业。
 

你觉得对中国时尚界最有影响力的人是谁?

媒体。
 

2016年一定要买的单品是?

没有,该买的东西都买了,我不追潮流,潮流什么样,我穿的都是那样。
 

你最近购买的时尚单品是?

新买了Tod's的Double T Bag,还有很多宽檐帽,还有一个日本品牌的格纹衬衫。
 

你收到的最好的建议是?

平实。
 

你已经出版了四期《Fire Bible》,怎么想到做这个系列?这个系列里面都是明星的搭配,有考虑过在未来拍摄更多普通人吗?

2012年,想做一本书,于是想到了用我最擅长的街拍造型拍我身边的朋友,告诉老百姓怎么穿的舒适、有范儿。也告诉他们,天天追趋势,不如找到风格。有了风格,管他趋势怎么变,都能穿出自己的味道。私心的角度,一本书,每年一本,用来记录我和身边的朋友,记录我们的成长和变化,想想五年后,十年后,做个大展览,一个人的五年或十年挂在一面墙上,想想都感动。
 

你是喜欢晚上工作还是白天?在家还是咖啡厅?哪个地方更能让你获得创作灵感?

我懒,白天和晚上都不喜欢工作,但必须工作,必须工作的时候,不管白天还是晚上,哪由得你喜欢或不喜欢。
 

参加过这么多时尚活动,印象最深刻的是?

Chanel每年的巴黎大秀,都是印象最深刻的。


未来的计划是什么?有考虑过向其他领域发展吗 ?

做自己的品牌,开个网店。其实我对任何事情都不抗拒,如果一个导演让我去演电影,我也OK。
 

如果你被邀请拍一部电影,你会希望是什么电影?什么角色?最想和哪个演员合作?

除了本色出演,其他都愿意挑战。演自己那还叫演戏吗?没劲。

当越来越多的潮人开始在新媒体大展身手,在微博微信上开辟新天地, 引领时尚时,你会担心自己的地位受到挑战吗?

不担心,人各有命。并送上祝福。

 

 

Images: Han Huohuo

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Gogoboi


One of the most influential fashion bloggers in China, Ye Si, better known as Gogoboi, is a front-row fixture renowned for his witty commentary. He undertook a series of jobs after graduation before landing a role as junior fashion features editor for the Chinese edition of Italian Grazia. Named to the Business of Fashion 500 list, he works across various platforms collaborating with top brands including Chanel, Christian Dior, Uniqlo and H&M. Followers on Weibo: 5.21 million

 

Gogoboi


One of the most influential fashion bloggers in China, Ye Si, better known as Gogoboi, is a front-row fixture renowned for his witty commentary. He undertook a series of jobs after graduation before landing a role as junior fashion features editor for the Chinese edition of Italian Grazia. Named to the Business of Fashion 500 list, he works across various platforms collaborating with top brands including Chanel, Christian Dior, Uniqlo and H&M. Followers on Weibo: 5.21 million

 

 

Gogoboi 

April 29, 2016 / interview by Selena Li

Gogoboi strikes a pose

Gogoboi strikes a pose

When did you realise that you were no longer just writing something on Weibo, but becoming a real fashion blogger?

About four or five years ago, when a client approached me and invited me to post a paid Weibo post. I only had 7,000 followers at that time. 

Are you influenced by readers’ reactions, such as the hits or page views of a post? Between the desire to say whatever you want to say and your readers’ preferences, which one is more important to you?

I am influenced. This is my job, not my personal interest. I am satisfied because readers are satisfied.

How long does it take to prepare a post on Weibo? What is the longest time you’ve ever spent?

Summarising clothing on a Korean television series takes the longest time. I once worked with my assistant on such a post – it took three whole days.

Among your “Year-End Summary” series, which one was your favourite?

My favourite one was the exhibition tour. Only at that moment did I feel I was promoting knowledge instead of just judging someone.

What conditions suit you best in terms of finding inspiration?

Actually, I think what I am writing is not a novel or prose; it’s not a literary creation, so I don’t need inspiration. To some degree, I am more like a librarian or a cashier. Practice makes perfect and I just do my job one step at a time. 

You’ve admitted that you are a latecomer to the WeChat platform. Do you still find it difficult to manage now?

It’s not that difficult to manage; the key is to find balance. There are some rules for those popular articles on the WeChat platform. But if you only care about page views, you will be trapped by those conventional patterns, losing your personal style and personality. So for me, finding the balance between being popular and being myself is not easy.

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Before the fame: his middle school ID photo

Before the fame: his middle school ID photo

How do you assign work to your assistants?

I’ve got several assistants who are responsible for research. I’m not a good boss and I always lose my temper, shouting at them.

Apart from reading press releases, how do you ensure you know the biggest news in the industry every day?

There’s no big news in fashion. So you won’t regret it, even if you miss it.

Among all your posts, what is the breakdown of paid promotional articles and hard-core fashion reviews? Do you have a proportion for these different types of content?

The amount of editorial content and promotional articles should be balanced. There should be no more than one promotional article and the amount of editorial content must be more than the promotional articles.

When brands contact you, what are your criteria when selecting partners?

My personal preference. If I really don’t like the brand, I will definitely refuse to work with them.

The first time those really big brands approached you, how did you feel?

I felt like, “You are so stingy.”

Outside his favourite fashion event: Chanel’s show in Dubai

Outside his favourite fashion event: Chanel’s show in Dubai

When you discuss the paid promotional articles with brands, are there brainstorming sessions? If disagreements arise, do brands take your advice and adjust their campaigns accordingly?

There are no brainstorming sessions. They do send me related materials, but I create the content based on my own thoughts and style. Sometimes I offer ideas and advice on their campaign strategy, but they definitely don’t change it. Because almost every campaign of each brand is decided by their head office, it won’t be influenced by me.

In a BoF interview, you said very directly that it’s important to make money in this industry – and at the end of the interview you said you wanted to make 100 million RMB. What is the nature of your profession?

Just like everyone else – making money.

You said in another interview: “Since I became a fashion blogger, I did many things which I hadn’t even dared to dream about. I can sit and talk with Gisele Bündchen like we’re friends; my favourite beautiful girl, [K-pop singer] Yoona, I can meet her and she even gestured at me during her concert… it’s all very magical.” If you had to list your top three experiences, what would they be? Would the flight experience with IWC be one of them?

I can’t list the top three, because everything is incredible. When all those people you can’t reach before become normal people in your daily life and all the places you dreamed about become so ordinary, just like Starbucks… the flight experience with IWC was nothing compared to some of the others.

Having fun with his friends

Having fun with his friends

Do you have any fashion blogger friends? Or do you just communicate regarding business? Is it an exclusive circle?

I don’t have a personal relationship with other bloggers and I don’t discuss business with them, because I am an otaku and I don’t make friends outside. I don’t think there’s a circle for fashion bloggers, because we work independently.

Who is your favourite foreign fashion blogger? 

I don’t have any favourite foreign fashion bloggers, but I have designers I admire.

Your lovely dog has been shown on Weibo more than you. Can showing your face attract more fans?

I can’t attract more fans with my face. At the start, every time I showed my image on Weibo, I lost fans – but now I won’t lose fans when showing my images. The key is that I learned a good command of Photoshop. 

You said in an interview: “Since I became a fashion blogger, I did many things which I hadn’t even dared to dream about. I can sit and talk with Gisele Bündchen like we’re friends; my favourite beautiful girl, [K-pop singer] Yoona, I can meet her and she even gestured at me during her concert… it’s all very magical.” If you had to list your top three experiences, what would they be? Would the flight experience with IWC be one of them?

I can’t list the top three, because everything is incredible. When all those people you can’t reach before become normal people in your daily life and all the places you dreamed about become so ordinary just like Starbucks… the flight experience with IWC is nothing compared to some of the others.

Hard at work on his Weibo

Hard at work on his Weibo

In the BoF interview, you said very directly that it’s important to make money in this industry – and at the end of the interview you said you wanted to make 100 million RMB. What is the nature of your profession?

Just like everyone else – making money.

Do you have any fashion blogger friends? Or do you just communicate regarding business? Is it an exclusive circle?

I don’t have a personal relationship with other bloggers and I don’t discuss business with them, because I am an otaku and I don’t make friends outside. I don’t think there’s a circle for fashion bloggers, because we work independently.

Who is your favourite foreign fashion blogger? 

I don’t have any favourite foreign fashion bloggers, but I have designers I admire. 

There are many fashion bloggers out there, but not much original content. When you find your articles being plagiarised, do you get angry? Have you ever tried any effective ways to report them or give a warning?

Actually, fashion bloggers write articles themselves, but some websites and media platforms like to plagiarise. In the past, when I noticed someone copying my articles, I was so angry. But now, I don’t care. All I have to focus on is doing my own job well.

You frequently go to Paris and Milan. How do you see Shanghai in terms of it emerging as China’s fashion hub?

First of all, I don’t think everyone in New York or Paris is fashionable. Some of them in Paris and Milan are so out of date. Some fashionable people in Shanghai are as good as their counterparts in those places. But on the whole, we’re not better than them in terms of fashion. This is a problem of education. People in those places think dressing nicely is a way of showing respect to others. It’s an important and proud thing to do. But Chinese parents always tell their kids to only focus on studying and not to get distracted by dressing, that it’s not an appropriate thing for children.

His most relaxing spot at home: in front of his TV with toys from the anime One Piece

His most relaxing spot at home: in front of his TV with toys from the anime One Piece

You worked for fashion magazines before and remarked that you can’t always say good things about celebrities – that you have to be critical. What do you think about fashion magazines that are saying harsh things now? Are you worried about being upstaged by these bloggers for the new-style fashion magazines?

No one will be replaced. I think if you have talent, there will be a stage for you.

As for your collaboration with Chinese lifestyle brand The Beast, why did you decide to make a cup?

Because making a cup is easy – I just wanted to give it a try. I will have products with more advanced techniques in the future.

How do you handle meeting celebrities that you’ve criticised before?

Our relationship is not as bad as you think. In the world of adults, there is no such thing as hostility; we are just working.

Your Weibo tag is “Going forward into the fire of the stupid fans.” In the conversation with Kris Wu, you said that you can’t understand his fans – “How can they unconditionally love someone they have never met?” Apart from the pressure from stars’ agencies, the criticism of their fans must also be very harsh, right?

I totally understand their fans, so no matter what they say, I don’t care at all.

You have done many video interviews and you have a stable partnership with Tecent. What has been the most satisfying video interview for you?

It’s not easy to do video interviews. Because of some restrictions of some objective conditions, there’s not one that has satisfied me yet. I always want to do random interviews, but I have tried many times and they aren’t good. 

Describe an average day in the life of Gogoboi.

I get up at 6am and have breakfast. Then I go back to sleep and get up again at around 11am. I work until 11pm, then watch several episodes of Japanese animation and American TV shows, and go to bed around 3 in the morning.

What would people be surprised to learn about you? 

I hate travelling and am a super-geek. Whenever I don’t need to travel, I stay at home. I don’t party, don’t have a social life, live on takeaway. I once stayed at home for three whole days without stepping outside my door at all.

If you could dress up any celebrity, who would it be?

Probably Fan Bingbing. She has the ultimate beauty, yet her style doesn’t do her beauty justice.

What’s the best advice someone ever gave you?

When I was struggling with my writing, my boss, who was the editor-in-chief of the magazine I worked for at the time, said to me: “Don’t take it too seriously. There is nothing complicated about fashion. In time, you will get it.”

Choose three words to describe yourself.

Incredibly long legs.

中文版

Gogoboi

因为在微博上发表对明星着装和时装界的犀利点评,叶嗣(又名Gogoboi)已成为中国当下最有影响的时尚力量之一,更以博主身份出现在各类时装秀前排。他曾任职于中国版《红秀GRAZIA》杂志,担任时装专题助理编辑。开设微博账号Gogoboi后,已拥有百万粉丝。2014年,Gogoboi入围《时装商业评论》(Business of Fashion)评选的“全球时尚影响力500人”(BoF500)。现在,Gogoboi与各品牌保持密切合作,是中国当下最受欢迎和最有影响力的时尚博主之一。
使用平台:微博、微信、Instagram
微博粉丝数:524万

 

什么时候开始意识到自己不是简单找个微博写写东西,而被正式称为“时尚博主

大概四五年前,有客户找上门说要出钱让我帮他们发微博,那时候我的微博粉丝只有7000多。


发布内容的随心所欲程度会不会随着对点击/分享量的追求而逐步递减?哪一个更重要,自己写的开心还是粉丝看得爽快?

会的。这毕竟是我的工作,而不是我的兴趣爱好,大家爽我才爽。


一条微博,从构思到发布,最长需要花费多长时间

最费时间的是韩剧时装盘点,有一次我跟助理两人三天三夜废寝忘食才做完一条微博。


在什么时间段/地理位置/身体状况获取灵感最多?

其实我觉得我写的东西不是小说不是散文,算不上文学创作,所以不太需要灵感。某种程度上更像图书管理员或收银员的工作,熟能生巧、按部就班就好了。


视觉效果对一条推文来说是重中之重-你之前大方承认转战微信平台的时候是个后来者,现在还会觉得难以驾驭吗?表达的方式有没有作出相应的改变?

不至于难以驾驭,关键问题在于取舍。其实微信上的爆款文章是有迹可循的,但是如果一味地追求阅读量就会陷入俗套的深渊,失去自己的风格和个性。所以,对我来说比较难的是在受欢迎和做自己之间找到平衡。


你的团队里有两个全职的编辑,你怎么安排他们的工作

没有编辑,编辑的活儿都是我在做。有几个助理,负责找资料之类的。我不算个好老板,总是发脾气,骂骂骂。


除了看完发来的公关稿,还有什么诀窍能确保不错过今天时尚界的重磅新闻吗?

时尚界没有重磅新闻,错过了也完全不可惜。


每天各个平台的发布里,软性的内容和纯粹的时尚评论分别占几成?

编辑内容和广告内容会保持平衡,每天不多于一篇广告,编辑内容一定要比广告多。


那些“高大上”的品牌第一次主动联系你谈合作的时候,你的心情是怎样的

我的心情是:原来你们这么抠门啊……


筛选合作的品牌,最主要的参考标准是什么?

根据我自己的喜好,如果实在不欣赏的品牌,就绝对不合作。


与品牌合作,如果要写一个系列的话,会与品牌一起头脑风暴吗?他们会不会也常听从你的建议修改campaign的方案?

不会头脑风暴。他们会发资料给我,具体的内容要根据我自己的想法和风格来做。有时候我会给他们的campaign提想法和意见,但他们绝对不会改,因为几乎所有的品牌的campaign都是由总部决定的,不是我们能左右的。


什么时候发现露脸涨粉更快?还是完照片真的有成为明星的感觉让你欲罢不能?

露脸从来不会给我涨粉。最开始每发一次自己的照片就会掉不少粉,现在发照片不掉了。分水岭就是我熟练地掌握了photoshop技术。


你曾在采访中说“当博主以来,好多以前连做梦也不敢想的事情,都成了现实。”如果需要排出前三的话,哪些是博主最梦幻的经验?

排不出前三,因为一切都太不真实了,那些遥不可及的人都变成了生活里的普通人,那些做梦也到不了的地方变得跟星巴克一样平常。


你在BOF的采访里说的很直接,这是门生意,赚钱很重要,文章末尾说你要赚一个亿。这与“时尚博主的升级版是有钱人”这样的回答如出一辙。你的工作的本质是什么?

和所有人工作的本质都是一样的,挣钱。


与博主圈里的其他人是私交为主,还是业务沟通更多?

既没有私交,也没有业务沟通,我是个宅男,平时不出去交朋友。我也不觉得博主有个圈子,大家都是各自为战。


欣赏的国外同行有谁?

有欣赏的设计师,但是没有欣赏的同行,也不认识什么国外同行。


时尚博主很多,原创内容很少,看到抄袭的时候会不会有掀桌的冲动?

其实博主们大部分的内容都是原创的,反倒是那些网站媒体爱抄袭内容。以前看到别人抄袭我的东西会非常生气,但现在无所谓了。只要把自己的工作做好就够了。


常去纽约巴黎米兰的你,怎么看上海作为中国的时尚之都的后发优势/先天不足?

首先,我不觉得纽约巴黎米兰的人多时髦,巴黎米兰很多人都很村,上海的潮人一点不输他们。但整体来说,会有差距。这是个教育的问题。他们觉得打扮得好看是对别人的尊重,是一件重要的、值得骄傲的事情。而我们爸妈从小就教育我们,要好好学习,喜欢打扮是不正经,衣服够穿就好了。


之前在杂志呆过,你觉得不能一味的只说明星穿得好,评论要犀利,要critical。现在偶尔也能看见杂志编辑毒舌,他们也在进步,他们的微信公众号越来越会卖萌,怕不怕时尚杂志2.0会干掉博主们?

没有谁干掉谁。我觉得,有才华就应该有施展的舞台。.


时尚生活品牌“野兽派”的联乘:为什么想到做杯子?

因为比较简单,做个试水,之后会出比较有技术含量的东西。


和常批评的艺人们见面,如何挤出一个真诚的微笑?

我们的关系没你们想的那么恶劣,并且成年人的世界里也没有苦大仇深的事,大家都是工作。


会埋怨自己性格里的宅属性吗?会不会想象如果自己特别长袖善舞,事业会更上一个台阶?

得到的已经超乎想象了,不会埋怨。如果特别八面玲珑,估计也不会走到这一天。


视频做了好多期了,也跟腾讯有特别稳定的合作关系,目前最满意的视频采访是?进军主持界之后会不会特别享受用随机提问去拷问来的明星们?

视频采访,一言难尽。由于我自己的先天因素,由于客观条件的制约,目前没有做出一期满意的。我最想做的就是随机提问,但是试过几次,效果极差。
 

你每天的日程安排是什么?

我早上6点起床然后吃早饭。之后再睡个回笼觉直到11点。之后看几集日本动画和美剧。我每天大概凌晨3点睡觉。
 

关于你的什么事情会让人大吃一惊?

我讨厌旅行,还有我其实超级宅。只要不旅行我就会呆在家里。我不参加聚会,也没有什么社交活动,每天都吃外卖。我有一次呆在家里三天三夜不出门。
 

如果可以给一位名人做造型,你会选择谁?

范冰冰。她非常漂亮,但她的穿衣风格并没有衬托她的美。
 

你收到的最好的建议是?

以前当我因为写作抓狂时,我当时工作的杂志的主编曾对我说:“不要太纠结。时尚没什么难的。以后你就会知道了。”

用简单的词形容自己。

无敌长腿。

 

 

Images: Gogoboi

head.jpg

Shiliupo


Chengdu-born Cheng Yan graduated from Fudan University in Shanghai. She initially worked for the Shanghai Morning Post reporting on international political news. In 2007, she started her Sina blog and in 2011 opened her WeChat public account–the Shiliupo Report, featuring style news, dressing tips and Hollywood gossip. She was named The Most Influential We Media in 2015 by the Chinese press. Despite receiving numerous awards, she refuses to collect them in person, preferring to remain out of the spotlight; she also doesn’t show her face on public platforms. Followers on WeChat: 1 million

Shiliupo


Chengdu-born Cheng Yan graduated from Fudan University in Shanghai. She initially worked for the Shanghai Morning Post reporting on international political news. In 2007, she started her Sina blog and in 2011 opened her WeChat public account–the Shiliupo Report, featuring style news, dressing tips and Hollywood gossip. She was named The Most Influential We Media in 2015 by the Chinese press. Despite receiving numerous awards, she refuses to collect them in person, preferring to remain out of the spotlight; she also doesn’t show her face on public platforms. Followers on WeChat: 1 million

 

Shiliupo

April 29, 2016 / interview by Emily Zhang

Shiliupo is participating a fashion event held by Hermes

Shiliupo is participating a fashion event held by Hermes

You’re known to be very unpretentious and you seldom appear in front of the media. Why do you choose to stay so low-key in such an extravagant, generally outspoken profession?

I’m different from foreign bloggers who post their outfits and show their faces. I’m a text worker. It’s unnecessary for me to show my image to readers. 

After transforming from a political journalist into a fashion blogger, what was the most challenging thing for you?

I think it’s not that challenging for me, because I’m not an expert in fashion, which allows me to observe and discuss fashion as a layman. For readers, they feel close to me and it is one of my characteristics.

Your followers love your sense of aesthetics.

I’m a bit rational and think like a man. I won’t consider a dress to be nice on normal people just because it looks nice on a celebrity; I also won’t let my own preference for any celebrity influence my judgment on his/her style taste. That’s also what many readers say about me: neutral and gentle.

Apart from fashion and Hollywood gossip, you’ve also explored adding the topic of travel. Are you planning to open additional WeChat accounts to discuss other themes?

I haven’t had the time and strength to do that so far.

Read More

Shiliupo and her daughter travel to the Maldives

Shiliupo and her daughter travel to the Maldives

How would you describe your personal style?

Simple and comfortable, maximising favourable factors and minimising the unfavourable ones. For those who are fond of styling themselves, it might seem conventional and lacking in creativeness.

What’s your one go-to dress?

An A-line dress without sleeves. It’s more dignified than a shoulder-strap dress and more high-standard than a dress with sleeves.

Who are your style icons?

I pay attention to many European celebrities who have good style. Some of them may know how to style themselves for a while, but they may have a poor performance later. Some of them may dress nicely when they go on the red carpet, but they perform badly on street shoots. I don’t think there’s one style icon for me.

If you could only purchase one fashion item this season, what would it be?

I would buy a shoulder strap from Fendi’s Strap You collection, because bags with wide straps will be very popular this year.

  Shiliupo’s handiwork at a cultural event held by Hermès in South Korea

 

Shiliupo’s handiwork at a cultural event held by Hermès in South Korea

Many influential fashion bloggers have expanded into other areas such as TV hosting, acting and modelling. Do you have plans to develop in other fields? 

I want to do something related to the career development of young women, because I think women in their 20s are confused about their career development. Unfortunately, I don’t have enough time and strength to do it.

What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you?

I’m not very interested in shopping.

What traits have helped you most in your career in new media?

That would be my writing skills gained from years of experience as an international journalist. It helps me write simply and express myself logically. In this web age, when people don’t want to spend too much time on reading, concise and pithy words are more easily accepted.

What’s the best advice someone ever gave you?

I can’t say one specific piece of advice, but the best advice I receive is from my readers, who give me feedback every day.

What’s the top tip you have for anyone wanting to start a fashion blog?

Think about your own strengths. Try to write content and story angles that are different from other fashion blogs.

When brands approach you about collaborating, how do you select potential partners? Do you have any specific criteria?

My partner brands range from luxury cars to supermarket shampoos. They can be any good brands that my readers are interested in. There are exceptions: 99% of e-commerce platforms (because  I can’t ensure there are no fake products); unknown brands (I don’t have the power to determine their quality and service level); brands with bad credit; and any items that may bring harm or risk to my readers, such as medical beauty, weight loss or financial investment products.

Gifts given by Dior to Shiliupo

Gifts given by Dior to Shiliupo

Many bloggers write paid promotional articles, but they often lead to a loss of fans. However, you have a special column for that and it has been very popular. How do you manage to do that in a space where many other bloggers have failed?

I guess some bloggers lose fans for promotional articles because they are doing invisible advertisements, which give people the feeling of being cheated. My promotional articles are denoted by the word “sponsored” on the headline. When readers see them, they know it is an advertisement. That won’t make them feel bad about it. Also, apart from the advertisement information at the end of the article, I will ensure 90% content of every promotional article is about fashion and gossip – just like the first articles of my everyday post. 

Tell us about the process when you discuss the paid promotional articles with brands. Are there brainstorming sessions? Disagreements must arise from time to time – how do you negotiate those situations?

Brands provide promotional materials, then I offer direction to write the articles; clients may require me to change that direction. Once they confirm it, I make adjustments on the first draft according to their advice. Finally, I post it.

If it won’t affect the quality of the entire article, I generally agree to make adjustments. On the whole, the process is not that difficult. When clients choose an account with such a clear personal style as mine, they know readers have already accepted my style – and they usually respect that.

A young Shiliupo (left) and her cousin

A young Shiliupo (left) and her cousin

How much time do you spend preparing topics for your blog? How far in advance do you plan?

I can’t plan in advance, because I am so busy every day. In the morning I read the news and think about topics. In the afternoon, I look for pictures and start to write after dinner. I post around 8 and write promotional articles for the next day at night. I work at least 13 hours every day.

How do you keep up on all the information that’s flying around in the fashion and entertainment arenas?

I read several websites in the morning about entertainment and fashion. It has something to do with my experience as an international journalist, which required me to collect enough information on websites around the world in short time.

Rumours abound that your public WeChat account is not personally operated, but run by a professional team. To what extent is that true? Do you have a team that helps you? Does your husband work with you on the business?

I have two assistants: one helps me find photos and do photo puzzles, and the other one is responsible for advertisement collaborations. I write every single word on the WeChat myself. I also read and reply to the comments on the back stage. Technically, we are not a professional team. My husband has his own job; he will give me some advice and sometimes he will help me handle some social occasions.

Define your target audience.

People who are optimistic, with no bad thoughts of others, and with a sense of humour.

Have there been any posts you found quite interesting and engaging, but that fell flat with readers?

When I tried some new topics, such as discussion about social issues, they weren’t that popular. But I don’t feel disappointed, because readers come to my account for fashion and gossip. I’m lucky enough to be able to write about topics that I am interested in – and I stubbornly post them up.

中文版

石榴婆

“石榴婆报告”是中国很多年轻女性每日必读的公众号。她背后的运营者程艳,曾供职于上海新闻晨报,是个生活在上海的“川妹子”。她从2007年开始使用新浪博客,2011年开通微信公众帐号“石榴婆报告”,分享好莱坞八卦和时尚资讯。“石榴婆报告”因为风趣幽默的写作风格吸引了大量订阅人群,与各大知名品牌保持合作。
微信粉丝数:约100万

 

作为时尚博主,你很少在媒体镜头前曝光。是刻意保持低调吗?

和国外那些秀穿搭的博主不同,我是文字工作者。我的形象不属于需要提供给读者的那一部分。
 

从国际新闻记者转型到时尚博主,最大的挑战是什么?

还好,我不大懂时尚这件事本身,这就决定了我可以从门外汉的角度来观察和评价时尚,这是我的一大特点,对读者来说也更有贴近性。
 

你的读者都很喜欢你的审美品位,你是从哪里得到的启发?

因为我比较理性吧,思维偏男性化。我不大会因为某位女星穿某款裙子好看,就认定那款裙子穿在我们普通人身上也会好看;也不会让自己对这位明星的个人喜好影响到对她穿着的客观评价。

这也是很多读者给我的评价:中立、温和。
 

除了时尚和八卦,你也尝试过旅行等新话题。有计划开设其他微信公众号讨论不同主题吗?

目前没有这个精力。
 

请谈一谈你自己的穿衣风格。

简单舒服,扬长避短。在爱打扮的妹子看来,可能会觉得保守、缺乏新意。
 

你的“go-to”造型是?

无袖A字连衣裙,因为我觉得它比吊带裙端庄,又比有袖子的感觉高级。
 

谁是你的时尚偶像?

我会关注很多会打扮的欧美女星,她们可能最近很会穿、过段时间又滑坡了;可能红毯上会穿,街拍一般……“时尚偶像”好像谈不上。
 

如果你今年只能买一件时尚单品,你会买什么?

我会买Fendi的strap you肩带,因为今年粗带子的包包会非常流行。
 

很多时尚博主事业发展到一定阶段都会向不同领域拓展,例如主持、表演甚至走秀。你有拓展自己事业的计划吗?

我很想做一些关于年轻女性职业发展的话题,因为觉得很多20多岁的女生在这方面非常迷茫。遗憾的是我目前实在没有多余的精力。
 

你有什么事情会让人大吃一惊?

我自己对买买买并没有很大的兴趣。
 

你身上的什么技能对于你的新媒体事业帮助最多?

应该是多年国际新闻记者的写作技能,它促使我的文字更简练、表达清晰有逻辑。在大家都非常懒得花时间阅读的网络时代,言简意赅的文字比较能被接受。
 

你收到的最好的建议是?

具体哪条说不出,我最好的建议都来自我的读者,她们每天都在给我反馈。
 

对于希望开设时尚公众号的朋友,你最想给出的建议是什么?

想想看自己的长处在哪里,是否能够挖掘出一些与现在已有的时尚博主不同的角度和内容。哪怕很小众,但形成自己与众不同的风格,才能吸引忠实的读者。
 

品牌找你合作时,你是如何筛选的?有没有自己的参考标准?

我合作的品牌从豪车到超市洗发水都有,只要是读者可能会感兴趣的知名品牌都行。

除了以下这些:99%的电商平台(因为我无法保证是否有假货)、不知名品牌(因为我没有精力去判断对方的质量和客服水平)、徒有虚名或者网上很多负面评价的品牌、医疗美容减肥和金融投资等可能给读者带来风险的项目。
 

很多博主都因为写软文掉粉,而你不仅有自己的推广专栏,还因为写推广更受欢迎。你是如何做到的?

我猜有博主因此掉粉主要是因为做隐形广告,让人看到后面有上当的感觉。我的广告都在标题注明“推广”,读者在点进来之前,已经有心理预期,知道这是一篇广告。这让读者不至于产生排斥心理。

另外,除了文末广告部分,我保证每篇广告至少90%的内容是和平时微信头条文章性质差不多的时尚和八卦内容,这让读者从不排斥到喜欢看。
 

你和品牌讨论推广的工作流程是什么?有没有进行头脑风暴?如果和品牌意见不合,你们怎么协调?

商家提供要推广的内容资料——我提出一个广告文案撰写方向(客户可能会要求换一个方向)——对方确认后开始写——根据客户的修改意见对初稿进行修改——发布。

分歧主要来自于初稿修改阶段,比如客户可能要求增加对商品的介绍,我拒绝客户提出的一些看起来很夸张的广告语等等。

在不降低整篇文章质量的前提下,我会同意进行一些修改。总的来说这个过程也不算费劲,因为既然客户选择了我这样一个个人色彩鲜明的账号,知道这里的读者对我的风格的认可,那么一般都会尊重我的风格。
 

每天需要花多长时间准备推送的文章?通常提前多久做选题?

没有办法提前准备,因为每天都太忙。每天上午看新闻、想选题,下午找图片,晚饭后开始写,8点发布,晚上写第二天的广告。每天工作时间不少于13个小时。
 

怎么确保获得全面的时尚、娱乐资讯?

我每天上午会看几个娱乐和时尚类的网站。这跟之前做国际新闻记者的经历也有关系,国际新闻记者必须在短时间内在世界各地的网站上搜集足够多的信息。
 

有传言说你的微信公众号石榴婆报告””已经不是自己在运营,而是一个专业团队的产品。是这样吗?你背后是否有团队?你先生也有参与这个账号的运营吗?

我有两个助理,一个帮我找图拼图,一个洽谈广告。微信上的每一个字都是我自己写的,后台的留言都是我自己看并回复的。称不上什么专业团队吧。

我老公有他自己的工作,但他会给我一些建议,有时候出面去应付一些社交场合。
 

简单描述你的目标读者

对生活感到乐观,对他人没有恶意,有幽默感。

在撰写文章过程中有没有遇到过自己觉得很有趣但读者反响却一般的情况?

我尝试的一些新话题阅读量会没那么高,比如一些社会话题的讨论。但我不会因此感到失望。我知道读者是冲着时尚和八卦来的,我能非常任性地硬塞给他们我自己感兴趣的话题,已经非常幸运了。

 

Images: Shiliupo

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Peter Xu


Peter Xu is considered a “key opinion leader” in the Chinese fashion scene; a stylist, magazine columnist, TV host and a former rapper, the Jiangsu Province-born entrepreneur, worked as marketing manager for L’Oréal in Shanghai, before starting a Weibo account. He contributes to CosmopolitanMadame Figaro and 1626, and has established his own studio which maintains close ties with top brands including Dior, Versace, Emilio Pucci and the Kering Group. He photographs fashion shows and has shot for Vogue Latin AmericaL’Officiel, Luisa Via Roma, Farfetch, KTZ and others. Followers on Weibo: 2.31 million

Peter Xu


Peter Xu is considered a “key opinion leader” in the Chinese fashion scene; a stylist, magazine columnist, TV host and a former rapper, the Jiangsu Province-born entrepreneur, worked as marketing manager for L’Oréal in Shanghai, before starting a Weibo account. He contributes to CosmopolitanMadame Figaro and 1626, and has established his own studio which maintains close ties with top brands including Dior, Versace, Emilio Pucci and the Kering Group. He photographs fashion shows and has shot for Vogue Latin AmericaL’Officiel, Luisa Via Roma, Farfetch, KTZ and others. Followers on Weibo: 2.31 million

 

Peter Xu

April 29, 2016 / interview by Emily Zhang

One of Peter’s favourite recent street shots

One of Peter’s favourite recent street shots

You’re quite different from many fashion bloggers on Weibo and WeChat who came from a media background – you used to work in marketing and education. What was the biggest challenge when you changed your path?

Actually, I had some experience in media. I had been a deejay on the radio and a bilingual emcee since high school. And when I was a teacher, I had a huge student base, with some classes consisting of 500 students. That base could be similar to the one some individual publicists have today. But indeed, I was not doing any fashion-related media until 2012.

I think the biggest challenge was to transform my ability to talk and act in motion with still words and images – and at a high level of quality. I’m an active person. I’m not good at writing anecdotes. And actually, if you know me, I’m not good at creating buzz with words. When I started, I didn’t even retouch my photos or put on a filter. And then I figured out that almost everybody did.

What traits have helped you most in your career with fashion?

I have ADHD. I cannot stop. So I’m okay with the crazy Fashion Week schedules in London, Milan and Paris. Basically, I cover three to eight shows every day, which means going to so many different places, shooting loads of photos and posting tons of blog posts, all within a short time frame.

I have a high AQ [adversity quotient]. When I got started, many critics, especially those from traditional media, picked on us. I turned those negative comments into my desire to improve and work better.

You said you were motivated by a Buddhist leader on Weibo to make your voice heard many years ago. What about your ties with fashion? Who or what inspired you to launch a career as a fashion blogger?

I left my job at [private education provider] New Oriental with disappointment, and maybe anger, in 2011 or so. There, many famous teachers tried to build themselves as stars. I hated the fact that some were showing off how wealthy they were by the cars they drove and how fashionable
they were by the brands they wore, instead of putting their efforts into education. One guy, in particular, told his thousands of students that he wouldn’t show up in the classroom unless his outfit cost more than 10,000 RMB.

I was influential locally, but I couldn’t make my voice heard because I wasn’t famous enough by then. To me and my partner, brands had little to do with fashion; it’s the style and the intellectual power behind them.

We started running my social media account and working with many streetwear brands in the beginning, like Lee, Vans, Levi’s and Reebok. Then brands like Dior noticed my social influence and invited me to their events in Shanghai. A while after that, I happened to have a press trip to Bordeaux, which ended on the day of the Dior Homme show. So I made it to the show on a late train with two pieces of luggage and was almost refused entry. Thank god that I still made it! After that, the next season I took a picture with Karl Lagerfeld. The next season after that, I even interviewed him. And can you believe that I had actually dreamed about meeting Karl Lagerfeld and talking with him at the show, two years before I actually did it?

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Childhood photo of Peter

Childhood photo of Peter

Some fashion bloggers expand their career into other arenas after they get famous. Many of them build up their own brands or businesses. Do you think there’s a typical career path for fashion bloggers in china?

No. Many Chinese fashion bloggers started or ended up opening their Taobao stores. I don’t think it’s bad. It’s more focused on money-making than some of their foreign counterparts, but it could cause them to derail from fashion. The global career path for fashion bloggers is not typical. For example, FaceHunter Yvan Rodic is now running an agency for Snapchat and his advertising clients. Chiara [Ferragni] is pushing her shoe line. Bryanboy is still just showing off.

You’re not only a fashion blogger, but also a columnist, photographer, TV host and stylist. Are you working solo or do you have a team to help you handle all this work? 

My team consists of three full-time staff, and 10 to 15 contributors and part-timers.

What is fashion to you? How do you see fashion in China?

Fashion is commercial art to me – a way to express oneself through clothes and lifestyle. Fashion in China is still struggling, and often misinterpreted and associated with entertainment, vanity or pure luxury.

The first artistic runway shot Peter captured, in 2013 for Ji Cheng’s show in Shanghai

The first artistic runway shot Peter captured, in 2013 for Ji Cheng’s show in Shanghai

What’s the first fashion item you remember buying?

A Comme des Garçons shirt.

You are always active during Fashion Weeks in New York, Milan and Paris. How do you dress upwhen going to big events? Do you focus on your personal style or follow the trends?

Always keep your own style, and wear some statement pieces or “it” items. Don’t wear something you aren’t confident about, but don’t worry about something that makes you uncomfortable. Fashion can be uncomfortable from time to time. 

Who do you think are the most influential fashion figures in China?

Celebrities such as G-Dragon, CL, Fan Bingbing and Chris Lee. I know GD & CL are Korean, but they are very active and influential in China.

Do you read other fashion blogs? Where do you get all the big news in fashion?

Not that much. I’m tired of traditional fashion bloggers. I get news from WWDNowFashion and my friends in this industry.

Name one must-buy item in 2016.

An oversized bomber jacket.

Hanging out with his Soulway music crew

Hanging out with his Soulway music crew

You live in Shanghai, which is considered to be China’s fashion hub. Has the city of Shanghai nurtured your talents in fashion?

Not that much. Shanghai, to me, is more like a business hub to connect with brands. I travel around. In China, Chinese towns and scenery inspire me more. My runway photography skills are obtained in Paris at so many shows.

The fashion industry is extravagant and often full of pressure. How do you deal with it all?

Many people are unhappy. I’m okay because I have a high AQ, like I said before. And I really like pressure – the thrill of getting things done quickly with quality. I get my adrenaline rush from it. Pressure produces power; pressure produces diamonds.

Have you had difficult times when working with big brands?

In the beginning, I did have difficulties working with many brands at a time. Each brand has high standards and they all differ.

Peter with Karl Lagerfeld

Peter with Karl Lagerfeld

More and more Chinese fashion bloggers are being invited to international fashion weeks. Do Chinese fashion bloggers play a major role in the global scene?

I don’t think so. Many from China are invited, but they come once or twice and then stop going. And it’s not easy for us to come consistently, because very few can give up other projects and come over to do hard work. I don’t really see many bloggers who are widely acknowledged, either.

Perhaps there are some more Chinese-American or Chinese expats based in Milan or Paris coming. I see more celebrities, VIPs and socialites coming, though. The Chinese majority contribute more to the entertainment industry and the luxury industry than fashion. Very few go to shows to really talk about shows. Many just go for the name of the brand and take selfies with celebrities. That was what bloggers used to do in the beginning – but that’s not what they are supposed to do now. Readers are bored and tired of it. Look at Bryanboy. He’s losing followers by just being himself. The good ones, like Tommy Ton, Adam Katz Sinding and Chiara are either starting their online media platforms and win with content, or are pushing their own products and design.

One artwork Peter loves is this installation by Chemical X and Damien Hirst

One artwork Peter loves is this installation by Chemical X and Damien Hirst

How would you describe your personal style?

I like colourful statement pieces and accessories with matching colours.

Name three words that describe you.

Enthusiastic, passionate and talkative.

What is an average day in the life of Peter Xu?

There’s hardly an average day. Every day is different. I could be going to shows, events or parties. I could be editing my photos, styling and shooting for celebrities, or writing my blogs. I could be hiding away, travelling.

What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you?

I was a rapper – actually, I went on a national singing talent show and made it to the top-20 finals.

Do you prefer working at night or during the day? At home or in a coffee shop? What suits you best, in terms of finding inspiration?

I work day in and day out, but since most fashion shows are on the air at midnight in China, I work more at night. I work everywhere. Travelling and fashion shows suit me best in finding inspiration – and they complement each other.

What mantras do you follow?

Fashion advice from Vivienne Westwood, “Buy less, choose well and make it last.” Business advice from Donald Trump, “It’s nothing personal; it’s just business.”

Where do you see yourself in the next 10 years?

I will be a true fashion icon and doing my own shows in Paris or Milan. My antenna will reach music, entertainment and other publication fields besides fashion.

Anything else you want to share with our readers?

Please follow my Instagram (digitalpimpp) and my WeChat (peterxu86) – you will regret it if you don’t! [laughs]

One of the Peter’s most-loved spot at home

One of the Peter’s most-loved spot at home

中文版

徐峰立

徐峰立拥有很多身份。他是一位时尚博主、造型师、专栏作家和主持人。出身于江苏的他曾任职于欧莱雅集团,也在中国最大的英语培训机构新东方教过书,还参加过全国性的歌唱比赛。他的微博帐号“潮人徐峰立”,吸引了大量粉丝关注。目前,除了为Cosmopolitan、Madame Figaro等媒体撰稿,他还成立了自己的工作室,专注于时尚产业,更是中国时尚行业最受关注的“意见领袖”(Key Opinion Leader)之一。
微博粉丝数:233万

 

和其他的时尚博主不同,你之前不是在时尚或者媒体行业工作而是在市场和教育行业。

我其实也有媒体相关经验。我在电台做过DJ, 以前在学校里也做过双语主持。之后当老师要面对大量学生,有的班的学生数量可以达到500个。这个规模和一些宣传机构的规模差不多。不过,我确实没有做过任何与时尚媒体有关的工作。
 

你身上的哪些特质帮助你发展时尚事业?

我有多动症,停不下来。所以对于时装周的各种疯狂行程我都能应对。那段时间,我每天会报道3到8个秀,所以我会在很短的时间去不同的地方拍照、发文章。
 

你和时尚的缘分是怎么开始的?

大概在2011年,我辞去了在新东方英语培训机构当老师的工作。那个时候因为一些事情心里有些失望。之后受到启发开始做微博,希望和更多人分享我的想法。

对我还有我的合作者来说,品牌和时尚是没有关系的,重要的是它们背后的风格和精神力量。

我一开始做微博账号是和一些街头品牌合作,后来迪奥发现了我在社交媒体的影响力,邀请我参加他们在上海的活动。这之后我又参加了一个媒体团去法国波尔多。那个活动结束的当天正好是Dior Homme秀。所以我就去参加这个秀,还差点错过了火车。再之后,我和老佛爷Karl Lagerfeld一起拍了照片,还采访了他。此前我曾梦到过和他在秀场见面聊天,没想到能够美梦成真。

很多博主在成名后都开始积极拓展自己的职业空间,主持、拍广告甚至是拍电影。你觉得中国时尚博主的职业发展有没有特定的模式?

没有。我觉得很多中国时尚博主都是从淘宝开始做起,或者是最后都转向淘宝开店。我并不是说这不好,只是说这和国外的时尚博主不同,这种形式就是把重点放在金钱上,可能最后离时尚本身越来越远。全世界时尚博主的职业发展道路也不同。比如瑞士街拍摄像师Yvan Rodic,他现在就在帮“阅后即焚”照片分享应用snapchat和他的广告客户工作。还有意大利籍的时尚博主Chiara Ferragni推出了以自己名字为名的鞋履品牌。当然还有像Bryanboy这样的博主,依然在不断炫耀自己。
 

你是自己工作还是有团队帮助你?

我的团队有3个全职成员,还有10到15个帮手和兼职工作人员。
 

对你来说什么是时尚?如何看待中国的时尚?

时尚对来我说就是商业艺术,一种通过装扮和生活方式表达自我的途径。中国的时尚其实还在不断摸索,很多时候会被误解或者和娱乐圈、名利场以及单纯的奢侈品联系在一起。
 

你人生中第一件时尚单品是?

川保久玲的衬衫
 

你经常参加各种时装展,在参加这些活动时,你通常的打扮是自己的个人风格还是紧跟潮流?

我觉得一个人一定要保持自己的风格,然后穿戴一些潮品。不要穿那些让你看起来不自信的衣服,但是也不用太为穿起来不舒服的单品忧心。时尚有时候就是会让人不舒服。
 

你觉得对中国时尚行业最有影响力的人物是?

韩国歌手权志龙、李彩麟,还有中国的范冰冰和李宇春。我知道权志龙和李彩麟都是韩国人,但他们在中国很活跃,也很有影响力。
 

你会看其他人的博客吗?通常从哪些地方获得时尚资讯?

看得不多。我对传统的时尚博客已经没有太大兴趣。我通常是通过WWD (Women’s Wear Daily),NowFashion还有行业内的朋友获得资讯。
 

2016年一定要买的单品是什么?

宽松的飞行夹克。
 

你所居住的城市上海一直被认为是中国的时尚之都。你觉得这座城市对你的时尚才华和品味有影响吗?

并不是很多。上海对我来说更像是联系品牌的商业中心。我平时很喜欢旅行,其实中国很多小城镇和美景都对我有启发作用。而我的摄影技巧是在巴黎学到的。
 

时尚行业很光鲜但却是高压行业,你是如何应对这个行业的各种问题?

时尚圈很多人都不快乐。因为我抗压能力很强,所以感觉没问题。其实我很喜欢压力,它能刺激我高效地完成工作。我能从中得到很多快感。俗话说压力产生动力,压力造就钻石。
 

你和各大品牌合作有没有遇到不顺?

最开始的确有难度。毕竟每个品牌都有自己的要求,而且他们本身也各不相同。
 

越来越多的中国时尚博主出席国际时装周,这是否证明中国博主在世界时尚行业扮演了重要角色?

我不这么认为。的确有很多中国时尚博主被邀请,但他们去了一两次就不去了。对时尚博主来说每年都坚持去并不是一件容易的事。因为这意味着你要放下手头上正在进行的所有项目,到时装周去辛苦工作。我也没有看到很多受到广泛认可的博主。

可能更常去的是美籍华裔博主或者常年居住在意大利米兰和法国巴黎的中国博主。更多的是名人、VIP和社交名流。中国人更关心娱乐圈和奢侈品行业而不是时尚。很多人去时装周并不是讨论时尚,他们都是冲着品牌的名声还有和名人合影的机会。可能时尚博主最开始是这样,但现在不应该这样了。读者早就不买账了。
 

你的个人风格是?

我喜欢各种颜色的潮品,搭配相应色彩的装饰。
 

用三个词形容自己

热心,热情,健谈。
 

你每天的行程是?

没有固定的行程,每天都不一样。我可能是去看秀、参加活动或者聚会。可能是在整理图片,给名人做造型或者拍照或者写博客。我也可能正逃到远方旅行。
 

关于你的什么事情会让人大吃一惊?

其实我是个说唱歌手。我之前参加过一个全国性的歌唱比赛,还进了前二十名。
 

你在什么状态下最能找到灵感?

我每天都工作,但是因为很多时装秀在中国都是晚上直播,所以我晚上工作的机会更多。旅游和时装秀最能给我灵感。
 

你收到的最好的建议是什么?

时尚方面的是Vivienne Westwood 曾经说过的一句话:买少一点,选好一点,然后让它成为经典。 商业方面是来自Donald Trump:没有什么个人原因,生意就是生意。
 

未来10年的发展计划是什么?

我希望成为真正的时尚偶像,能在巴黎和米兰做自己的时装发布会。我的职业领域可以发展到音乐,娱乐圈以及时尚以外的出版。

还有其他想和读者分享的吗?

请关注我的Instagram(digitalpimpp)和微信公众号(peterxu86)。

 

Images: Peter Xu

head.jpg

Becky Li


A relative newcomer to the fashion community, Fujian Province-born Fang Yimin was initially a political reporter and then a film reporter at Nanfang Daily. In 2014, she launched her WeChat public account “Becky’s Fantasy”, focusing on clothing and personal style discovery. She considers herself part of the “we media” movement rather than a blogger. Her WeChat platform (inspired by the Hollywood film Confessions of a Shopaholic) was named The Most Influential WeChat Public Account in 2015 by Chinese media. Followers on WeChat: 800,000

Becky Li


A relative newcomer to the fashion community, Fujian Province-born Fang Yimin was initially a political reporter and then a film reporter at Nanfang Daily. In 2014, she launched her WeChat public account “Becky’s Fantasy”, focusing on clothing and personal style discovery. She considers herself part of the “we media” movement rather than a blogger. Her WeChat platform (inspired by the Hollywood film Confessions of a Shopaholic) was named The Most Influential WeChat Public Account in 2015 by Chinese media. Followers on WeChat: 800,000

Street shot of Becky Li

Street shot of Becky Li

Becky Li

April 29, 2016 / interview by Yi-jie

Many people say you are a fashion blogger, but others think you are more like the “we media”. Which one do you think is more suited to your style?

I worked for media before starting the WeChat account, doing an editorial-related job. My previous job was quite similar to what I’m doing on WeChat now – producing content. So I consider myself “we media”.

You started your WeChat account in 2014. When you noticed your account attracting such huge public attention, did you adjust your content or strategy?

I’m still trying to figure it out. I talked to other account owners and they all said they had plans for their account. I don’t.

You tell people what fashion products they should buy?

Yes, that’s right, introducing fashion items so they can purchase them.

I also love buying things. At first, I just shared the things I liked or that I bought. That’s why all the things I write about have something to do with myself.

It’s your personal interest, but very practical for many Chinese girls.

Yes, that’s right. But as I gain more and more readers, they always comment about what they want to see, too. For example, they always ask how to dress themselves if they have big boobs. If they keep asking about it, then I interview girls around me with big boobs. Or “How should fat women best style themselves?” I don’t have these problems, so I try to figure them out through interviews or research.

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Becky and her aunt sit in a park in Guangdong in the 1980s

Becky and her aunt sit in a park in Guangdong in the 1980s

How do you manage your time? What’s your daily schedule and your production process?

I work the whole day. I don’t know how to describe it. I usually get up at 9 in the morning, because I have three forums for readers, so I look at the forums first.

Do you interact with them?

Yes, I do, every day. But sometimes I just try to find out what they are talking about. Then I read the statistics of my latest post and, of course, the readers’ comments and reactions. It takes me about an hour. Then I eat breakfast and source photos. I started doing WeChat until 10pm. 

After that, what do you do?

I start to choose comments and reply to readers’ messages. That takes me a couple of hours. When I reply to their comments at midnight, readers are surprised. They say, “Oh my god, why aren’t you asleep?”

You had a full-time job before; how did you manage to do all of that?

I didn’t post every day when I had a full-time job. I posted two to three times a week. But I don’t think the article quality was as good as it now. Maybe because I’m now a full-time blogger, I have higher standards for myself. I put more strength and effort into it. Maybe readers can’t tell, but I know I have to.

Becky at her first major fashion event

Becky at her first major fashion event

Your photos seem to be everywhere now. Have you considered becoming a fashion icon or someone in the public eye?

No, I have never considered it. It seems like a lack of ambition, but it’s true. I think I’m very lucky to be working in this new-media time. Media notice me because I’m one of the “we media”, so there are many reports about me. I’m not saying I don’t want to be exposed to the public. But I don’t intend to make myself as an icon or celebrity.

Have there been any harsh comments?

There have been claims of plagiarism. But the way people write and the points will be different. If account A is doing a topic about coats just as I do, but I post the article after account A, some will accuse me of plagiarising account A. I don’t care about it because there’s no such thing.

If there are any serious comments or suggestions from my readers, though, I remember that. A girl once said to me, “You are a journalist and you should be serious about typing.” I said, “I know and I checked a couple of times, but I still made mistakes.” She said it’s not a good excuse. If you can find it one time, you check three times – even 30 times. I think she’s right.

You were a film journalist before and now part of the “we media” for a fashion account. What’s been the biggest challenge for you in this career?

Physical strength; I feel so tired. 

Where did you get all the tips for dressing yourself and your sense of aesthetics?

[laughs] I think my narcissism and pursuit of being beautiful was inherited from my mother.

Besides your mother, did you have any fashion icons when you were young?

Kate Moss. Coco Chanel also influenced me a lot. She once said that clothes should make you feel comfortable and confident. She didn’t like anything making her feel uncomfortable. I agree with her. When I dress myself now, no matter how beautiful the clothes are, if it makes me feel
uncomfortable, I won’t put it on.

Becky celebrates with friends

Becky celebrates with friends

Tell us about your personal style.

I dress in a normal style. I can’t remember when, but once I went out for dinner with my friends. They said, “Why hasn’t a fashion blogger put on new clothes? And you are wearing such thick socks! You should show your legs as a fashion blogger!” [laughs] They always make jokes about me. 

Do you have a go-to item in your wardrobe?

Yes, I wrote about it in an article – it’s a white shirt. Always. If I have no idea what to wear, I will definitely put on a white shirt; it matches with anything from a dress to trousers. It works in all situations. 

You have some promotional articles introducing products from different brands. Have you ever encountered any tough cases where you didn’t know how to work them into the article?

It happens all the time. Sometimes you think it’s okay, but for the brands, they don’t think so. For example, I cooperated with a car brand – I’d better not mention its name. The brand always disagrees with how I introduce them on my account. But they couldn’t point out exactly where the problem is, so we’ve discussed it for a long time.

So there is a brainstorming session for you and brands?

Yes. First, I provide the outline or idea, and then we discuss.

Becky's favourite spot at home

Becky's favourite spot at home

If there are any disagreements, do you keep your original ideas or do you compromise?

I think both. Yes, I prefer keeping my own ideas, but if there are some principles the brands insist on, I’ll respect them. Because they have their own needs. Most of the brands are easy to work with. They come to me because they know my style. For other accounts, brands usually give press releases to bloggers. But I’d rather write it myself; that’s my style. They also respect me for that and give me more flexibility to create. I can’t keep saying the name of the brand throughout the whole article. It’s not me.

When brands approach you, do you have any criteria for potential partners?

Yes, I usually choose the ones I have used or that I like. Even now, this criteria still works for me. For example, for skincare products, I only promote those I have used. If I haven’t used it, I’ll ask the brand to send me a sample or I will buy it myself. There were some brands trying to get me to promote products that I haven’t used before; in the end, we didn’t cooperate. 

Have you ever found your articles interesting but they fell flat?

Yes, even recently. I wrote one titled “Successful People Have Only One Set of Clothes”. I found it quite interesting, but the page views were very low. I don’t know why.

A peek inside Becky's bag

A peek inside Becky's bag

Will you try to avoid topics like this in future?

No, I think I’ll try again. Maybe it’s because readers think, “If I only have one set of clothes, why should I read your account?” I think I chose it because I found it interesting. But for them, I think they prefer something more instructive and practical.

What kind of topic is most popular among readers?

If my article introduces something readers can buy, it will be very popular. If it has nothing to do with buying, it’s dangerous for us. [laughs]

How about fashion bloggers’ influence on the development of China’s fashion industry?

Well, I don’t know about others, but for me, I think WeChat keeps me closer to normal people – so I know the requirements of ordinary people better and make some suggestions. For the whole industry, I think it depends on the bloggers themselves. Take myself as an example. If I only write on my WeChat account, like now, and post some promotional articles, of course the influence on the whole industry will be very limited.

With such good opportunities now, it’s all based on what fashion bloggers are thinking about, what they can do. Then they will know what a big influence they can have.

For those who want to start a fashion-focused account on WeChat, what’s the biggest tip you have for them?

Do it. Of course, you may not do it very successfully or make a lot of money, but in the process of doing it, you can discover many possibilities within yourself. If you want to do it, just do it. Maybe you’ll find you aren’t suitable for it or you don’t like it – you can give up, but you have to try first.

中文版

黎贝卡

从时政记者到电影记者,再到微信公众号运营者,通过和读者分享购物、穿着打扮经验,“黎贝卡”已经成为各大品牌争先合作的对象。她的微信公众帐号“黎贝卡的异想世界”(改名于好莱坞电影《购物狂的异想世界》)被评为“2015年中国最有影响力微信公众号”。
微信粉丝数:80万

 

有人说你是时尚博主,也有人说你是自媒体人,你觉得哪个身份更适合你?

在做微信公众号之前我在媒体工作,也是做采编这个方向。我觉得我现在做的工作和以前很像,都是生产内容。所以我觉得自媒体人的身份更适合我。


你从2014年开始做微信公众帐号。当发现你的帐号获得了广泛关注时,有没有调整过帐号的内容和运营策略?

我知道其他号的运营者都是提前有一些计划,但是我没有。其实我一直都在摸索。


你的帐号最开始是介绍时尚消费类产品?

对,做时尚消费类的。因为我自己很爱买,所以一开始我只是单纯地分享我喜欢和我买的东西。这些内容都是和我自己相关的。


这是你自己的爱好,但是对中国女孩却很实用。

对。但是随着读者越来越多,他们也会经常在后台跟我说他们想看什么内容。比如他们会说让我写“大胸妹”怎么穿。如果他们一直问,我就会去采访我身边的一些“大胸妹”。又或者像“体型胖的人该怎么穿”这类问题。我会通过采访或者研究来做这个话题。


你怎么安排每天的时间?

我感觉自己一整天都在做微信。我不知道该怎么描述。我基本上每天9点起床,因为我有三个读者群,所以我会先去看一下那些群。


你会和他们互动吗?

会,每天都会。有时候我只是看一下他们在说什么,但自己不说话。我有时候也会看前一天推送的数据以及读者的留言。大概会花一个小时,然后吃早饭。然后就开始准备当天的推送。


然后呢?

我差不多10点钟写完推送,之后我会开始挑一些评论然后回复读者留言。这大概要花几个小时。我有时候凌晨回复读者评论时,他们看到都会很惊讶:“天哪,你怎么还不睡啊?”


你之前有全职的工作,同时还要做微信公众号,怎么平衡时间?

全职工作时我没有每天发微信。一周可能发2-3次。当然那个时候的文章质量也没有现在好。也有可能是因为我现在是全职做微信, 所以对自己的要求也不一样。我自己觉得必须要花更多的时间和精力做这件事。读者未必能感受到,但我自己会这样要求自己。


现在很多地方都能看到你的照片。你是否有考虑转型成为时尚达人或者从幕后转战台前?

没有。我觉得我很幸运,因为现在自媒体很火,大家对自媒体有兴趣,所以媒体才会关注我,从而会有这些曝光的机会。并不是说我不希望被曝光,但我没有刻意把自己经营成一个名人或者偶像。


在你运营公众帐号过程中受到的最严苛的评价是什么?

说我抄袭。因为时尚号的内容比较容易重合,但是只要认真看就会发现写的方式和观点都会不同。比如有的号做大衣的专题而我也正好在做。我是在它之后发布,有的读者就会说我抄袭。我没有把它当回事,因为这是无中生有。

如果说真正有建设性比较严苛的评价,我记得一次一个女孩跟我说,作为一个记者,你应该严谨,不应该老写错别字。我告诉她这是个死角,我校对了好几遍还是看不到。她说,这不是借口,你应该反复校对。我觉得她说的很对。


从电影记者转型到时尚自媒体人,这个过程中最大的挑战是什么?

体力。我觉得很累。


你的审美和穿衣技巧是从哪里得到的启发?

比较臭美和爱买大概是受妈妈的影响。


你的时尚偶像是谁?

凯特·莫斯。可可·香奈儿对我的影响也很大。她曾经说过衣服应该让你穿起来舒服和自信。她不喜欢让人穿起来不舒服的衣服。我很认同她的观点。我在自己穿衣服时,无论这个衣服多漂亮,如果她让我觉得不舒服,我就不会穿。


你的穿衣风格是什么?

很普通的风格。记得有一次和朋友出去吃饭,他们就跟我开玩笑说,:“时尚博主怎么没有穿新衣服?穿这么厚的袜子?你应该像时尚博主一样露出大长腿!”我的朋友经常和我开玩笑。


你衣柜里的必备 单品是什么?

白色衬衫。我在文章里有写过。很多时候如果我不知道穿什么,用一件白衬衣就可以解决。它可以搭配一条好看的裙子或者裤子,什么场合都适用。


你的微信公众平台每天会有一到两篇推广。在写文案的过程中有没有遇到特别难办的案例?

经常会有,每天都会想很久。有时候自己觉得ok,可能品牌会有意见。例如之前和某个汽车品牌合作,他们一直觉得文章过度不自然,但又说不出哪里不自然,所以讨论了很久。


这期间会有头脑风暴吗?

会有。我会先提供思路,之后我们会讨论。


如果和品牌在文案方面有不同意见,你会坚持自己的想法还是会和品牌协调?

都会有。我比较倾向坚持自己的,但如果品牌有一些原则性的问题我也会让步。大多数品牌都很容易沟通。他们找到我因为他们知道我的风格。其他的帐号可能直接使用品牌提供的文案,但我会要求自己写。他们当然也会给我比较大的空间。


在选择合作品牌时,自己有没有标准?

有。我基本上会选择自己用过或喜欢的品牌。直到现在这个原则都贯彻得比较好。比如护肤品,如果我没用过我是不会推的。我会要求品牌寄来给我试用或自己买来用。有的品牌来找我,因为我没用过他们的产品,所以最后没能合作。


有没有遇到过自己写的推送文章预期和最后反响相差较远的情况?

有。我写过一篇《成功人士都有他们的一套》,我觉得那篇很有意思,但阅读量很低。我会再尝试。那篇文章大概是因为读者想“如果我只穿一套衣服为什么还关注你”。我只是觉得这个话题有趣,但读者可能更希望我的帐号给出有参考性和指导性的文章。


什么话题最受读者欢迎?

如果我的文章是介绍读者可以买的东西,会非常受欢迎。如果和“买东西”没有关系,那阅读量就很低。


作为当红“时尚自媒体人”,你觉得你们对于中国时尚行业的发展有什么影响?

微信平台离普通人比较近,它会更知道普通人的需求,可以有很多实用的建议。对于整个时尚行业,关键看时尚博主能做到什么状态。以我自己为例,如果我一直做这个帐号,写一些推广和软文,对整个行业的影响会很有限。

在当下这么好的时机,如果时尚博主、自媒体人能够多考虑自己能做什么,大概才有可能思考对整个行业的影响。

对希望在微信平台做时尚公众号的读者,你最想给出的建议是?

放手去做。可能你做公众号不会一开始就很成功或者赚很多钱。但在做的过程中你可以发现很多可能性。如果想做公众号,就去试。你可能后来会发现你并不适合或者不喜欢,但是你至少尝试过。

Images: You Zi (Becky in one-piece); Zhong Ruijun (first fashion event); Cui Sitan (street-style shot); Becky Li (all others)

head.jpg

Chrison


Based in Shanghai, Wang Yuan aka Chrison used to work as an editor of Tennis Master. His first taste of fashion journalism was contributing to the lifestyle section of China’s Weekend Weekly. After launching his Weibo account in 2010, a mix of traditional fashion reviews and images, he switched to celebrity style and quickly gained a huge following. He writes columns for a variety of Chinese fashion publications, including Elle and Cosmopolitan. Chrison has developed long-term collaborations with some of the biggest fashion brands, including Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, Dior and Valentino. Followers on Weibo: 2.23 million

Chrison


Based in Shanghai, Wang Yuan aka Chrison used to work as an editor of Tennis Master. His first taste of fashion journalism was contributing to the lifestyle section of China’s Weekend Weekly. After launching his Weibo account in 2010, a mix of traditional fashion reviews and images, he switched to celebrity style and quickly gained a huge following. He writes columns for a variety of Chinese fashion publications, including Elle and Cosmopolitan. Chrison has developed long-term collaborations with some of the biggest fashion brands, including Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, Dior and Valentino. Followers on Weibo: 2.23 million

 

Chrison

April 29, 2016 / interview by Selena Li

The runway show that most impressed him was Valentino’s haute couture show at the Whitney Museum in New York

The runway show that most impressed him was Valentino’s haute couture show at the Whitney Museum in New York

Tell us about your previous full-time job. What kind of media you were working for?

People who followed me since early on would know I used to work for a sports media company. In fact, I still contribute to sports media now. There are similarities and differences with sports and fashion, but they both interest me. So I’ve followed them closely on both fronts. The good thing is that I won’t get bored doing one thing for too long.

What do you think about the trend for traditional media practitioners to transform into fashion bloggers?

I think there are advantages for media practitioners to be fashion bloggers, because we know how media operates and we write well – we know what our readers are interested in. We are more attuned to the news and we can apply what we learn from the media on our own platform.

You never post your own photos and no one knows your real identity. Why? Have you ever imagined being
a glamorous celebrity?

It’s purely a personal choice – nothing special. First of all, I’m not good-looking enough for girls to go crazy for me, so I choose not to show myself online – I can identify with others when I see regular people showing off their selfies. Second, I can enjoy the freedom without being recognised when I go out to play ball and go shopping. I don’t need to worry about people judging my outfits, saying, “How can he, the fashion blogger, dress like that?!” 

Of course, when attending fashion events, friends in the circle all know me – and that’s enough. I position myself as a writer, not someone in the spotlight. It’s important to have a clear position, to know what I want and what I’m good at. So if my work can speak for me, it would be my greatest honour. Becoming a social star was never my goal. I don’t post photos and I rarely take selfies. Other than long-term clients, I seldom attend events. I won’t go to any of the new store openings, which are boring. PRs used to ask why, but after some time they learned it’s my habit and they don’t push it.

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One of the most interesting events he attended was a Chanel bowling event

One of the most interesting events he attended was a Chanel bowling event

What are your hobbies?

I got fascinated by the apps Zhihu and Guokr. I can learn a lot of new stuff. I need to stay smart, not just be good-looking. I also like playing tennis. I don’t go to the gym regularly, so playing tennis is my way to keep fit.

Did you start your Weibo blogging intentionally?

I started posting things on Weibo because I had plenty of free time – I worked for a monthly, so I only got really busy one week a month. I shared photos I liked, and my own insights on fashion and clothes. In the beginning, I didn’t take the posts seriously and not many people were paying attention. Then, I decided to make it regular – and later on some people discovered my account and reposted it. That’s how I gained popularity. 

When did you first notice that you were tagged with the “fashion blogger” label? 

I resisted the label of “fashion blogger” at first, because I didn’t think writing on Weibo was the same as blogging. After all, you can only write 140 words in a Weibo post, but you can write however long you want on your blog. Then, around the end of 2010, I got invited to Fashion Week in New York by Michael Kors – and the note that followed my name was “fashion blogger”. I realised that it wasn’t bad to attend fashion shows for free with this identity. Those brands were probably confused at that time about how to define people like me – people who posted opinions about fashion in Weibo. So they decided to call us “fashion bloggers”. I don’t think the identity is accurate. 

A selection of meaningful things, including his tennis gear, scrapbook and figurines

A selection of meaningful things, including his tennis gear, scrapbook and figurines

All the things you wrote four or five years ago – where are they now?

I didn’t have many followers before, so I could write something according to my mood and summarise some experiences. As more people started to see my posts, I became a little shy to share my personal things. I had a secret account before, but I forgot the password, so I don’t use it.

You said that you think this year’s Victoria’s Secret collection is “the ugliest in 20 years”. Being famous for your sarcasm, have you ever been bothered by PR people from the brands?

I’ve been far away from the title du she [a harsh critic] for so long. But don’t you think it is the ugliest? I just say what everybody else is thinking. As for PR people, they never give you a hard time face to face. The only thing they can do is swear behind your back – “So-and-so is a real bitch!”

His fully-stocked refrigerator

His fully-stocked refrigerator

Do you feel constrained creating content when you have to consider the hits or page views of a post? Which is more important for you, the desire to say what you want to say, or to satisfy your fans and followers?

Actually, I enjoyed the early years because I could share what I wanted to share. Now, to be honest, it’s not the case. I have to take into consideration how many people would like it, how many would agree and how many would repost it. I sometimes make adjustments to the original post or the way I express an opinion. I play tricks so that people won’t detect my real intentions. Sometimes I see people comment on what I said and they have clearly misread it – it’s a guilty pleasure.

How long does it take you to create a Weibo post?

It depends on the content. Some take hours because you have to find the images, put them together, do some retouching. Some take less than five minutes – two subway stops. That happens most often when I am travelling. I love travelling and when I don’t have too much time to contemplate a post, I can write something “safe” – which means it won’t be bad. As I’ve been blogging for years, I know the patterns.

Under what conditions do you get the most inspiration?

I think participating in a fashion event brings you the most inspiration. For example, when you go to a fashion show, you can get a close look at the fabric, tailoring and techniques – the direct contact with them will give you the inspiration. It’s different from seeing photos of celebrities wearing the clothes. The texture cannot be conveyed in the images. 

Is it hard to manage a new platform, like when you started writing on your public WeChat account? 

In fact, WeChat is a more suitable platform for me, as I like writing long pieces. There is a lot of limitation with 140 words. You can’t express an idea clearly with the word count. The very first time I got in the industry was at my university. Weekend Weekly wanted me to write a 4,000-word long-form piece. It gave me a pleasure and a sense of fulfilment that 140 words could never give.

Chrison’s toilet gets the luxury treatment

Chrison’s toilet gets the luxury treatment

In November, you began hunting for assistant editors.

Actually, there is a full-time partner who works with me on the WeChat posts. There are also several part-time assistants. But we have been quite busy recently, because we have to post things at least once every two days, or even once a day. I want to be more focused on writing and creating posts, so I would like some help in source-gathering and layout design. I haven’t decided yet. There are so many applications and I haven’t finished reading through it all. 

How many magazines do you read to make sure you keep up on the big news in the industry?

Zero, unless there are features I like very much or amazing fashion shoots. Otherwise, I won’t pay a cent for a fashion magazine – because in the internet era, everything is available online. For example, WWD [Women’s Wear Daily], BoF [Business of Fashion] and Style.com are very good sources of information.

What is the breakdown of the soft content that advertises and the hard-core fashion reviews among your all posts? Do you consciously set a proportion for these different types of content? Are you worried fans won’t follow you if there is too much advertising?

It’s roughly three to one. But sometimes my long-term clients come to me at the same time, so I can only say yes to all of them. I did some rethinking, though and I think maybe I need to reduce the soft content. I aim to write sincere soft content that’s not a press release, so that clients and my readers can both be happy.

The self-introduction on Weibo says you are a fashionista. But when we look at what you do, it goes beyond fashion into the whole lifestyle space. Do you think fashion blogger is too narrow a definition?

The introduction was written by Sina Weibo and I can’t change it. It’s okay to call me a fashion blogger, but I see myself more as a member of “we media”. No matter if it’s in fashion or other fields, there are so many of us. We build our own platform to have our voice out there and attract a group of followers who share same values as us. They’re not necessarily following me as Chrison, but just identify with my opinions.

Chrison’s favourite spot at home – packed and ready to go

Chrison’s favourite spot at home – packed and ready to go

What are the standards you look at when selecting a brand to work with?

Good reputation, great texture and not stingy on budget. There are some tough brands that I won’t consider a second time after one collaboration – because they think they’re gods who can have complex and repetitive requirements. I’ve seen that enough when I worked for traditional media and I had to bear with them. One good thing with operating your own media is that it’s not imperative to serve them.

Name one “key opinion leader” campaign that left a deep impression on you.

The most successful examples are all carried out by foreign fashion bloggers. The campaigns by Chinese bloggers are all experimental and small-scale.

Which foreign fashion bloggers do you admire the most? 

I have more respect for some established fashion reporters – for example, Tim Blanks and Suzy Menkes. They make their points clearly and concisely. And I also have great respect for some Instagram fashion bloggers – some I met at events – who are so skilful to have their own photos look nothing like themselves in real life. 

What’s the difference between fashion bloggers in China and overseas?

Foreign fashion bloggers usually post about their own dressing and photography. As for Chinese bloggers, they always share images. The main reason is that those who know how to dress themselves in China will start a business on Taobao, where it’s much easier to make money. 

As a frequent visitor to New York, Paris and Milan, how do you compare Shanghai in terms of its advantages and disadvantages as an emerging fashion hub? 

One of the advantages is the market. We have so many fashion consumers. When people start to pursue fashion, stores will expand and media will follow the industry. As for disadvantages, of course there’s not enough heritage and cultivation. It’s hard to figure whether people are blindly following trends or they just want to show off their wealth. Can we still doubt that one day when the trends blow over, the market will die? Recently, a famous brand closed several retail stores in China; it’s just one example of the phenomenon.

Do you have a personal relationship with other bloggers or just discuss with them in terms of business? Is this circle exclusive?

We do know each other personally. We talk about some issues in the industry, such as which new collections look good, which event was screwed, which new issue of a magazine is well-written, which celebrity dressed terribly. We discuss serious topics as well as gossip. We’re all like a group of friends, but we don’t meet up frequently. Most times we gather after events. We still live in different circles. 

What are the income levels of the fashion bloggers who earn the most in the industry? Would people in traditional media be envious?

I don’t know the numbers for sure. As far as I know, I’m not in that group. I wouldn’t say they’d be envious; I would say that they would long for the opportunity to build their own platforms. After all, traditional media practitioners are a very small part of the industry, and they cannot be in real control and are weak in expressing their own opinions. They have to listen to their bosses and advertisers.

Other than admiring the income of the fashion bloggers, it’s more about the freedom that they’re yearning for. Once you come out and build your own business, of course you’ll enjoy a lot more freedom in expressing your own opinions, covering the stories and creating the content that you like, and even in making an offer. But don’t forget – it comes with risks. So don’t overdo it.

中文版

Chrison克里森

Chrison本名王远,是原体育杂志《网球大师》的编辑。在为《周末画报》生活版撰稿期间开始接触时装媒体。2010年开始使用新浪微博,初期以分享各种时装图文为主。之后转向时尚点评,也因此获得大量粉丝关注。在经营自己的时尚帐号同时,Chrison也为ELLE,ELLEMEN,COSMO,红秀,男人装,新视线等刊物撰写时装评论。他与LV,GUCCI,CHANEL,Dior,Valentino等品牌保持长期合作关系。
微博粉丝数:221万

 

能介绍一下你之前的工作吗? 

最早关注我的一批人应该都知道,我以前是做体育媒体的,现在仍然在帮体育媒体写稿。体育和时尚类文章有不同的地方,也有彼此互通的地方,但都属于我的兴趣范畴,所以我会不断地关注这两方面的动态。这样交叉工作还有一点好处,就是不会总是重复做同一个领域的东西,产生职业倦怠感。
 

怎么看媒体从业者近水楼台先得月,转行做了时尚博主?

媒体从业者转行做时尚博主,我认为是一个优势。因为我们更了解媒体的运作经营,可能文笔也会更好,并且更了解读者感兴趣的内容,对新闻更有敏锐度。可以把这些在媒体中学到的东西,运用到自己的平台当中。
 

你从不发布自己的照片,没有人知道你的真实身份。为什么?有没有想过在生活里成为名人其实也是件挺风光的事?

这个纯粹是属于个人选择,没什么特别原因。第一,我不属于那种好看到大家会流口水的类型,所以还是不要把照片放上网。第二,我可以在生活里随心所欲地吃饭,打球逛街。我不用担心被人认出来说:“诶!那不是那个谁谁吗?怎么穿得那么随便就出来了?”

当然在业内活动时,一些行业内朋友都见过我,知道我是谁,我觉得保持在这个度就够了。因为我觉得给自己的定位,还是一个写字的人,而不是露脸的人。这个自身定位很重要,明白自己要做什么,擅长做什么。所以我觉得,只要我的作品说话,那我就算风光了。

成为社交名人,从来不是我追求的目标。
 

闲时最大的爱好是? 

最近迷上知乎和果壳app,感觉能够了解到很多其它领域有趣的事情,不断吸纳新东西,才不至于外表时髦,脑子过时。还有打网球,这是长期的爱好。因为我不专门去健身房健身,所以打球也算我维持健康的方法了。


有意为之还是无心插柳?

当时自己开了微博,感觉日常工作太闲(因为我在月刊工作,每个月大概只有一周特别忙),所以想分享一些喜欢的图片和对时装的见解。刚开始没什么人看,自己也没在意。只是保持频率更新下去。觉得有意思的人开始转发分享,之后粉丝慢慢累积上来。


什么时候开始意识到自己身上被贴了 “fashion blogger” 的标签?

最开始挺抗拒这个说法的,因为我不觉得微博等同于Blog。毕竟一个是140字的平台,一个是长文章的载体。2010年底,Michael Kors邀请我去纽约时装周,在我的名字后面备注的身份是fashion blogger,我突然觉得能用这个身份去免费看看秀,也挺不错。大概当时的品牌也不知道怎么定义像我这样在微博上专门发时装评论的人,所以就暂且叫“fashion blogger”,其实挺不准确的。
 

四五年前常写的那些人生箴言,现在都转移到小号上去了吗? 

之前关注的人少,所以会依心情写一些小东西,总结一些生活里的境遇和(自以为)的道理。现在关注的人多了,反而不太好意思分享,总觉得这种东西还是偏私人。小号,我一开始真的有,但后来把密码忘了,就没用了。

 

你把最近一次维密秀称为二十年最丑的一届,毒舌惯了,真的没有公关来找你?

我已经远离“毒舌”这两个字很久了。但这一届维密你觉得不是最丑的吗?我只是把大家想说的话说出来了而已。至于品牌公关,这群人在面子上永远都不会跟你过不去的,这是他们的工作要求之一。
 

发布内容的随心所欲程度会不会随着对点击/分享量的追求而逐步递减?哪一个更重要,自己写得开心,还是粉丝看得爽快?

其实刚开微博的那一年半到两年中,是发得最开心的时候,因为都是自己想分享的东西。现在,说实话,不全是。我会考虑发布的内容会不会有人转,或者会不会有人赞同。所以会适当调整内容,或者阐述的方法。有时候,会打一些太极,让人看不出我说的是好还是坏。这时候,看到某些评论被我带歪,心里还蛮暗爽的。

 

一条微博,从构思到发布,最长的时间花费是?

视乎内容而定,长的要几个小时,因为要找图,拼图,甚至是P图。短的时候,我可以在坐一站地铁的时间里发出来,大概五分钟以内。基本上这种情况在我旅游的时候最多,因为我很爱旅游,没空发的时候,就会见缝插针找一些“保险”的内容发。我指的保险就是,发出来效果肯定不会差的。因为已经做了好多年,所以对这种套路已经很熟练了。
 

在什么情况下获得的灵感最多?

我觉得还是当你亲身参与到一个时尚事件中的时候灵感最丰富。例如现场看秀,然后去看这些衣服的面料、剪裁和工艺,这些最直观的东西能带来最多的灵感;例如你去亲眼看到明星们的穿着,然后再做评价,因为一套衣服图片呈现出的质感,和现场有时还是有差距。
 

转战微信平台的时候会不会刚开始觉得难以驾驭?

其实微信是更适合我的平台,因为我本来就是比较喜欢写长文章。短的140字表达不清楚观点就结束了。我最早跟时装评论搭上边,就是大学时期《周末画报》找我约稿,一写就是4000字左右,那种东西顺下来感觉很爽,是140字的微博带不来的成就感。
 

去年你开始寻找编辑助理,你如何安排团队工作?

其实我的微信团队本来就有一名全职的合伙人,还有兼职的帮手,但大家最近都有点精力不足。因为目前几乎是需要至少两天一推的频率,甚至一天一推。我想把精力更多投入写作本身,所以想再找一个助理来帮忙找一下资料,完成一下排版工作。不会很复杂,但需要足够的审美能力,不然肯定会被我辞退的。但我还没选好,一下子有好多人发来应征信,我现在还没看完。
 

订阅了多少本时尚杂志才能确保不错过今天的重磅新闻?

零本。除非有我喜欢的专题,很惊艳的大片,不然我现在几乎不买时尚杂志。因为在网络时代,一切信息都可以通过网络渠道获取。比如WWD (Women’s Wear Daily),BOF (Business of Fashion),以前的style.com,这些都是很好的资讯获取来源。
 

软性的内容和纯粹的时装评论分别占几成?有没有给自己设置一个比例,会不会担心软文太多会流失粉丝?

我设定的比例大概是3:1,但有时候因为很多品牌都是长期合作的,所以他们在同一时间来找,我也只有答应。当然我最近有反思这个问题,广告需要适当控制,而且我是希望把软文写得发自内心,不要像通稿,这样客户才开心,同时读者也买单。
 

微博上关于你的介绍是时尚达人,但是参考你发布的内容,已经远远超出时尚产业。你会觉得时尚博主的这个定义太窄吗?你的工作的本质是什么?

其实微博的介绍是新浪帮我弄的,还不能改……我觉得时尚博主这个名字其实还行,但自媒体人更贴切。因为无论是在时尚领域还是其它领域,这样的自媒体不在少数,但他们可能未必是Blogger。我们就是搭建起自己发声的平台,集聚的是赞同我们观点的一群关注者,他们未必是关注我Chrison这个人,但关注的是我的观点。
 

筛选合作的品牌,最主要的参考标准是什么?

声誉好,有质感,同时不吝啬预算 。有的难搞的品牌,我在合作一次之后,也不会考虑继续,因为他们会觉得自己是上帝,要求多又反复。这种客户我在传统媒体任职时,已经见过很多,但为了饭碗必须忍,但现在自媒体的好处就是,我没必要伺候。
 

不可否认现在生活方式产业包括时尚品牌都很注重和行业的意见领袖合作。近一两年来你印象最深刻的的成功例子有哪些? 

最成功的例子我觉得都在国外,现在有很多时尚大牌都找来博主来拍摄广告大片,甚至是进行设计合作。国内的合作还是在小打小闹,毕竟大家更买明星的单。
 

欣赏的国外同行有谁?

其实我更欣赏一些老牌的时装记者,例如Tim Blanks, 前几年的Suzy Menkes,他们表述观点清晰明了,针针见血。国外的一些Instagram博主……其实我也很佩服,因为在活动上碰到过,她们能把照片拍得跟自己完全不一样。
 

评价一下国内博主和国外博主的区别?

国外主要还是以亲身穿着搭配加摄影为主,国内主要以文字图片分享为主。主要是因为国内要是可以穿着搭配的,都去争着开淘宝店了,来钱更快。
 

常去纽约巴黎米兰的你,怎么看上海作为中国的时尚之都的后发优势/先天不足? 

优势当然就是如今时尚服饰买的人多,近几年不缺市场。大家都开始追求时尚,有市场当然就有不断扩张的店铺,甚至是蜂拥而上的媒体。至于不足,就是本身积淀不够,大多数人是为了跟风而买?还是为了炫富而买?那是不是这一阵风过去了,市场就跟着过去了?最近某品牌在中国关了几家店,相信就是这种跟风现象的结果。
 

与博主圈里的其他人是私交为主,还是业务沟通更多?这个圈子很排外吗?

都是私交为主,当然也会聊一些业内话题,谁家新一季美啊,谁家活动又办砸了啊,哪本刊比较好看啊,哪个明星又穿丑了啊,有业内正经话题,也有八卦。总之就是像朋友一样吧。但大家见面并不是很频繁,通常是活动之后聚在一起。还是各自有自己的生活圈。

圈内挣的最多的博主,年收入大约在什么级别?媒体的同行会不会觉得眼红都想出来单干?

具体数字这个我还真的不清楚,因为我肯定不是最多的。我觉得不能说他们是眼红,那些同行是看到了搭建自己平台的机会。毕竟在媒体里你只是小小的一环,你的观点表达和主控性都很弱的,要听领导/金主的指示。

与其说他们羡慕的是收入,倒不如说是羡慕这种自由度。你出来自己做了,当然各种空间就大了,包括观点、主题、创作内容,甚至是价码。但不要忘了,同时伴随着的还有风险。所以要量力而为。

 

Images: Chrison