Nostalgic Noms: Loi Lo

September 29, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

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Say Cheese

August 25, 2017 / by Louis-Marie Delmas

For several years, a number of French cheesemakers have been taking advantage of an efficient logistics network, exporting their raw milk products to meet the growing demand from restaurants and local consumers. Now, two of these fromagers-affineurs have taken the pioneering step of ripening their cheeses right here in Hong Kong. Jérémy Evrard (of the soon-to-open J’s Bar Bistro at the Royal Garden Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui) and Thierry Rochas Dupérier (La Fromagerie in Central) select cheeses from small-scale European producers, bring them to the city and work their magic to turn them into matured masterpieces. Here, each man tells us what he would put on his ideal cheese platter for six people as summer winds down. 

Valley Views

June 30, 2017 / by Simon Field

above illustration: ©Berry Bros & Rudd

The wines of 2015 are a gold-plated triumph for both ends of the Rhône Valley. Early plaudits favoured the north and reds over whites, but the empirical evidence has underlined a rare uniformity of excellence. The reds perhaps prevailed, but only because of a climate that was almost too benevolent and which, on occasion, undermined acidity levels (in Viognier, for example). This vintage is a rare coincidence of quality and quantity.

Indeed, despite the relatively small berries and impressively thick skins, the superb finesse of the tannins really marks out this vintage. When asked to compare, vignerons in the south cited 2007 and 2010, while in the north, the most common comparisons were 2009 and 2010, with the consensus praising a style somewhere in the middle. 

For the wines of the south, what one needs to avoid is too much of a good thing – too much sun and the danger of desiccated and sunburnt fruit, with alcohol levels creeping over 15 degrees and natural acidity that’s far too low. Such indulgence was avoided in 2015 as a result of two natural phenomena, both of which are often absent: first, the relatively wet spring, which topped up the water table; and, second, the unusually cool nights in the hottest part of the year, which delayed the process just enough to ensure physiological ripeness and sugar levels that weren’t excessive.

The heat was actually more pronounced earlier in the summer, with late June and early July being particularly scorching, contributing to an average mean temperature over the total growing season that was higher even than 2003. However, the mitigating factors rehearsed above were sufficiently significant to change the profile of the 2015 vintage, thus ensuring a lengthy and – to borrow a word much in currency with the vignerons when describing 2015 – “easy” season.

Easy is as easy does, and few things are, in reality, that simple in modern winemaking. The philosophy of so-called “minimal intervention” is very hard to achieve, after all – like drawing a perfect circle, free-hand. What looked to be a late year was soon revised towards an early picking date and then, with the relatively mild August, a “normal” harvest date. The early whites were picked in the middle of September and the late grapes, significantly mourvèdre, were all brought in by the end of the first week of October.

The Joys of Rosé

June 30, 2017 / by Pierre Godeau

Is rosé really the wine of summer? 

Definitely. Rosés are wines for the sun-filled weekends and summer holidays. But people are gradually realising that they’re a pleasure to drink all year round.

Are there different types of rosé? Which varietals are most commonly used?

There are numerous types of rosé. In France, Provence is the best-known region, with varietals like cinsault, rolle, grenache and syrah. But there are also rosés made from pinot, cabernet sauvignon and other types of grapes. 

Are there outstanding rosés in the same way that there are for reds and whites? What are the most famous rosé wines?

The quality of the Provence rosés has improved in the past few years, so they’ve acquired a reputation for excellence. In terms of name recognition, they dominate this market today.

Are rosés good wines for laying down in a cellar? 

I don’t think rosés are made for that. Even so, everyone has come across a bottle that they had more or less forgotten about – and then greatly enjoyed drinking it. 

How do you choose a rosé? How is a quality rosé recognised?

That’s a difficult question. Rosés aren’t ranked the way grands crus are. You buy a rosé; it’s not that expensive; you drink it and find out if you like it. If you don’t, then you buy a different one next time.

As an oenologist, do you often create rosé wines for the estates you work with? 

Of course – rosés are in fashion, and besides that, I drink them myself. 

What’s special about a Bordeaux rosé and how is it different from a clairet?

Rosés used to be the byproducts of red wine production in Bordeaux. Now rosés are crafted – and they have become very good. Clairet has existed for a long time in Bordeaux – the historical legacy of the English presence in Aquitaine. Clairet de Quinsac is an institution.

Do the Chinese produce rosé? 

They have only just started to; I don’t have any good examples of Chinese rosé. But the varietals and the climate are genuinely favourable to producing rosé. 

What foods does rosé go well with?   

It goes well with almost all cuisines – that’s its great advantage. 

Shake it Up

June 30, 2017 / by China Daily Lifestyle Premium

In the beloved TV series Sex and the City, protagonist Carrie Bradshaw famously paid tribute to her love of New York City and the Cosmopolitan cocktail. This summer, do her one better and try it yourself – it’s easy to look like a cocktail pro with our picks below. 

You Scream, I Scream… Ice Cream!

June 30, 2017 / by Wang Yuke

Tezukuri no Mise

Particularly popular with youngsters and with queues a common sight, Tezukuri no Mise is known for its low prices and hefty serving sizes. The scoop is satisfyingly big at no more than HK$20, and the texture and taste are almost as good as premium ice creams, if you aren’t a hyper-critical connoisseur. The Japanese green tea, black sesame and chocolate chip flavours are recommended. You can also venture to try the tofu flavour, which could be an acquired taste for some – but we’d guess you’ll take to this soy milk-like treat. 

Where to eat: 

Numerous branches, including 11/F, Langham Place, 8 Argyle Street, Mong Kok

Passion by Gerard Dubois 

You’ll be naturally drawn in by the cabinet display of colourful gelato at Passion by Gerard Dubois. The numerous flavour choices include some rare ones, such as Toblerone chocolate, Snickers candy bar and avocado. For those struggling to choose, the hazelnut and cookie flavours are the go-to options. The former has a strong fragrance of hazelnuts, which tastes natural and not artificial, while the latter will please you with its crunches of Oreo cookie crumbs generously embedded within.  

Where to eat: 

Numerous branches, including Shop G12, G/F, Lee Garden One, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay

2/3 Dolci

The sea salt caramel ice cream offered by 2/3 Dolci may bring you to the shocking realisation that ice cream can be salty – and that the saltiness makes the ice cream even creamier. The caramel is rich and creamy, while the salty note running through the first bite to the finish intensifies the flavours, making the scoop that much more buttery. You’ll be reminded of lounging on the beach and breathing in the briny air. 

Where to eat: 

Shop 110, L1, Pacific Place, Admiralty

Yo Mama

If you dread putting extra fat on your waistline but still want a chilly fix, nothing’s better than yoghurt ice cream or frozen yoghurt. You can create your own yoghurt tub by choosing the size, flavours and toppings. Dozens of toppings are available, including fresh fruit slices; colourful embellishments such as gummy bears, fruity poppers and mochi; and crunchy treats such as nuts, candied cereals and chocolate M&Ms. The iced yoghurt is light and refreshing, quenching your thirst as well as your craving for dessert. 

Where to eat: 

Numerous branches, including Shop 1061, IFC Mall, Podium Level 1, Central

Summer Cuisine

May 26, 2017 / by Louis-Marie Delmas

What summer ingredients do you use most? 

Courgettes and tomatoes. You can deep-fry flowering courgettes in batter, bake, sauté, purée, chop them in a salad with mint – so many possible combinations. Likewise, there are so many things you can do with tomatoes: mousses, jellies, cold in a salad or cooked. 

What’s today’s recipe? 

Razor clams and cockles. You can serve this as a light first course or before dinner with drinks – it goes well with a glass of rosé, for example.

Ingredients

Razor clams and cockles on a leaf of soy-lime jelly

For the jelly:

20cl sweet soy sauce, 1 unwaxed lime, 2g agar-agar

For the shellfish topping:

1kg cockles, 1kg razor clams

For assembly and garnish:

1 unwaxed orange, 5cl olive oil, 150g coarse salt, a few sprigs of chervil and Thai basil, dill

Recipe

To make the jelly

Put the soy sauce, 5cl of water, the zest of the lime and half of its juice in a saucepan. Add the agar-agar. Bring to a boil over low heat, whisking. Pour the hot jelly onto a tray lined with cling film, spreading it to a thickness of about 2mm. Refrigerate. 

To make the shellfish topping

Clean the cockles in several changes of cold water. Heat a pot (no oil) and arrange the cockles in it. Allow them to open naturally, stirring with a spoon. Spread out on a tray, remove the flesh and refrigerate. Do the same with the razor clams, keeping only the firm white flesh. Save 12 shells after cleaning them to remove all grit and sand. 

To assemble

Cut the soy-lime jelly into strips the same size as the razor clam shells and line each shell with a strip of jelly. On each shell, delicately alternate pieces of razor clam meat and cockle meat, covering the shell completely. Grate the orange zest into the olive oil and garnish each assembled razor clam with a few drops. Decorate each one with the sprigs of chervil and basil, and add a generous grinding of pepper.

Dampen the coarse salt with a little water, add a bit of chopped dill and cut out four little round bases (diameter approximately the length of a razor clam shell). Place three of the assembled razor clams on each base. Chill and serve.

New World Order

above illustration: © : ©Berry Bros & Rudd

May 26, 2017 / by Catriona Felstead

There was a time when the prospect of attending a trade tasting of Australian wines mightn’t have gladdened the hearts of those in the wine trade. Despite dominating mass-market, high-volume sales in the UK for a number of years, it’s fair to say that Australia has struggled with the image of its premium wines. That’s not to say that there was anything wrong with them at all; rather, Australia has always been at the forefront of technically correct, scientifically advantaged wines. However, what was lacking was excitement.

Weighed down by memories of the heavily oaked chardonnays of the past, consumers’ thoughts weren’t of Australian white wines at the premium level. Sommeliers – the movers and shakers of many local wine trends – have seen such chardonnays veer completely to the other extreme: lean and austere wines, which are equally unpalatable. Red wines were often rich and thick in style, the joke being that one would need a knife and fork to tackle them. While this appealed to some, many in the wine trade have historically found these styles just a bit too predictable to shout about.

Fortunately, times are a-changing and Australia is, at last, becoming cool again. There have always been some maverick winemakers, but a new generation is coming through that’s focusing this natural flair into some exceptionally well-made yet truly interesting wines. 

The range of styles is vast. This spans seriously delicate, elegant and complex (almost old-world) pinot noir to exciting blends with Italian, Spanish and Portugese varietals – including tempranillo (famously found in Rioja), touriga nacional (the backbone of high-quality port) and even rosé made from the obscure bastardo variety (apologies for any offence caused, but that is actually the name of the grape).

Bubbling Over with Joy

April 28, 2017 / by Pierre Godeau

Why did you wait so long to create this cuvée, and what distinguishes this blanc de blancs from its famous competitor Ruinart, made by the LVMH group, or from those made by the champagnes de vignerons?

It’s my responsibility to create something consistent with Perrier-Jouët without adversely affecting existing cuvées. As chardonnay is the rarest and most expensive champagne grape, I had to find new sources in small villages. I started working on this cuvée five years ago, not wanting to copy any other champagne house while remaining faithful to the Perrier-Jouët style as I have been doing for 34 years. 

This cuvée is elegant and sophisticated, with a springtime floral aspect of delicate white blossoms like elderflower, acacia and honeysuckle that give off a subtle, lingering fragrance. It has fine bubbles from three years in the cellar and a pleasing, long finish that makes you want to pour another glass. There are some lovely blanc de blancs among the champagnes de vignerons, but the approach is very fragmented and the quantities are small.

What’s the right way to remove the cork from a champagne bottle and what’s the ideal temperature at which to serve it? 

To open a bottle, tilt it slightly and grasp the cork while turning the bottle to release the cork. You have to let the gas gently push the cork out while maintaining control. Opened correctly, the champagne doesn’t make a big “pop” but just a little “fizz” as a small amount of gas escapes. 

Then, you should taste it to make sure it’s at the right temperature – there’s nothing worse than serving champagne too cold. The ideal temperature is between 8 and 12 degrees. Preferably, you should fill the flute half-full when you open the bottle and then add more to cool the wine down again – don’t forget that champagne is a wine.