The Moncler Mogul

May 27, 2016 / by Zhang Mengyi

You took over Moncler in 2003 when it had only one jacket. Now it’s an international fashion statement. How has Moncler evolved since you awakened this sleeping brand?

We’ve done a lot in the last 13 years, but we still have a lot to do. I want to make the jackets even lighter, keeping the perfect balance between performance and style. I really do not like the term fashion, where everything is related to trends and is so seasonal. Fashion, for me, is first of all creativity and consistency in creating long-lasting, quality products. 

You started your own label, New England, before you bought Moncler. From that experience, what helped you most when you came on board?

I have always been very curious and very attracted by what surrounds me. When I founded New England, I not only worked on the creative side, but I also approached all the aspects related to the business, too. I’ve learned a lot since then – and experience gave me the chance to do exactly what I aimed to do.

The brand delved deeper into fashion territory with the launch of Moncler Gamme Rouge in 2006, Moncler Gamme Bleu in 2009 and Moncler Grenoble in 2010. You’ve presented your collections at various fashion weeks. But you keep saying that Moncler is not keen to be in the fashion system. 

It’s true – I always say, “We have to survive fashion.” I want to create value starting with the product; that, to me, is the most important topic. The future of a company, in my opinion, is linked to the knowledge and the perception of the brand. It could happen that you have a rise, in terms of a turnaround, but it’s more important to have the growth of knowledge. People only knew Moncler as a puffy jacket – until they came to the point where they found the brand’s real value, recognisable as a quality choice. That’s the kind of investment that assures a strong base for tangible growth.

Did you have an overall plan to make Moncler a globally recognised brand when you first took over?

The great heritage and history of Moncler is absolutely unique. It’s rare to find a brand with deep roots in tradition. The goal was to bring it into the future, starting from its origins. Our aim was to roll out a “global down-jacket strategy” all over the world. It was very important to communicate that Moncler is a jacket for all occasions. The brand’s evolution has become urban, never renouncing the sporty spirit that is always present in Moncler’s soul. This is what we really wanted from the beginning of this fantastic adventure, starting with a great product and an outstanding history.

You’ve chosen avant-garde designers, including Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne, to interpret the Moncler brand. What was your vision when you decided to work with them?

In all these collaborations, creativity can shine through different interpretations of the Moncler DNA. Everyone I work with – whether a designer, an artist or a photographer – brings his vision or personal touch. But everybody has to work with one central idea in mind and use one mutual language: the Moncler world. With Moncler Gamme Rouge and Moncler Gamme Bleu, I wanted to combine the Moncler universe and its sport origins with the sensibilities of different designers. I wanted to complete the practicality of the classic Moncler down jacket with the sophisticated eclecticism of more precious elements. I think Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne are incredibly talented designers, able to combine a sensibility to couture and tailoring with a good business response; that is exactly what I was looking to create. I believe one of the key reasons for Moncler’s success is the brand’s openness to diverse interpretations.

Moncler is rapidly expanding, with more than 180 stores worldwide. Where are you headed in 2016?

Moncler opened 27 new points of sale during 2015 in some of the most famous international luxury retail locations, including the flagship Tokyo store in Ginza as well as the first stores in two new markets: Macau and Singapore. Our eyes are now on the consolidation of the retail presence in North America, where in the second part of the year, we will be reinforcing our New York presence by opening a second boutique.

Where do you see Moncler developing in Asia over the next five years?

We have done a lot, but as always we want to do more and do it even better. With my team, we are working on important long-term projects all over the world. We strongly believe the Chinese market will continue to be important for us, also with a specific focus on the e-commerce segment. We want to make sure our online presence will even meet the needs of the most demanding clients. 

When we launched our Chinese e-commerce platform, it represented a further phase of expansion in the market. Moncler has maintained a presence there since 2009, when the first Shanghai boutique was inaugurated. Today, our e-boutique must offer a first-rate shopping experience to all customers. And to do so, we are constantly very attentive to the web environment and working with professional teams that help us make sure our customers perceive it to be appropriately secure. In the next year, we also plan to rethink and restructure the entire product offering,
and propose ad hoc content to our Chinese customers, designed to answer specific local needs.

You got your first Moncler jacket when you were 14. What was that like?

I was born in Como, very close to the border with Switzerland. In the winter, when you woke up at seven o’clock in the morning, it was freezing cold and slightly icy outside, and you had to ride a bike to get to school – well, the only thing you dreamed of was something that could keep you warm! So I got a Moncler jacket, at that time very popular among youngsters, and I still remember that first morning I wore it. I felt so comfortable, since I could fight the cold. Since then, Moncler has been close to my heart.

What’s your favourite Moncler item?

I love all the jackets – among them is a lightweight matte-blue down jacket, part of the Moncler Longue Saison collection. It is a model we launched in 2008 and has since become our iconic piece, wearable even in warm weather.