Languedoc Rising

October 24, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

The French region of Languedoc has been a victim of its own success since early times. The area was cultivated with vineyards by the early Greeks in the fifth century. Languedoc had belonged to France since the 13th century and Roussillon was acquired from Spain in the 1650s; the two regions were joined in the 1980s. 

Spanning the Mediterranean coastline from the French border with Spain to the region of Provence, the area has around 700,000 acres of wines and is the biggest wine-producing region in the world, responsible for more than one-third of France’s total. It was estimated that by 1980, Languedoc was producing ten per cent of the entire planet’s wine output. 

But where Bordeaux and Burgundy reign in France, Languedoc has been overshadowed by their influence – one that both regions have been happy to reinforce. However, that’s now changing, largely due a group of dynamic contemporary winemakers, and the supreme exponent of this mentality is Mas de Daumas Gassac, in the commune of Aniane. Although fairly under the radar in the larger wine world, the estate has been dubbed the Latour and the Lafite Rothschild of the region, and more widely as “the Grand Cru of Languedoc”. Whatever the declension, it has raised Languedoc’s viticultural game to a more competitive and keenly felt level. 

For 46 years, the property and its iconoclastic wines have been tearing up the rule book, highlighting the excellence of a terroir first revealed in 1972 by the estate’s creators, Véronique and Aimé Guibert. Although Aimé was a glovemaker by trade (he worked with both Roberto Cavalli and Pierre Cardin) and Véronique an ethnologist, they bought a 300-year-old farmhouse from the Daumas family, located in the unspoilt setting of the Gassac valley, named after the brook that cuts through it. The Guiberts asked eminent wine geologist Henri Enjalbert to analyse the land, whereupon ice-age scree (similar to the best soil in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or) was discovered. 

The couple began planting cabernet sauvignon in 1972, with the first vintage of Mas de Daumas Gassac released in 1978. Today, more than 38 red and 31 white vintages are ageing in the cellars of the estate. Those 1,000-year-old cellars were formed in the foundations of a Gallo-Roman mill. 

“We bring wine from the Languedoc, but with a style that is different,” says Basile Guibert, one of four brothers who have inherited the property from their father, who died in 2016 at the age of 91. “Languedoc brings volume to the rest of the world – and if you take Languedoc out of the wine world, a lot of people will have no access to it. Forty years ago, this association with volume was bad, but now, people in Languedoc are making excellent wine, and even the most prestigious names like Rothschild and Lafite all have something in Languedoc.”

One of the reasons for this is the ease with which wine is produced in the region. “It’s an amazing product because we have amazing sunshine and amazing weather,” says Guibert. As a result of history, relations between Spain, Italy and France, and Languedoc’s trading and export to them, the varietals of vines are broad. Daumas Gassac typically does unusual blends of chardonnay from Burgundy, sauvignon from the Loire/Bordeaux, viognier from the Rhône Valley, and grenache blanc as well, in wines that are often described as elegant and distinctive. 

Most interestingly, during the recent French election, an article in the press compared the candidates to the country’s wines – a natural comparison, given that after exports of military hardware and aeronautical supplies, wine is second on France’s list of global reach. (Luxury products such as fashion and must-have handbags come in third.) President-to-be Emmanuel Macron was likened to Daumas Gassac. But why? “Because they described him as being young and unusual, and of course, showing incredible promise and commitment.” In other words, just as France looked at Macron and saw a more purposeful future, Languedocians look to Daumas Gassac to upscale the region, or at least a part of it, to new vinous heights. 

Languedoc hasn’t seen the rush of Chinese investors typical in Bordeaux and Burgundy, but there have been a handful of acquisitions in the last three years. “One hectare in Bordeaux, for example, of the top appellation, might cost between one or two million euros; Pauillac, maybe two million euros,” says Guibert. And then the big reveal. “From Languedoc, it’s more like 10,000 to 20,000 euros. Investors can dream of this idyll,” says Guibert. 

Much of the winery’s prominence stems from Aimé Guibert’s close relationship with legendary French oenophile Émile Peynaud, with whose assistance the first vintage was produced in 1978. “Émile Peynaud took it upon himself to advise Daumas Gassac, but on two conditions,” recalls Guibert. “The first: ‘I will never be paid’, he said. The second: ‘I will never come to your estate – don’t bother me, but you can call me any night after 9pm.’” 

Six months, later the two had become good friends, and Peynaud visited the estate two or three times per year. Such provenance has seen the likes of Jack Ma and Steve Jobs visiting, too. But why did Peynaud, luminary of French viticulture, choose to align with a cabernet sauvignon producer in the Languedoc? Guibert explains: “Peynaud said he’d been winemaking for Grand Cru all his life, but that he’d never taken part in the birth of a Grand Cru. ‘With Daumas Gassac, I had that chance,’ he said.”

Lovely Libations

August 29, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Novel Surprise

The Old Man cocktail bar, inspired by all things Hemingway, is a safe haven for those who, like the famed novelist, hate sugary drinks (we’re looking at you, mojito). Asian elements are emphasised in Farewell to Arms, a tropical concoction that combines butterfat-washed gin, dry vermouth sous-vide nori and salted Pernod, served with onion pearl and nori dust. It’s intense, yet somehow also subtle and elegant.

The Old Man, 37 Aberdeen Street, Central

New Pal

In his 1751 print Gin Lane, the English painter William Hogarth promulgated a cautionary, almost apocalyptic vision of the ills of gin. The spirit’s image changed dramatically in the 1800s, though, when British officers in India began adding it to their anti-malarial, quinine-laced tonic water along with a little sugar and lime – thus creating the world’s most refreshing and healthy highball. The bar Artesian mixes up some of the finest gin and tonics ever seen, using dozens of the world’s best tipples and garnishes to die for. 

Artesian, The Langham Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Let’s Get Cray 

August 15, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

There’s a shining star in China’s hot summers and no one can deny its popularity. It’s spicy, crispy and tasty – and its name is crayfish. These freshwater crustaceans aren’t just delicious; intriguingly, they’re also ideal for modern communication. Chen Xiaoqing, the director of food documentary series A Bite of China, says that crayfish is the best option for talking with a group of friends, because everyone has to wear plastic gloves to keep their hands from getting oily, so they can’t pick up their phone easily. Though it’s unclear if crayfish were endemic to China hundreds of millions of years ago, or if they originated from either North America or Sweden, they disappeared for millennia. However, the invasive species returned to the region in the 1920s as Japan imported them and later introduced them to Nanjing; from that point, crayfish began its conquering course on Chinese dinner tables.

Tea Power

August 1, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

There’s a long queue forming outside a newly opened drinks store in Beijing, but it isn’t Starbucks, which has been hugely popular among the locals for quite a while now. It’s Chinese tea-beverage company Nayuki, which has just opened a branch there.

Launched in November 2015, Nayuki is headquartered in Shenzhen and has expanded rapidly. In less than three years, it’s come to operate almost 80 stores across 13 cities in China. Nayuki has become a fashionable statement for young people, too, but why? Well, its tasty tea beverages, for one; also its cups, which feature a mouth that’s specially designed to perfectly fit the lips; and its freshly baked bread, which is high in fibre and low in fat. And unlike many competitors that cut corners, Nayuki insists on the highest-quality tea and fresh fruits according to the seasons. 

Nayuki’s beautiful interior decor, which makes it appear like a luxury shop, is also a major draw. “When it comes to shop design, we work with different designers, artists and some influential KOLs [key opinion leaders],” explains Peng Xin, Nayuki’s co-founder. “We want to develop Nayuki in a fashionable and artistic way. And we have recently been collaborating with Estée Lauder and Sulwhasoo.” 

The brand actually originates from a love story. Nayuki’s two founders first met on a blind date and Peng told Zhao Lin, a businessman with more than ten years of experience in the food industry, about her entrepreneurial plans. It wasn’t strictly business, of course – there was a happily-ever-after, as they fell in love at first sight and got married after three months. 

In terms of placement, Nayuki knows its main target – almost every one of the brand’s stores is located near a Starbucks. “All Nayuki shops’ monthly sales figures have surpassed those of Starbucks,” says Peng. “Nayuki pursues a bright, relaxing, fashionable lifestyle, which is far from Starbucks, whose main theme is dark and business-like.” 

In March, Nayuki finished its series A financing and was estimated at more than RMB 6 billion, placing it among the highest-valued tea brands in China. After its huge success there, Nayuki has officially begun its global expansion strategy, with a Singapore opening via a joint venture with BreadTalk in the second half of this year. “Singapore is an important market,” says Peng. “We chose Singapore to learn how to meet international standards – and then we can go global.”

Tasty, Treats

August 1, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Xuegaowu (雪糕屋アイスキャンデー屋) 

A thick, flavoured ice cream with a popsicle on top – can you think of a better way to enjoy the summertime? Taiwan’s Xuegaowu (“Ice Cream House”) has released its luxury showstopper for the hot weather. Add some tasty powder and chocolate sauce for even more flavour.

Bistopping

If you like ice cream decorated with little stars, crowns and all kinds of lovely shapes, Korea’s Bistopping is a must. The handmade corn cones and chocolate chips are definitely worth a try. Taking photos of the treats in the shop before enjoying them is a major attraction for trendy Korean youth.

Wuxie (無邪)

Can you imagine tasting 11 hot summer items in just one bottle? Chinese brand Wuxie’s new ice cream product, Wuxie 11, consists of matcha, chestnut, blueberry, strawberry, cakes, corn crisps, chocolate and more. One bite of Wuxie and summer will arrive in your mouth. 

Mango Kulfi

A mango with ice cream inside – what a pleasant surprise! Indian street vendors cut into the core and fill the fruit with ice cream for this classic dessert that’s definitely a great choice as you saunter through the hot streets.

In Fizzing Colour 

July 18, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Chef Alberto Hernández of Aqua shows his true colours this summer, crafting three vivid dishes to pair with Veuve Clicquot’s signature Yellow Label, Extra Brut Extra Old and Rosé cuvées for a one-of-a-kind “Colorama” menu.

For the first course – Tribute to Yellow Label – the Spanish master captures the tasting notes of the champagne and pairs it with a starter of Japanese oyster and scallop ceviche. Next up, the culinary artist paints salmon, king prawn and osetra caviar onto a stroke of squid ink for an elegant pairing with the classic Extra Brut Extra Old. 

Last but not least, for the Rosé, the maestro brings the menu to a dazzling conclusion with a cloud cheesecake framed by pink rainbow sauces, inviting diners to indulge their artistic tastes and link the colours of the palette to those of the palate. Switch your taste buds from black-and-white to colour this summer. 

Espresso Expressivity

July 18, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

Form and Function

July 4, 2018 / by Howard Elias

The holy grail for appliance makers is to come up with one thing that will replace every other device in your kitchen. The microwave oven was supposed to cause us to ditch our traditional ovens, but that didn’t happen. The food processor was supposed to cause us to toss our handheld slicers and graters in the rubbish bin; that never happened, either. In most cases, these new kitchen appliances merely supplant the old ones, but if they’re really good, they may replace one or two others in the process. Here are some internet-connected kitchen appliances that are being touted as the next revolution in cooking – you can decide for yourself.

Thermomix TM5

Friends of mine who bought this a year ago raved about how wonderful it was and how it made amazing soups so easily. But now they never talk about it. Are they tired of eating soup or have they all moved on to the next trendy appliance? To be fair, the Thermomix does more than just make soup. It has 12 functions including weighing, chopping, whisking, steaming, kneading and grinding. German company Vorwerk has upped its game with something called the Cook-Key – a dongle-like device that plugs into the side of the TM5, connecting to the internet and providing access to Cookidoo, Vorwerk’s online recipe platform for guided cooking. There is a catch; access to the Cookidoo recipes is free for a trial period, then it’s by annual subscription. For what the TM5 costs, you’d think it would include a free lifetime subscription.

Instant Pot Smart

When I was a child, my mother would use her heavy cast-iron pressure cooker to prepare all kinds of meat dinners for the family in a hurry. I was terrified of the thing, though, with its hissing steam vent. Well, some engineers in Canada have now developed the next generation of pressurised cooking. The Instant Pot Smart is a fully programmable appliance that combines the benefits of a pressure cooker, slow cooker, rice cooker, porridge maker, steamer, yoghurt maker, sauté pan, food warmer and more. The appliance cuts cooking times by 50% to 80%, using up to 70% less energy. Its patent-pending technology also lets you program complex cooking steps and execute them directly from your mobile device. If anything is going to cure me of my pressurecookerphobia, this is it.   

Ms Yeah’s Office

July 4, 2018 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

One of the hottest food vloggers (video bloggers) in China right now, 24-year-old Chengdu native Ms Yeah (aka Xiao Ye) has a whopping four million fans on Weibo and two million subscribers on YouTube. There’s not really anyone else doing anything similar – Ms Yeah is the master of using common office equipment (such as water dispensers, electric kettles, flower pots and even a computer’s CPU) to cook meals that very often turn out to be mouth-watering feasts, shared and finished quickly by the entire office. 

Ms Yeah likes to introduce local dishes in her videos, especially the spicy Sichuan style with which she’s most familiar. In one popular episode,“Chengdu chuan chuan xiang”, she cooks skewers (which usually require a large, hot surface) in an electric kettle. In another, “Tofu Feast”, she makes tofu custard from raw soybeans, served in bowls with chopped peppers, chilli oil and peanuts – a traditional breakfast or snack in Sichuan cuisine. Besides these, she’s also cooked crawfish in a popcorn popper, steamed buns with a garment steamer and made mooncakes from scratch with a few simple supplies at her office desk. 

Ms Yeah studied video editing and directing in university. Her first video, published in early 2017, was inspired by one of her male colleagues, whom she discovered shirtless in the office using an electric iron. That gave her a strange idea to use the iron to grill beef – and it worked.